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Unread 04-13-2015, 10:39 AM   #1
niero
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Headliner: Sealant for fiberglass

Short version: Is there a tough sealant I could spray/paint on the fiberglass headliner?
Is there a good heat insulation spray for bare metal ceiling?


Get comfy, this is a little long-winded.

Long version:
This is after I remove old fabric and glue foam, of course.
I've spent around 4 hours reading a lot of threads about the sagging headliner issues, the re-covering vs. bare headboard discussions, and researching bedliner and rubber materials.

Many people advocate getting new fabric, then using a crapton of glue to make sure is holds against hot summers. Others put spray on bedliner onto the cleaned fiberglass board, w/o adding fabric. I really like that look, and the fact that you don't have to be concerned if the glue will hold in summer heat.

A few people that used spray on bedliner have said they love it, but the fiberglass does still come off if brushed or bumped, even w/ the bedliner.
I'd like to avoid that by completely sealing the board.
The spray on rubberized coatings are supposed to help w/ heat and sound insulation.


Considerations
1. Rubber spray will be heavier. Would it work to just glue the headliner board onto the metal ceiling itself?

2. If I completely remove the headliner, are there any rubber coating products for the bare metal ceiling to help with heat insulation? Winter easily gets down to -20 F here, plus windchill.

I've read through at least the first 3-4 pages of search results when searching "sagging headliner".
Any help would be most appreciated.

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Unread 04-13-2015, 02:15 PM   #2
Cbob4
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Resin-coat it. Either polyester or vinylester resin. I'm in the boat business. Since you don't need water intrusion resistance, go with the cheaper polyester. Available at Wally World, HD, Lowes, any auto parts tore...even marinas!!
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Unread 04-13-2015, 04:33 PM   #3
coralman
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Gassing from either method might be a problem in the closed cab,at least in the shortrun.
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Unread 04-13-2015, 06:41 PM   #4
Cbob4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Gassing from either method might be a problem in the closed cab,at least in the shortrun.
Once it kicks off, no probs with resin, coral. Remember, lots of boats have cabins...
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Unread 04-14-2015, 08:10 AM   #5
niero
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Awesome. Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll try the polyester resin. I'm sure I'll have to air it out a lot, but hopefully it's not too bad.

Do you have a ballpark guess on how much it takes? Is it around the 1 or 2 quarts range, or a gallon or more?

Thanks again.
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Unread 04-14-2015, 09:32 AM   #6
Cbob4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niero View Post
Awesome. Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll try the polyester resin. I'm sure I'll have to air it out a lot, but hopefully it's not too bad.

Do you have a ballpark guess on how much it takes? Is it around the 1 or 2 quarts range, or a gallon or more?

Thanks again.
A quart should do it. Just be careful not to kick it hot (MEKP catylist), kinda sucks when your resin starts kicking and you've only used 1/2 the batch. I typically mix 1 cup at a time. Do NOT catylize the whole quart!!
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Unread 04-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #7
niero
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Thanks, Cbob4.
I don't know a thing about resins. What do you mean by MEKP catalyst, or that it "kicks off?"

Is this resin pretty thick?
If I do it, I'm going to lay down painter's plastic and do it with the headliner still mounted in the Jeep. This will be much more difficult, but a few have had electrical shorts/fuse problems where Jeep won't start after re-installing headliners. I don't know anything about troubleshooting electrical issues, and it's my daily driver.

I figure if have enough plastic taped up around the windows, goggles and a mask, I should be okay.
How long does each coat take to dry?
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Unread 04-14-2015, 11:27 AM   #8
Cbob4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niero View Post
Thanks, Cbob4.
I don't know a thing about resins. What do you mean by MEKP catalyst, or that it "kicks off?"

Is this resin pretty thick?
If I do it, I'm going to lay down painter's plastic and do it with the headliner still mounted in the Jeep. This will be much more difficult, but a few have had electrical shorts/fuse problems where Jeep won't start after re-installing headliners. I don't know anything about troubleshooting electrical issues, and it's my daily driver.

I figure if have enough plastic taped up around the windows, goggles and a mask, I should be okay.
How long does each coat take to dry?
The resin is fairly thick, but not glue-like...so have drop cloths covering your interior. MEKP (methy ethyl ketone peroxide) is the catylist...what makes it cure. "Kicking off" is our term for curing. The mix ratios (amount of catylist per amount of resin) will be on the can. The MEKP comes with the resin, you don't have to buy it separately. Wally World (in the automotive section) has it around $13/qt.

Cure time in warm weather is around 15-20 minutes. I'd use a cheap 2" chip brush to apply...
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Unread 04-14-2015, 12:56 PM   #9
MrRoundel
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I've made quite a few surfboards over the years and worked with polyester resins. I agree with Cbob4 on the "off-gassing". It can be brutal before the resin hardens, but once it does, the smell is virtually gone. If you have a respirator, it's probably not a bad idea to wear it while you work with it. You can also get UV curing resin today. Instead of catalyst, it cures with UV light, which is supplied by natural sunlight or artificial light. Since you don't need to mess with any fiberglass cloth saturation, wrapping, etc., the standard is probably OK. The more catalyst you add, the fast it kicks. You don't want it going off when you're halfway done. The warmer the ambient temperature, the faster it cures as well. Keep it thin. You don't need very much to do what you want to do with it., and I don't think you want it very heavy. Good luck.
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Unread 04-14-2015, 01:00 PM   #10
Cbob4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoundel View Post
You don't want it going off when you're halfway done.
Because that will piss you off. Money down the toidy...
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