Grand Cherokee power window/lock problem - Page 3 -

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post #31 of 70 Old 06-01-2012, 09:51 PM
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i think i may have found the location of my problem, not the cause but the location, usually when my switch decides to work, if you hold the button, the window will go down, stop, go down, stop and so on and same thing going back up, well on my way home it went all the way down and back up without stopping, so i tried it again when i got in the driveway, it went all the way and then dead, quit working all together, oh, and its raining......

usually if i screw with it long enough they will begin to work, they didn't, i wiggled the rubber boot between the door, nothing, after a few minutes and lots of aggravation, i began to slam my fist against the passenger side door right on the area of the switches, the lights the lit up and the window worked again, it went up and down several times, no issues

so what i noticed was that the drivers side F&R switches were lit up, the passenger side F&R were not, but then came on after pounding on it, so i have reason to believe the weak link is in the passenger door module, further testing will verify this, also i assume that the drivers door is sending a signal to the passenger door but it is not receiving, further testing will verify this

KCCO! -Nick
2001 Jeep WJ, I6, Select Trac, IRO 3", Cooper ST maxx 265-75, 16" Raceline Rockcrusher Wheels, Custom Tire carrier, 30" Seward LED Light bar, rear Aussie Locker
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post #32 of 70 Old 10-13-2012, 01:46 PM
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Any update to this?

Originally Posted by zinnco View Post
I just solved a similar problem using the advise in a post from ZR7 Ken. Here's my reply:

Ken - Your advise was 100% correct. If the following conditions are present:
1. Rt. front and rear power windows do not operate
2. Rt. power mirror does not work
3. Door locks (on my 1996 ZJ driver's still worked) do not work
4. Keyless entry does not work

Then the problem is the passenger door module, which is contained in the power window / door lock switch assembly.

I had power to the tan wire at the switch module harness connector and had ground at the black wire. No wires in the harness were frayed or broken. Got a used module from the junkyard, plugged it in and it's all good.

Except, as you warned, the keyless remote does not work because it has to be "synched" to the new module.

Can this be accomplished by a shade tree mechanic?
Has there been any update to this? My symptoms appear to be exactly the same as 1-4 with one addition, it appears that the instrument gauges flutter considerably when starting.

I've check wiring inside the rubber boot on both driver and passenger front doors, no wires are broken. I've inspected both doors wiring harness too and no issues are visible. I'm thinking my problem is also the passenger door module.

I'm about to investigate this next.

What are the odds of reprogramming the keyless entry if this module is replaced?
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post #33 of 70 Old 10-13-2012, 02:07 PM
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I have not had problems with mine since i punched the door panel, i think the harness plug must have had a bad connection

KCCO! -Nick
2001 Jeep WJ, I6, Select Trac, IRO 3", Cooper ST maxx 265-75, 16" Raceline Rockcrusher Wheels, Custom Tire carrier, 30" Seward LED Light bar, rear Aussie Locker
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post #34 of 70 Old 11-16-2012, 03:35 PM
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1998 grand cherokee electrical window problems

Hi guys... okay I read everything about electrical window problems, here is mine, my driver side door switches do not work, they went on and off a few times, then stayed off, the mirrors work, and driver side passenger door stopped working but the right side passenger front and back works... all the wires look good... power to the driver side window switches and the little lights all went off... and the rear driver side window only... I looked extensively for a broken wire, nothing... so I need to know were else to look...
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post #35 of 70 Old 11-16-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wktz View Post
power to the driver side window switches and the little lights all went off.....
If lights are out, you simply need to find where the 12vdc supply is disconnected.
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post #36 of 70 Old 11-16-2012, 04:49 PM
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Sounds like you lost power/ground to the DDM (Driver Door Module). No separate fuse for only DDM, so likely broken wire(s) in the driver door hinge boot area. Move the wires and pull lightly, see if it is intermittent.

Might also try reseating the connector on the DDM.

1. Either open the door boot and look for broken/damaged wires.


2. Use a meter to probe the pins at the PDM connector while moving the harness. Look for missing +12v/GND or intermittent. You'll still need to open the boot for repairs if it's broken there.

