Grand Cherokee power window/lock problem - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 68 Old 04-19-2011, 08:45 AM
1ATony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlcii77 View Post
I had the same thing happen to my windows the other day. It was the wiring in the boot on the driver's side. One was broke completely in two & a couple of others were cracked. Going to solder & shrink wrap them. I can't remember what color the wire that broke was.
When you do it, I'd make the wire a tad bit longer too,just so it has a little extra room to move when you open the door.

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post #17 of 68 Old 05-20-2011, 07:57 AM
Lethalpierce
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99 Jeep grand cherokee Windows/door locks not working

Windows/door locks/driver mirror suddenly stopped working one morning on my way to work and after work they began working again.

They stopped working the next day and never sense. i figured it had to be a wire because why would it just start working again. dosen't sound like a fuse to work and not work.

checked driverside door black rubber boot. Found black wire had been rigged with an extention with lots of electrical tape.

Today im gonna try and take everyones advice from this site and try to soder a piece of wire to repair the black wire so i have extra space, then if that dose not do it i will try to replace #12 fuse (50).

i'll post again after im done with results.

RESULTS = NO! black wire repaired....nothing. Fuse #12 (50) replaced....nothing. I'm at a loss now.

Also, i notice before i started the repairs that the Temperature read out on the overhead console dosen't read temperature, but dose read direction. N,E,S,W...weird.

FIXED IT ALL!I forgot to plug back together the door to body connect after repairing the black wire. DUH! Also, it didn't work right away. it fixed the door locks and mirror only, so i took the negative cable off battery and took new #12 (50) that i had just replace out and put old fuse back. (cause it still looked new) then put the negative back on battery and now everything works again.

noticing that my negative battery is loose. wonder if that had a little to do with all of this. Gonna go get that fixed now so this all dosen't happen again. I would do it myself, but it has to many wires attached.

Hope my post helps

Last edited by Lethalpierce; 05-20-2011 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Adding
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post #18 of 68 Old 05-20-2011, 12:51 PM
cali7312
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same problem, no wires are broken at all.. check both drivers and passenger doors. going to replace/check fuses tonight

(Totaled)-1998 ZJ: 3" Coil Spacers, Zone Shocks, Rustys Track Bar, 32x11.5 BFG A/T
(Current)-1998 ZJ: 3" Skyjacker SA Lift, 32x11.5 BFG A/T, Baja-8 ; 33x12.5x15 Interico Truxus M/T, Quick Discos
Wrenching on soon: Front + Rear Adj. Trac Bars, 2" Pucks, 35s.
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post #19 of 68 Old 08-19-2011, 10:47 PM
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My 2004 Grand Cherokees passenger windows would not roll down. Also the power locks for the whole car would not work. I found two wires in the black tube in the driver side door half broken and fixed them both. Still had same problems. Switched out fuse number 12 which was a 50 amp fuse with another 50 amp fuse and now the problems went away. Both of the fuses were fine so ?? Maybe a bad connection, but it worked.
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post #20 of 68 Old 12-31-2011, 10:00 AM
zinnco
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Perhaps This Will Help

I just solved a similar problem using the advise in a post from ZR7 Ken. Here's my reply:

Ken - Your advise was 100% correct. If the following conditions are present:
1. Rt. front and rear power windows do not operate
2. Rt. power mirror does not work
3. Door locks (on my 1996 ZJ driver's still worked) do not work
4. Keyless entry does not work

Then the problem is the passenger door module, which is contained in the power window / door lock switch assembly.

I had power to the tan wire at the switch module harness connector and had ground at the black wire. No wires in the harness were frayed or broken. Got a used module from the junkyard, plugged it in and it's all good.

Except, as you warned, the keyless remote does not work because it has to be "synched" to the new module.

Can this be accomplished by a shade tree mechanic?
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post #21 of 68 Old 02-25-2012, 02:22 PM
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I am having sort of the same problems with my 04 WJ. When I went to get in the Jeep to go to work the only things that worked were the driver's front window and lock, the drivers rear window and the driver's mirror. I have disconected the rubber boot from the door and checked the wires and none of them seem to be broken. I have also replaced the #12 fuse under the hood. Has anyone had the wires broken within the door or inside the dash part? Or any other suggestions as to what could be causing the issues?

