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Unread 07-22-2013, 04:34 PM   #31
newfieZJ
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: , Alberta
Posts: 6,453
Quote:
Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
would 500-550 be a good deal for a 5.2 with 112xxx miles on it?
$500 would be a decent price . Yeah , some might get a better deal , yet some will drool over this one . I'd want a $1000 for that all day .

Easy way to install an engine in a ZJ V8 is without the intake on . I had no issues getting to anything on mine that way to remove it , or later install . CPS , pc of cake with no intake . EGR pipe , installs after just fine although I did cut a wrench to tighten it back on . Looking in my tool box , that would be a 7/8" wrench . Little tight , but , doable none the less . It's all you would have to deal with after the intake .

No need to remove anything but the clutch fan . Lift it out slowly and rotate it clockwise as will be needed . Goes back same way . That's how I did mine and would do it no different today . Of course , pulling the rad at this point is simple and no reason not to give yourself some extra inches .

I got so lucky when buying my engine . Ad read : 2001 5.2 and trans 50K $1500 . I offered $1000 for just the engine but he said come get it all for that . I get there , and before me stood a clean 5.2 , trans , and t-case from a 2001 1/2 ton . The trans I sold for $1200 IIRC , the t-case another $600 , and the intake and sensors a couple hun more . You could say I did alright on that deal (see 1995 Orvis build thread)

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Unread 07-22-2013, 09:08 PM   #32
dnuccio
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,484
im starting to think it would be better to rebuild my engine. for everything i would need (bearings, rings, gaskets, cyl head work) it would put me a little over the cost of the engine from my buddy, but it would be pretty much a brand new engine.

i dont know. still have alot of thinking and research to do. and have to come up with the money somehow. being 16 and not having a job sucks
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Unread 07-22-2013, 09:55 PM   #33
zjosh93
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,187
You still have pretty good crosshatching and I don't see any significant ridge at the top of the bores. The piston crowns look good. I see a line on two of the bores that might indicate that the top ring is gummed up in the bore and not rotating like it should. If you pull the pistons and they aren't scuffed you can probably get away with honing the bores to break the glaze, cleaning up the ring lands, and putting a new set of rings in there. Break an old ring and use the factory cut end to clean the ring lands. Don't wire brush them. Ring land clearances and geometry are very tight and important to good ring seal. Get the major crud out with the old ring then soak them in diesel, kerosene, or white gas (Coleman lantern fuel) to get the rest of the carbon out. I like to add fuel injector cleaner to the mix but that's just me.

Probably still worthwhile to check the deck for flatness. A mechanics straightedge and a set of feeler gauges should work. You said you have access to your schools auto shop so I assume you have a decent selection of engine tools.

I would get the heads magnafluxed and resurfaced. They probably took the brunt of the damage and a machine shop can tell you if there are any cracks or warping that won't clean up. I'd have them check for valve wear too and decide if it's worth putting money in your current heads or getting junkyard heads.

Replace the main and rod bearings. Use plastigauge to check bearing clearances. You can get 0.001" undersized bearings if you just need to get them a little tighter but it looks like Rockauto only wants to sell full sets. You can mix and match them and standard bearings to get it perfect, a half-thousandth step won't affect anything. If your crank is worn beyond that or if it has grooves that catch a fingernail you'll need to get the crank turned too. Same goes for rod bearings. If any of the rod bearings are seriously worn, hammered, deformed, or don't check out with plastigauge you'll need to get them resized as well.

I bet your school has a die grinder. It's worth the time to get a Standard Abrasives kit and at least smooth your intake and exhaust runners, maybe some short side radius work, and debur the block/clear the oil drains.

Paint the lifter valley to aid oil return to the block. They make fancy ceramics for this but regular rustoleum does useful work too.

Plenty of guys have done low buck 318s, no need to reinvent the wheel:

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/113_0304...d/viewall.html

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes...r-budget-build
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Unread 07-23-2013, 12:01 AM   #34
orvisss
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparMech View Post
ZJ Hemi swap ftw?
is that even possible? Heck, I'd be all over that, I love hemi

dnuccio, your ZJ looks pretty neat! Like a new (aside from the engine) you should keep it
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Unread 07-23-2013, 08:29 AM   #35
dnuccio
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orvisss View Post
is that even possible? Heck, I'd be all over that, I love hemi

dnuccio, your ZJ looks pretty neat! Like a new (aside from the engine) you should keep it
yeah theres no question that im keeping it. its my first car, and in its current state, id be stupid to sell it because of the loss i would take.
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Unread 07-23-2013, 08:26 PM   #36
orvisss
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you should have someone take bunch of pics when you do the swap. Personally, I never get tired of looking at swap process
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Unread 07-28-2013, 06:19 PM   #37
dnuccio
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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just thought id update this. i decided to leave the bottom end alone after my grandpa (who was a chrysler master tech for 30 years) looked at it and said the cylinders are ok. he bought me reman heads and all the gaskets and bolts. i just have to come up with the money for the new radiator and she'll be kickin again!
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