Hello All,
The 44RE in my 97 Orvis is starting to act up. Slipping under a hard acceleration. So after adjusting the bands and the TV Cable its a little better but at 238000 miles I think its time to look into finding a replacement I decided to go with a 46RE. I checked with the recycling yards I deal with,[They told me the 46RE must come from a Niner] the best I could find semi-local was a 46RE out of a Niner with 197000 miles and they wanted 300.00 for it. So I decided to search the webb and I think I scored a good deal on craigslist 2 hours away from me. It's a 5.9L with the 46RE Trans and the 249 Transfer case out of a Niner with 111000 which he drove for a year before pulling the drive train and selling the body He was going to install it in a 97 ZJ but lost interest. He was asking 500.00. I offered him 400.00 and told him I'd be there in two days he called me back a couple hours later and said it was mine. I hooked up my Quad trailer and hauled it home. I wasn't looking to swap the motor as my 5.2 is still running strong but now that I found this deal I can't resist. I'm going to call this project "The Ultimate Orvis" I'm sending the 46RE out to be rebuilt and beefed up. The guy that does my tranny rebuilding says he could do this tranny in his sleep. I'm going to pull the 5.9 apart have all the machining done then rebuild it my self. I've been doing alot of reading looking to get 300 HP out of it. What do you guys think? Good Deal Or Not ????
Oh Yea, The rest of the build consist of custom long arm 8" lift,12.50x37x17 Goodyear MTR Tires, Notch Customs Fender Flares ,Front and rear Hanson Bumpers, Artec Trussed Ford 8.8 out back and Artec Trussed and sleeved Dana 30 HP up front with A WJ steering upgrade [I know I got the housing for free]. 4.88 Gears Posi front and rear. Most of which is purchased already I was saving up for the custom long arms when I found the 5.9 & 46RE. Looks like it will be a while longer before I tear it apart and start the build.
kg6mov
I got my stub shafts back from the machinist he didn't do the modification the way I wanted bassically he built up the stubs then milled them down to fit the 97 ABS tone rings I wanted the rings built up and milled down to fit the stub shaft I was concerned about heating the stub while doing the weld but he assured me it was done right and they're as strong as before. 175.00 for doing both I thought that was a little pricey but there done. I haven't gotten back to that part of the project yet. I'll let you know how it turns out. Still haven't sold the other two sets of WJ U-Joint axles if you know of anybody interested send them my way.
kg6mov
I got my stub shafts back from the machinist he didn't do the modification the way I wanted bassically he built up the stubs then milled them down to fit the 97 ABS tone rings I wanted the rings built up and milled down to fit the stub shaft I was concerned about heating the stub while doing the weld but he assured me it was done right and they're as strong as before. 175.00 for doing both I thought that was a little pricey but there done. I haven't gotten back to that part of the project yet. I'll let you know how it turns out. Still haven't sold the other two sets of WJ U-Joint axles if you know of anybody interested send them my way.
kg6mov
I got my stub shafts back from the machinist he didn't do the modification the way I wanted bassically he built up the stubs then milled them down to fit the 97 ABS tone rings I wanted the rings built up and milled down to fit the stub shaft I was concerned about heating the stub while doing the weld but he assured me it was done right and they're as strong as before. 175.00 for doing both I thought that was a little pricey but there done. I haven't gotten back to that part of the project yet. I'll let you know how it turns out. Still haven't sold the other two sets of WJ U-Joint axles if you know of anybody interested send them my way. Please!!!
That's not a horrible price for the work. If he did it right that should be perfectly fine for the shaft. The other way would be my preference as well, but it is more work from the machinists point of view.
The big drawback being that when the u-joint blows and destroys the ears on the stub you have to get the replacement stub worked over the same way, vs just swapping your custom tone rings.
I agree with you both I'll go easy on the skinny pedal. Believe it or not I don't do a lot of wheeling. Just love building it. I finished my 95 Orvis and sold it then bought a Niner sold it and bought this 97. I have to admit this one will be my nicest one yet.
I mean, it did also cost me 120 quid to get the grand carcass hauled away.
Course I got to test drive the powertrain before it gets rebuilt and dumped in the pig.
MYNU: Even on the street those tires are putting a lot of stress on the balljoints and hubs of a d30, it's just not gonna last. I'd even be worried about how the wj brakes would stop it.
I'm hoping for the best. I have a friend whose been wheeling for a year on 35's with a 30 he said as long as I use my head it will hold up. We'll see. I got the 30 HP for free and only paid 125.00 for the WJ Dana 30 for less than 600.00 I'll have A trussed,gusseted and sleeved 30HP hopefully it will hold up. The WJ Unit bearings I'm using are bigger than the ZJ's that should help in the support department. I what to get this project rolling I'll cross that road when I get there.
A buddy built this hp30 for 35's with his 4.0 and 4:56 gears. Broke it. Ring gear is just too darn weak. I think it was sleeved with c gussets and rcv shafts.
I'd get at least a 44 for 37's but then you could just get a 60 lol. 4:56 is probably the max for the 30. 4:88 is going to be pretty rough.
Keep the updates coming because if you built a 30 that handles 37's then I want to copy it for sure.
I'll keep you posted. I'm hoping if I baby it to get a year out of it. Question ? Can you build a 60 and keep the 5 lug bolt pattern only asking because I don't want to change my Rims. In regards to the rear arms basically going with the upper triangulated lower strait (stock location).
No, anything with lockouts needs a large center bore. You'd want to change your rims anyway as you want a wider axle so you're not cantilevering the wheel off the end of the thing and destroying the bearings like on the d30.
I agree that 4.88's is gonna be the sticking point, the one tooth of contact is gonna end quick.
This is stating an increase in strength of 40-50 percent. That's quite significant. I remember another article that was doing a front d30 for a wrangler that stated the strength level of the 30 after cryo, and sleeves, gussets, and chromo's as being close to the stock rear 44. They we going to run 37's on it with 4:88's lol. You know how these mags can be though lol.
Wow getting an education on how pricey these motors are to rebuild. That being said. Does anyone have a USED Hughes MPI Air Gap intake for sale? Or know of someone who does. If so can you point me in there direction?
Thanks
All the write ups say it's good for low to mid range preformance. I'm worried the Kegger wont work with a cam and heads upgrade. Is anyone runing a Kegger with other mods?
Hello Again
Just in case anyone is interested I found a contact for the Mopar M1 Intakes www.performanceinjectionequip really nice people at a really good price. Ordered mine this morning.
Waggy is a 4,514 lb curb weight full size truck with an suv body, so it gets 3/4 ton axles. Zj is a flimsy unibody 1/2 ton, so it gets half ton axles. Dakota/Durango got the same thing and they are in the same class.
kg6mov
Go to bing.com type in Preformance Injection Equipment Click on their site then once on their site type Intake in the search bar and the M1 4BBL Intake should be there 449.99 plus shipping. Do you know anyone using a 4BBL throttle body on our ZJs? I would love to try it. Just wondering about linkage.
Oh, 4bbl, nah the 2bbl is the one I want (but is discontinued). 4bbl isn't gonna be worth it unless you're running a 408 or forced induction.
From FlyinRyan:
Intake Manifolds
The data does not lie.
The M1 2bbl and Airgap are basically comparable. The M1 2bbl flows approx 270cfm, while the Airgap flows 255cfm. The Airgap does have a larger inlet which is nice for bolting on larger throttle bodies. The M1 2bbl requires minor porting on the inlet to do so.
These manifolds are both well suited for a heads/cam 318 or 360.
For 390s/408s/426s, I would insist on an M1 4bbl unless you are building a stump puller type application.
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