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-   -   Has anyone has the waterpump leak behind the pulley? (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/has-anyone-has-waterpump-leak-behind-pulley-1543727/)

PolkaPower 07-01-2013 05:38 PM

Has anyone has the waterpump leak behind the pulley?
 
It's not making any kind of noise but there is a tiny drip I saw with a mirror. I checked the timing cover and it's dry.

I saw some crusted stuff under the pulley on the bottom and the drop I saw was further back under the pump. Think it's leaking out of the hole and the pulley is throwing it around?

Either way it looks like a new pump is in order.

5-90 07-01-2013 05:51 PM

The shaft seals are leaking, there's a "weep hole" in the housing snout to tell you that it's happening.

1) Flush the system.
2) Drain
3) Replace water pump & belt (if the old belt is in good condition, throw it in your "road kit" as a backup)
4) Refill with fresh coolant.

Yes, you should do a flush FIRST - since you'll have to drain the system anyhow, now's as good a time as any.

PolkaPower 07-01-2013 06:11 PM

Kolak has a great hook up with a Crown replacement I'll be getting.

I was looking into a flowkooler but it's runs at the notch below 210 at it's hottest and probably too cold in the winter so not going with that.

Too bad all of the coolant in there is only several months old but either way I don't want any crap getting into the new pump. The belt is a Dayco Poly Cog and still looks like new.

papitt 07-03-2013 08:40 PM

Isn't your Jeep a V8 . Mine is a 6 cyl an I believe I have a W/P leaking also. I was going to say give me some instructions . But I sure your a v8 man. Thanks

dnuccio 07-03-2013 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papitt (Post 15638668)
Isn't your Jeep a V8 . Mine is a 6 cyl an I believe I have a W/P leaking also. I was going to say give me some instructions . But I sure your a v8 man. Thanks

polka has a niner

5-90 07-03-2013 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papitt (Post 15638668)
Isn't your Jeep a V8 . Mine is a 6 cyl an I believe I have a W/P leaking also. I was going to say give me some instructions . But I sure your a v8 man. Thanks

A water pump replacement is a water pump replacement, and the weep hole in the housing snout is standard (I've seen it for at least the last 30 years, myself.)

Potential pitfalls:
- Replace any screws you remove from the water pump. They're exposed to coolant, and will start rusting. Replacing them is cheap insurance. I prefer to use a copper alloy whenever possible (brass or bronze,) CRES (Corrosion RESistant alloy steel - "Stainless") is also acceptable. If you must use carbon steel, I recomment SAE5 instead of SAE8 (a bit less sensitive to corrosion,) and coat the screw with RTV before installation (which also doubles as a mild threadlocker.)
- The little nipple that the heater hose attaches to will likely be corroded. Threading is typically 3/8" NPT - go to the hardware store, plumbing section, and get a short (4" or so) BRASS 3/8" pipe nipple. Cut the threads off of one end and debur the cut. Slip enough hose over it so that you can apply TWO band clamps, there should be a minimum of 1/4" between the clamps and 1/4" between the edge of the clamp band and the bitter end of the pipe nipple (inside) or hose (outside.) This is to make up for the lack of a "bead" on the pipe nipple. Brass will last MUCH longer!
- On the 6-242, there's a heater hose that is moulded to a right angle to get down to the water pump - by selecting a nipple long enough, a 90* elbow, and a short nipple with the threads cut off of one end, you can eliminate having to find this moulded hose. I don't recall the length, and I did it on RENIX anyhow, but the idea applies. Clamp as previous.
- The use of a NEW band clamp is always recommended. If you remove a band clamp, throw it in your "spares" box/road kit for "just in case," but cheap insurance is always good.

If you don't have a manual, GET ONE. An FSM (Factory Service Manual) is best - careful shopping & bidding can usually net you on on eBay for less than $20. If you're in a hurry, go down to the local and pick up a Chilton's - but don't bother with a Haynes. (If you get a Chilton's, your ultimate goal is still to find an FSM...)

AVR2 07-04-2013 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5-90 (Post 15639251)
If you don't have a manual, GET ONE. An FSM (Factory Service Manual) is best - careful shopping & bidding can usually net you on on eBay for less than $20. If you're in a hurry, go down to the local and pick up a Chilton's

If you're in a hurry, just Google - plenty of sites selling PDFs of the FSMs for instant download. You might even find the one you want for free.

