Genright hood louvers done w/pics - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
HighLonesome
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Genright hood louvers done w/pics

Intro:
My current effort to keep the modded 5.9 cool. This one went well and I snapped pics throughout, so here's the writeup. I recommend just buying the louvers from Genright. The reason I say this is because there aren't any special deals out there. Of course I chintzed out and bought a set off ebay and the guy sent me the wrong louvers and I got stuck with the return shipping. Give yourself an afternoon for this project, but it could be done quicker.

Materials:
Genright LVR1006 louvers
black model paint
black spray paint
electrical tape
acetone

Tools:
angle grinder
metal cutting disc
rivet tool
sidecutters
die grinder
drill
1/8" drill bit
felt tip pen
hacksaw
ruler
straight edge
goggles
small model paintbrush

Notes:
I downloaded the directions for both the Genright and Runcool hood louvers. The Runcool directions are way better, and tell you how to make a rainwater diverter, which I didn't do.

I bought an angle grinder and rivet tool from Northern, and they worked perfectly. I went to Lowe's and got a Dewalt 4.5" .045" metal cutting disc. It happened to be on sale for $1.77.

angle grinder
FREE SHIPPING — Northern Industrial Grinder — 4.5in. 10,000 RPM | Grinders + Stands | Northern Tool + Equipment

rivet tool
Rivet Tool and Assorted Rivets | Rivet Tools | Northern Tool + Equipment

See pic 1.

Steps:
1. I removed the hood, set it on sawhorses and removed the insulation. It takes two to remove the hood, but after that it can be wielded by one guy. I'm going to leave the insulation off. See pic 2.

2. Pic the spot where you want the louvers to go and trace the pattern on the hood. I picked a spot where I thought there would be the least interference from hood supports. And I got it right. All the pop rivets worked first time. Also, I made measurements to make sure both sides were in the same position. See pic 3 and 4.

Attached Thumbnails
gen17.jpg   gen1.jpg   gen2.jpg   gen3.jpg  
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post #2 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 04:48 PM
rugermack
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Hope your not going to cut the blue line.

95' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 148k, 5.2, NP242, 46RH, 4" RC lift, all new adjustable ca's(2 IRO front uppers and the rest RC adjustables), nitro shocks, JKS TB's, Jet Chip, Dynamax cat back, Magnaflow cat, GTP hood vents. 31" Pro Comps with Rock Krawler "D"s. Westin brush/grill guard with Hella 500s, 411's, Solid diff covers, detroit locker rear, power lock in front, SYE and Tom Wood's front/rear shafts, RE discos, BPE's, d-rings front and back, factory tc and rad skid, hitch, Sliders next.
03' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, (wifes Jeep) 99k, 4.7 5 speed auto, K&N, KYB shocks, drilled-slotted rotors, All the toys.
2000' Ford Superduty, F250, 7.3, 198K, 37's, too much to list.

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post #3 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 04:50 PM
skendralla
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Yeah, good call. You may want to move mark some holes from the top first.
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post #4 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
HighLonesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugermack View Post
Hope your not going to cut the blue line.
Naw

continued steps...

3. Lay down your tape along the trace. Inner edge of tape on your line. See pic 1. Using the inner edge of the tape as a guide, make marks 5/8" from the tape along the 4 sides of the semi-rectangle. The Runcool instructions say 1" and the Genright 1/2". 1/2" is cutting it too close IMO. Draw your cutting line. See pic 2.

4. Set the louver on the hood in the trace and mark the 8 holes with the felt pen. Adjust your cutting line if any of the holes are too near the cutting line. See pic 3. I already made the cut, but you can see the marked holes.
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gen4.jpg   gen5.jpg   gen7.jpg  
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post #5 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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5. Make the cut with angle grinder or whatever you choose, finish the corners with a hacksaw, and deburr with die grinder and a green Roloc disc. See pics 1,2,3.
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gen6.jpg   gen8.jpg   gen9.jpg  
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post #6 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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6. Lay down the louver and drill the 8 holes. Drill a hole and insert a pop rivet as a guide as the instructions say. Then drill the next hole. Pic 1. Deburr the holes with the die grinder so the louvers will fit tight to the hood. Redrill the holes and deburr twice to make sure. Pic 2.
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gen10.jpg   gen13.jpg  
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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7. Rub the area inside the tape down with acetone and lay down some black paint to stop rust. Rust never sleeps. Pics 1,2.

8. Rivet the louver to the hood. While you are pumping the rivet gun, push down so the louver fits tight. You pump the rivet tool until the rivet breaks. Usually they break below the surface. But not always. You will need to trim those with sidecutters. Pic 3.

9. Spray some paint on the underside to stop rust. Pic 4.

10. Touch up the rivets you needed to trim with black paint and a small modeler's brush. You may not have to do this.

Done! pic 5. I think I will get 100% flow out of these louvers...nothing is blocked.

Waiting on my neighbor to get home from work to put the hood on. Pics to come.
Attached Thumbnails
gen11.jpg   gen12.jpg   gen14.jpg   gen15.jpg   gen16.jpg  

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post #8 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 05:54 PM
MurdaJs
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Niiice, looks awesome. I want to do this on my white zj too. No need for a photoshop request now

Nice write-up
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post #9 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 06:06 PM
WhiteOut
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Thank you!! As soon as the old Jepp is gone from the garage Im putting on my 5.9 louvers on. I figure the steps should be the same but I just bolt the drip trays underneath and trim the under-hood felt.
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post #10 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 06:08 PM
blackjack12982
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Nice, I've been looking for 5.9 hood vents or the GTP vents, I do believe this will be the route I go. Thanks!
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post #11 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
HighLonesome
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You can see daylight through all the louvers in the first pic. Finished in the second pic.

I noticed when I look at the louvers from the rear, I can see some crinkling in the hood metal. Kind of looks like crap. 8 holes probably isn't enough.
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post #12 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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The crinkling. It looks worse in person.
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post #13 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 09:03 PM
wickerham
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nice write-up. no drip trays though? wet fuse case on pass. side and wet battery on driver side worries me.
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post #14 of 29 Old 11-23-2009, 09:04 PM
318jeepcherokee
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they look good.. but linda look like the vents you have in the floor of your house(skinny and long) ...nothing beats the look of the factory 5.9 hood louvers.. i got the platinum 5.9 ... was thinking of painting the louvers black..

-1998 grand cherokee 5.9- custom intake, MTX sledge hammer sub with two JBL audio speakers in the rear doors and JVC deck, Westin safari bar with two 6' lights, Yakima load warrior with reverse lights, Hooker aero chamber muffler.
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post #15 of 29 Old 11-24-2009, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickerham View Post
nice write-up. no drip trays though? wet fuse case on pass. side and wet battery on driver side worries me.
Yea I am a little concerned although it hardly ever rains here. The instructions say look out for the alternator and distributor, but I'd worry about the PCM the most. Fuses and battery are both on passenger side. The fuse box has a cap. Its easy to add a rainwater diverter later on. To get the louvers off, you just clip the ends off the rivets and they pop out. I'm going to run it for now.

I think the crinkling on the hood metal happened when I made the cuts with the angle grinder. I caused hotspots and the metal deformed a little.
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