Pin#12 = +12v / TN (tan)
Pin#7 = GND / BK (black)
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post #37 of 70 Old 05-14-2013, 10:09 AM
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Kruzin - THANK YOU so much for sharing this fix with us. This week's repairs have all been semi-related and you helped immensely! Solely because of the posts in this forum, so far this week I have: 1] Replaced the clock spring (to fix air bag light and sporadic turn signals but found the clock spring was not the problem), 2] mended broken wire in driver door boot (now door controls work when driver door is open), 3] soldered cracked turn signal module pins (corrected sporadic turn signals), and 4] replaced 2002 airbag control module with a used 2004 ACM per service bulletin suggestion (turned airbag warning light off and restored airbags). It's a fwiggin' shame to have to do all these things to make the vehicle keep working properly; so that's why I am so thankful for this forum. And I have about a grand of coin still in my pocket that would have gone to mechanics.
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post #38 of 70 Old 05-14-2013, 10:21 AM
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I've got an issue too in my 04 WJ. The windows, locks stop working every once in a while. I reached in where the harness goes into the drivers side kick panel and wiggled the harness and re-seated the plug ends, and wham everything came back up and was working again. I've had those plug ends come loose a few times now.

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post #39 of 70 Old 02-22-2014, 11:08 AM
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4th time repairing the wires, now I am stumped...

I read through this thread.
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo. 95k miles.
I repaired the wires in the boot for the drivers door three times now (over the past 35k miles, give or take).
I repaired the passenger rear door wires once.
Just yesterday, the drivers windows and door locks do not work.
Passenger and rear windows do not go down, at the driver's control or the individual doors.
the only thing that works is front passenger door lock to only unlock the passenger and rear doors. the switch will not lock the passenger door or rear doors or drivers door.
The remote locks passenger and rear and cargo door locks, not drivers door
I checked all the doors wires (except the cargo rear) and the wires are fine. rear passenger's wires were wet.
Driver's wires are also fine, they are together under the shrink wrap/electrical tape.
I bought a new #12 (50) fuse, put it in. Does not change anything.
Do I need a new driver's control switch? I had it replaced years ago, under warranty (only warranty fix I ever had).
any help is greatly appreciated!!!
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post #40 of 70 Old 02-22-2014, 12:34 PM
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thanks for all the tips, found orange wire broke in the rubber boot of passenger door, my interior lights stayed on and both passenger doors windows or locks wouldn't work along with the remote. Got the wire together and all works great. Thanks again to all.
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post #41 of 70 Old 04-27-2014, 09:58 PM
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When I purchased my ZJ almost 4 years ago, the passenger rear window didn't work. This whole time I thought it was the motor as the one time I tried diagnosing it, I swapped the rear door switches and it still didn't work. Recenly I picked up a good used window regulator motor and swapped it in. Still nothing. Found this thread and checked the wires...sure enough, had 2 broken wires between the body and the passenger rear door. Fixed them and now it works like a champ.

Thanks all for the help!

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post #42 of 70 Old 05-03-2014, 06:54 AM
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pwer door locks and windows

ok guys after having this happen to me i can safely say check these three things out first ,check the wire harness boot between the door and body for broken wires or loose connector , if all is well then check to make sure you don't have the child safety switch engaged on the doors or the drivers master control switch in lock mode , if you have gotten this far and still they don't work then last two options are its the driver side master control switch that has broken contacts inside or and this is a big one the bcm module under your dash is bad the bcm controls all the dash and door functions that's why its called a body control module or bcm for short it mounts to the back of your under the drivers side fuse box and you can go to and look for the video on how to remove and install it . I hope this helps out all you lost souls and good luck .
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post #43 of 70 Old 09-03-2014, 03:58 PM
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Well I have almost the same problem. My front drivers side door window and lock. Stopped working. Yesterday my window went down and wouldn't come up. A few min later it worked. Well today I put it down and it won't go up or make a sound. I've tried what I can cause I'm out taking my wife to doctors appt. So things I can do are very limited. Will these options help?? I can't test wires and my car expertise is low. Any help would be great. I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
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post #44 of 70 Old 09-03-2014, 04:12 PM
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I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and my drivers side door is a Grand Cherokee TSi. Now my problems are almost but a bit different. My drivers front door window and lock stopped working. The window went down yesterday but got it to go back up a few min later. Today it went down and stayed there. No sounds from window or lock. I can work other windows and locks from there and the doors. I did a few checks. Right now my tools and such are limited. I have no voltmeter and my car expertise is low and limited. Will these options help me?? Im desperate.
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post #45 of 70 Old 09-04-2014, 06:00 AM
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Sounds like a loose connection or a broken wire.

Do you have enough tools to take off the door panel?
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