GSW DW Freaking out etc... - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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GSW DW Freaking out etc...

Long post but I need help here bad:

So about 5 weeks ago I ran Gillespie Gulch/Nugget Hill and during that day ripped up my SS. Every since then I have had bad DW. Bad as in DW at 30-35mph as soon as I hit a bump.

So in the past few weeks I have been on a spending splurge to fix everything I can. I have replaced:
1) UCA axle side bushings
2) Right-Front wheel hub bearing assembly
3) 4 x TRE's (2x on the tie rod and 2x on the drag link)
4) BPE (got rid of a little clunking)
5) Monroe SS from Kolak (switching to an OME SS tomorrow)

So that is ~$400 there (+ tools necessary to install this crap).

I have another wheel bearing assembly I am picking up tomorrow (another $140) and on Monday will have a set of ball joints for one side (probably going to replace my front-right since it seems like it originates from there).

Testing all of my components (grabbing tire @ 3 & 9 or 6 & 12, prying hub upward) don't display any symptoms of bad components but each time I replace something my DW gets slightly better.

So GSW is in ~5 days and the last thing I want to do is to be the guy to bail the day before the trip

The only things I haven't replaced are:
1) Both sets of ball joints
2) Wheel bearings on driver side

All control arms + track bar are new (RE CA's and JKS Trackbar). I only have 32k miles on my WJ so nothing should be worn out. Everything went down the crapper the day I destroyed my SS.

So in dire desire to go out to Moab, I need your guys help!

Suggestions, thoughts, etc... Other things to check?

I have gotten many alignments, dropped my air pressure on my 31's down to 28psi (my 32's are even worse! - They actually drive great @ 15psi ).

Thanks a bunch,
Ryan


'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #2 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 06:28 AM
greasefingers
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I am confused on the control arms. If I understand things: you have four new CAs and also two new bushings; up in the front?

The ball joints are a more complicated job. This is the one time that I would actually use a puller (it’s really the only way) rent a serious one from AutoZone or such. Once replaced, at least your camber should be perfect.

DW is one of the most F’ed up issues one can have with the Jeep. I spent one month and about the same money as you. I truly believe the cause is different for different Jeeps. I do not believe that toe or camber has much to do with it. But Caster certainly would make sense to me. Does your Jeep have those cam-bolts on the LCAs for changing the caster? If so then are they set the same for both sides? I am no expert when it comes to alignment. Alignment should be the last thing done as replacing components can change this.

Cheers Steve

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Last edited by greasefingers; 06-03-2006 at 07:01 AM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 06:32 AM
NOTQUITEMUSASHI
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are your tires balanced? a buddy od mine, when he thowsa weight od has mud caked in his tires/wheels wil get dw @ 35ish.

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post #4 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 06:44 AM
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Musashi: Death Wobble is initiated by an upset to the vertical motion (by hitting a pot-hole or imperfection in the hwy). Unbalanced tire wobble is initiated by speed alone.

Arlo: maybe this will cheer you up. This is my bent tie-rod. I got DW around the same time I discovered that my tie-rod was bent. After replacing the tie-rod, with the Rustyís conversion, I STILL had DW!!


Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #5 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 06:46 AM
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Arlo: where are you? Itís time to wake up and drag your butt under the Jeep

Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #6 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 06:47 AM
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I was thinking caster as well, you might have a very low caster, so there isnt alot of pressure on the tires to hold the steering wheel straight.

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post #7 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 07:26 AM
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i was going to say maybe your tierod or draglink may be bent and flexing a bit but after seeing that pic . are all your wheel weights still on the rims? i mark mine to make sure theres no movement.

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post #8 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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I have a JKS tierod...it is very straight, my caster is ~5deg which is what the Teraflex website suggests. Would more or less caster help?

Grease: I have all new CA's which replace all of the CA bushings except two which are part of the axle...those were fried and I replaced them.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #9 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTQUITEMUSASHI
are your tires balanced? a buddy od mine, when he thowsa weight od has mud caked in his tires/wheels wil get dw @ 35ish.
Yep, tires are nicely balanced...

Oh and just to clarify, I used to get DW @ 35mph ish and it was bad DW...now I hit a bump at 45+ and it shakes every so slightly but does stop on its own (at least so far)...I haven't tested it above 55 for fear of dying

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #10 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 08:54 AM
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That's a long 4 hours to Moab at 35. Keep us posted.

Hunter

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post #11 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 10:40 AM
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With the wheeling you have done it may have been enough to put some wear on the ball joints to give it some play. And with that little bit of slop in the joints it causes the oscillation.
If it wasn't so close to GSW I would let you use my ball joint tool. But the shipping to get it up to you in time would be about the same as the cost of the tool itself.
And if you are doing the ball joints you will want to use the proper tool to get the job done.

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post #12 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 11:09 AM
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Ryan do you have Kevins dual SS setup?If all else fails Ryan put your stock arms back on.I have been on stock arms every since I got her and no DW.I got Kevins duall SS setup as a precaution.
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post #13 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 11:25 AM
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You've done all of the complicated things, but have you checked the simple solutions? I would suggest retightening all of your components to factory torque settings. I had DW in my TJ after I did my lift, and a loose trackbar turned out to be the culprit. Make sure everything is TIGHT! Good luck!

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post #14 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 12:31 PM
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Have you measured toe-in yourself? If not, do it. Don't trust an alignment shop too much.

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post #15 of 29 Old 06-03-2006, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Phew, internet has been down all day.

So I have checked all of the bolts and all are tight...my Jeep has been at a shop all day getting an alignment and will get it back tonight sometime before 7...fast service eh?

Nathan thanks for the offer on the ball joint tool...I actually bought one last week to replace my bushings...

Ramon: I don't have the Dual-SS setup. I had Kolaks Monroe SS that I barrowed from PullMeSideWays until this morning when I traded/bought an OME SS from him. It seems a bit beefier.

Thanks guys,
Ryan `

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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