Quote:

but don't bother with a Haynes
I've got the FSM and Haynes, and I've flipped through the Chilton. Unless I've missed something, I can't see why you'd recommend the Chilton over the Haynes, they both look pretty much the same. In any event, I find that using the FSM in conjuction with Haynes and the forum is the best approach, since Haynes has photos that can often be more useful than the diagrams in the FSM.

PolkaPower 07-04-2013 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5-90 (Post 15639251)
A water pump replacement is a water pump replacement, and the weep hole in the housing snout is standard (I've seen it for at least the last 30 years, myself.)

Potential pitfalls:
- Replace any screws you remove from the water pump. They're exposed to coolant, and will start rusting. Replacing them is cheap insurance. I prefer to use a copper alloy whenever possible (brass or bronze,) CRES (Corrosion RESistant alloy steel - "Stainless") is also acceptable. If you must use carbon steel, I recomment SAE5 instead of SAE8 (a bit less sensitive to corrosion,) and coat the screw with RTV before installation (which also doubles as a mild threadlocker.)
- The little nipple that the heater hose attaches to will likely be corroded. Threading is typically 3/8" NPT - go to the hardware store, plumbing section, and get a short (4" or so) BRASS 3/8" pipe nipple. Cut the threads off of one end and debur the cut. Slip enough hose over it so that you can apply TWO band clamps, there should be a minimum of 1/4" between the clamps and 1/4" between the edge of the clamp band and the bitter end of the pipe nipple (inside) or hose (outside.) This is to make up for the lack of a "bead" on the pipe nipple. Brass will last MUCH longer!
- On the 6-242, there's a heater hose that is moulded to a right angle to get down to the water pump - by selecting a nipple long enough, a 90* elbow, and a short nipple with the threads cut off of one end, you can eliminate having to find this moulded hose. I don't recall the length, and I did it on RENIX anyhow, but the idea applies. Clamp as previous.
- The use of a NEW band clamp is always recommended. If you remove a band clamp, throw it in your "spares" box/road kit for "just in case," but cheap insurance is always good.

If you don't have a manual, GET ONE. An FSM (Factory Service Manual) is best - careful shopping & bidding can usually net you on on eBay for less than $20. If you're in a hurry, go down to the local and pick up a Chilton's - but don't bother with a Haynes. (If you get a Chilton's, your ultimate goal is still to find an FSM...)

Great advice:thumbsup: I have a PDF manual that is pretty comprehensive. Letting it sit until we get back from vacation at the cabin. I was planning on taking the heep but it threatened me with failure so not worth the risk. It's due for a road trip soon. :tea:

exmilitary 07-04-2013 07:47 AM

Mine leaked behind the pully. Turns out it was the shaft seal.

papitt 07-04-2013 07:46 PM

Ok I got a new pump fro my 6 Banger this evening . But I'm waiting for the 5th to do the deed. Got grand kids here to night so we'll be trucking of to see the Town Fire Works.

kachink 07-07-2013 10:46 AM

I had a very similar situation and thought I was due for a new pump, but it turned out to be the bypass hose leaking and dripping down.

PolkaPower 07-07-2013 10:53 AM

Bypass hose is commonly overlooked. All of my hoses are new though. I replaced them when I did the plenum. Some creative angling with a mechanics mirror revealed the crusted coolant built up under and around the pulley.

papitt 07-07-2013 11:46 AM

OK we got ours changed yesterday .. We found what looked to be gasket issues with both W/P & Thermostat..
.. The water pump had been on long enough that it looked original but it was not due to the sealant around it. But on the under side of the W/P the gasket looked to be leaking it also had not been mounted flush to start out with . Then our Thermostat it too had a gasket surface that looked to be leaking just a tad. It's surface along the side it the bypass port looked to have leaked at some times.
... So scraped the gaskets surface then I use my DA DISK Sander with about 180 DApaper on it as you began to see shining surfaces across the face I feel I'm good to go.
.. When we refiled the radiator we filled it up replace with a new radiator caps . then put more water into the long bypass this should have got all the air out .. We cranked it up drove it for a while it ran about 180 .
.. NOW here's where I was worried about mine . As it sat there idling ok it looked like it was still bubbling air bubbles over into the Plastic over flow bottle. All I could do at this point was tell the family that has it borrowed . YOU KEEP a Very Close EYE on that radiator.
....
...........I hope that description of those gasket issues helps someone.


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