Gurgling noise behind dash, air in radiator? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
lma1973
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Gurgling noise behind dash, air in radiator?

Okay i thought i had a clogged AC drain tube because of hearing liquid behind the dash on the passenger side. Well now it seems like this noise is directly proportional to how much gas im giving the engine. The sound is coming from the radiator overflow resorvoir located on the passenger side of the engine bay. I can hear all sorts of liquid running through there all the time.

Could this be due to air trapped in the cooling system and if so, how do i "burp" it. Thanks!


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post #2 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 10:06 AM
Phil Gerard
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Yes, the first thing I would do is go to a store where you can rent a cooling system pressure test kit. I know locally AutoZone has them and you goive them like $50 and when you return it they give you all your money back.
The first thing I would test is the radiator cap. Actually, if you drove a different car there and brought your red cap with you then you could test it right in the parking lot. If it leaks, you'll hear the air rusing through it - buy a replacement. I got mine at the dealership for $11. AutoZone has them but they're cheap looking.
If not the cap then go home and pressurize the system. Do you already notice coolant loss?
When you fill it up, park the GC with the front end elevated. like on a curb and run it with the cap off filling through the overflow bottle. That should get any remaining air bubbles out.

Phil

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
lma1973
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Thanks for the advice. I'll give all that a shot. I have noticed a little coolant loss in the reservoir (maybe gone down an inch or so in the last 6 months).

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 01:25 PM
Phil Gerard
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No, an inch in 6 months is not significant. Usually, we're talking an inch a month or more.

Phil

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TW DC DS; ARB Bull Bar, F&R Air Lockers; Superior Axles; Warn Winch; 4.56 gears; ACOS, Addco F&R Sw Bar, JKS Discos, Rr Track Bar & Nerfs, 249>242 Swap, Stillen rotors+Kolak pads, 3 pc. Armor, RE 4.5 Kit + 2.5"BB, Adj. UCAs&LCAs, OME SS, Bilstein 5150s, 15x8 AR Diamond Backs, 33 Truxus MTs, K&N FIPK, RE 62mm TB, Perf. Distr. 4.0L Kit, Exhaust: 2.5" Kolak exhaust FM 70: Optima Yellow, Mean Grn Alt., PIAA 520s, 540s, Kevins Rack, & TB Conversion
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
lma1973
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How long can i run it with the radiator cap removed? When i do this, should i also remove the cap from the reservoir as well?

Thanks.

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lma1973
How long can i run it with the radiator cap removed? When i do this, should i also remove the cap from the reservoir as well?

Thanks.
I'm not sure you meant this but in an effort to improve communication:

You can't DRIVE it with the rad cap removed. It's only a technique to force out air bubbles while in park. Ten minutes would be fine. If you're not fillinf it then the resevoir can be closed.

Phil

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post #7 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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LOL yes-sorry. I meant how long can i start it and run it (front tires elevated on a curb and in Park) to burp the radiator. Thanks for your help.

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post #8 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 07:19 PM
Phil Gerard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lma1973
LOL yes-sorry. I meant how long can i start it and run it (front tires elevated on a curb and in Park) to burp the radiator. Thanks for your help.
WHat you want to happen is for the engine to warm up and open the thermostat. Squeezing your heater hose will tell you this. Then run it a little more and replace the cap. But if you have an air leak either in , the rad itself or the cap it won't do much good for any length of time.

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TW DC DS; ARB Bull Bar, F&R Air Lockers; Superior Axles; Warn Winch; 4.56 gears; ACOS, Addco F&R Sw Bar, JKS Discos, Rr Track Bar & Nerfs, 249>242 Swap, Stillen rotors+Kolak pads, 3 pc. Armor, RE 4.5 Kit + 2.5"BB, Adj. UCAs&LCAs, OME SS, Bilstein 5150s, 15x8 AR Diamond Backs, 33 Truxus MTs, K&N FIPK, RE 62mm TB, Perf. Distr. 4.0L Kit, Exhaust: 2.5" Kolak exhaust FM 70: Optima Yellow, Mean Grn Alt., PIAA 520s, 540s, Kevins Rack, & TB Conversion
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-31-2006, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
lma1973
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Sweet...i'll do. Thanks.

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post #10 of 12 Old 07-02-2009, 12:21 AM
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I too have had this problem, advice taken thanks. Just overheated on me, had the water pump and thermostat replaced less than a year ago, replaced the thermostat thinkin that was it today. That was a no go, overheated on the test run. Any ideas? Im going to have it pressure tested, Im hoping that it isnt a crack in the radiator.
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-02-2009, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillieB View Post
I too have had this problem, advice taken thanks. Just overheated on me, had the water pump and thermostat replaced less than a year ago, replaced the thermostat thinkin that was it today. That was a no go, overheated on the test run. Any ideas? Im going to have it pressure tested, Im hoping that it isnt a crack in the radiator.
sounds like you have air in your system. run the car with the radiator cap off and jack up the front end. Air rise's to the highest point usually the gargling is air in the system turn the heat on fullblast and everything.

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post #12 of 12 Old 07-02-2009, 05:06 PM
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My buddy changed the pump and tstat on his 5.2. Ended up overheating on the highway and warping the heads a couple of days later. Guess he didn't burp it enough???

Most replacement tstat's don't have a small hole next to the center so that air can easily flow through. I remember the original tstat we pulled out of there had one, I never looked to see if the new one had one. After disassembly I realized it did not. I drilled a tiny hole next to the center and now the system just burps itself completely. Yes some coolant flows through when tstat is closed, true, but the amount is insignificant to affect cooling system performance.
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