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Advance Adapters SYE KitsARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 05-02-2013, 09:29 PM   #1
purewhitemp5
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Bear, DE
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gremlins

Ok I am new to the jeep world just purchased a 98 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0l at a wholesale lot and have noticed some issues 3 weeks later.

1. Battery drain - Did some searching on the forum and already tried some things out : Disconnecting the neg. terminal and hooked up a test light and started pulling fuses at the kick panel and PDC no change, so I pulled all the fuses out at once and then all the relays....no change.
Next I checked all the connections and sensors in the rear lift gate all are clean and well connected so I pulled the plugs on all the sensors.... no change.
I will be purchasing a new multimeter and repeat before I start pulling major components.

Anybody else have any solutions/insight to offer?

2. High Beam indicator stays illuminated in the cluster with the lights on and does not go out when pulling the HI/Low switch......switching the headlights out clued me in on why it is always on, it seems one head light is on low beam and the other Hi-beam , pulling the hi/lo switch and the lights swap places....anyone have any ideas??

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Unread 05-04-2013, 08:52 AM   #2
KoreaZJ
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Welcome to JF!

1. Check the current draw (amperage) with meter, not lamp. Then try to isolate the draw by pulling fuses.

2. High beam indicator is controlled by BCM based on the dimmer switch position HI/LO/FlashToPass setting.

Check the output wires at the headlamp switch, test for +12v with meter:
Pin#20 RD/OR color, +12v with HI beam and FlashToPass
Pin#18 VT/OR color, +12v with LO beam




Headlamp HI/LO beam circuits are each controlled (spliced) together. One of your headlamp plugs/wiring might be miswired.

Check the wires at the headlamps, test for +12v with meter:
HI beam = +12v on RD/OR wire
LO beam = +12v on VT/OR wire (center pin)
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Unread 05-04-2013, 06:14 PM   #3
purewhitemp5
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thanks for the response I will check tomorrow after work. today i am trying to figure out why my blower motor only works when glove box is open.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 06:29 PM   #4
JohnCrabtree
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purewhitemp5
thanks for the response I will check tomorrow after work. today i am trying to figure out why my blower motor only works when glove box is open.
This is something I would read on the "you know you drive a ZJ when" thread...

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Unread 05-04-2013, 10:44 PM   #5
KoreaZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purewhitemp5 View Post
thanks for the response I will check tomorrow after work. today i am trying to figure out why my blower motor only works when glove box is open.
Common cause of blower problems...

Check the connectors on the front of the heater box for pin damage from overheating.
There are usually visual "burny marks and meltyness" (author: ratmonkey)

Looks something like this...





Some cut the connectors out and splice all the wires together.
Or just bypass the connector with damaged wires spliced together.
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Unread 05-05-2013, 05:54 PM   #6
purewhitemp5
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Thanks Koreazj blower motor is now fixed! Now for the current drain I hooked up a meter to the battery and get a .15 amps reading and pull the no.7 fuse it drops down to .00 amps or if I leave the fuse in and wait it drops down to .01 after a min or two. So now its time to do some forum searching.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 12:21 AM   #7
KoreaZJ
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Your draw seems normal...

From FSM...

"A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty milliamperes (0.005 to 0.030 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. The thirty milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment."
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #8
purewhitemp5
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So I checked the pins 18 and 20 and could ya tell me if this is correct:
When I checked 18 i got 3.75 volts when I pulled the multi switch the volts went to 12.35
When I checked 20 I got 5.35 volts when I pulled the multi switch the volts went to 12.34

Shouldn't the volts be at zero when not on? Or is this because I have 1 hi and 1 lo beam on?
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Unread 05-06-2013, 11:56 PM   #9
KoreaZJ
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Pin#18 VT/OR color, +12v with LO beam
Pin#20 RD/OR color, +12v with HI beam and FlashToPass

With headlamps on, while toggling between HI/LO beams, the +12v should alternate between pins 18 and 20.

Pin#18 3.75v reading may be the BCM input which monitors the low beams.
Pin#20 5.35v reading may be the Daytime Running Lamp Module input which monitors the high beams.

Your readings sound normal.


Did you measure at the headlamps?

Headlamp HI/LO beam circuits are each controlled (spliced) together. One of your headlamp plugs/wiring might be miswired.

Check the wires at the headlamps, test for +12v with meter:
HI beam = +12v on RD/OR wire
LO beam = +12v on VT/OR wire (center pin)
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Unread 05-07-2013, 02:52 PM   #10
purewhitemp5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
Pin#18 VT/OR color, +12v with LO beam
Pin#20 RD/OR color, +12v with HI beam and FlashToPass

With headlamps on, while toggling between HI/LO beams, the +12v should alternate between pins 18 and 20.

Pin#18 3.75v reading may be the BCM input which monitors the low beams.
Pin#20 5.35v reading may be the Daytime Running Lamp Module input which monitors the high beams.

Your readings sound normal.


Did you measure at the headlamps?

Headlamp HI/LO beam circuits are each controlled (spliced) together. One of your headlamp plugs/wiring might be miswired.

Check the wires at the headlamps, test for +12v with meter:
HI beam = +12v on RD/OR wire
LO beam = +12v on VT/OR wire (center pin)
I didn't get a chance to check at the headlights yet, I figured since I have the dash apart might as well solder the headlight switch to eliminate the flickering dash lights. I was going to check today but it is raining out so maybe tomorrow.

Last edited by purewhitemp5; 05-07-2013 at 02:54 PM.. Reason: forgot a word
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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:13 PM   #11
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purewhitemp5 View Post
thanks for the response I will check tomorrow after work. today i am trying to figure out why my blower motor only works when glove box is open.
sounds like a problem with your cat.

sorry couldn't resist hoping in on that one
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