04 WJ: all stock
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post #22 of 68 Old 05-11-2012, 06:52 PM
windlaker
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Worked for me.

Did the drivers doors (2 broken wires). Still didn't work.

As I'm scratching my head, I thought, why not check the passenger side. 1 broken wire there.

FIXED!
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post #23 of 68 Old 05-11-2012, 07:33 PM
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It's a good idea to check ALL the door harnesses when you have this issue start up. I had to repair 4 wires (one was a speaker wire) on the drivers door, 2 in the front passenger, and 1 each in the rear on mine. It can be a PITA but having windows, doorlocks, and speakers that work is kind of nice.

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post #24 of 68 Old 05-12-2012, 07:19 AM
justtalkin
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Good info from everyone. Thanks, Guys. I have had similar problems of this nature with other cars--fixed them the same way. So, I can appreciate all the work you have done. Thanks for taking the time and posting your results. It is feedback like this that makes the Forum successful. Thanks, again.
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post #25 of 68 Old 05-29-2012, 02:53 AM
sergiovilnius
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Hello,
I have this problem in my 5.9, I did everything you all have written here. Al doors wires are ok, changed different fuses, nothing happens. Finally I will need to buy a door master switch, but the problem I am in Lithuania, maybe you know some internet address that can contact to send it to me?
Thank you.
Sergio
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post #26 of 68 Old 05-31-2012, 06:02 PM
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not to pull up and old thread, but once again same problems here, windows work on and off along with the locks and mirror, no broken wires, unplugged the battery nothing, thoughts?

KCCO! -Nick
2001 Jeep WJ, I6, Select Trac, IRO 3", Cooper ST maxx 265-75, 16" Raceline Rockcrusher Wheels, Custom Tire carrier, 30" Seward LED Light bar, rear Aussie Locker
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post #27 of 68 Old 05-31-2012, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwarrior View Post
not to pull up and old thread, but once again same problems here, windows work on and off along with the locks and mirror, no broken wires, unplugged the battery nothing, thoughts?
Did you test the wires or just look at them? You really have to inspect them closely and testing with a DMM is best. If you have totally eliminated faulty wiring between the door and the body check the wiring where it enters the drivers side. There is sometimes an issue there. Chasing down an electrical issue can be a pain. The symptoms point to either broken wires or bad power or ground to the affected systems. You'd have to get the wiring diagram for your specific vehicle to see exactly how the systems are wired and trace each wire until you find the culprit.

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post #28 of 68 Old 06-01-2012, 02:18 PM
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i didn't have time to go in depth just checked real quick for obvious broken wires and loose connections, i'm actually an electrical engineering major and my current job involves chasing wires all day long, just helps to have an idea where to start

KCCO! -Nick
2001 Jeep WJ, I6, Select Trac, IRO 3", Cooper ST maxx 265-75, 16" Raceline Rockcrusher Wheels, Custom Tire carrier, 30" Seward LED Light bar, rear Aussie Locker
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post #29 of 68 Old 06-01-2012, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwarrior View Post
i didn't have time to go in depth just checked real quick for obvious broken wires and loose connections, i'm actually an electrical engineering major and my current job involves chasing wires all day long, just helps to have an idea where to start
I gotcha. The "usual suspect" is the drivers door connection. The wires inside that black boot are notorious for going bad and 1 bad wire there can kill all the doors/windows. You'll have to disconnect the harness from the door and move the boot out of the way as best as possible. The next spot (since you said all the doors/windows) is that same wire bundle but inside the vehicle behind the kick panel. It makes a weird bend and can sometimes cause breaks. I do assume you checked/replaced the fuse. Might want to test the fuse holder to make sure it's getting the right amount of power. On some models there is a security module that can cause issues with the doors/windows but since you said mirrors go out too it probably isn't your issue.

It is a real PITA to do but once you have all your locks and windows working you'll appreciate the time spent. I had to fix wires on all 4 of my doors when I got my new (to me) 93 ZJ.

Own a Grand Cherokee? Click Here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...ations-1162687
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post #30 of 68 Old 06-01-2012, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 1ATony View Post
When you do it, I'd make the wire a tad bit longer too,just so it has a little extra room to move when you open the door.
Plus one. Soldered commectioms, crimps etc. are not as flexible as wire, so leave an extra length after or before the soldered joint which can flex without breaking.
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