CCD bus carry's data between all the modules, PCM,BCM,Instrument cluster,VIC,overhead display,door modules,memory seat,radio ect. It's just two wires.
I had a similar problem on one of my 96ZJ's when I first got it....Start and run for awhile then the gauges would die and the warning lights would come on. Turn the key off and start again same thing after awhile.
Another thing that was happening when the Gauges quit the windows would quit working as well and the overhead and Vic would flake. It turned out my factory radio was Fk'd up and was shorting the bus.. It was a head scratcher.
Just trying to eliminate the data bus as a problem. Google "CCD data bus bias".
Since ur PCM caused an overvoltage any of the modules could have sustained damage.....not saying thats ur problem just that there's a lot to look at besides the usual fuses,relays and CB'S
A FSM would be of a great help....
KoreanZJ's Q "When everything quits... do the turn signal indicators and cluster illumination lamps still work?" Is a biggy clue on troubleshooting your problem.
Pin 1 on the harness is 5v supply from the PCM. The PCM also supplies the same 5 volts to the other sensors i mentioned. What you are trying to do is eliminate those other sensors as a cause for the problem you are seeing at the crank sensor.
The black connector should be the one closest to the engine, PCM fuse is in the fuse box behind the battery. i dont have time to look up the fuse number right now, so just disconnect the battery cable if you want to check it.
I think you are going down a rathole here. The drivability problem does not coincide with what you say is happening on the meter.
Just sitting in jeep right now. Have read a few things about the CCD Bus and still don't nderstand much, but here is an update. If the key is off pins 3 and11 have 2.3 v on, key on same , running same, running after gauges quit same.
Windows operate in all conditions, but if gauges are off then working windows makes gauges spike or twitch.
If have lighting on, parking or headlights, starts and gauges quit like has been except voltmeter which pegs to high side.
Also can't really lell if dash lights are working as it is just to bright out now.
Another note about windows. Gauges act the same no matter which door is controlling windows
Oh, great! Now a new deal, after checking all these different combos of lights windows, turns, volts key off, on, and running, etc. Now all the gauges are working when running but at the point where they all quit before now the voltmeter is the only one changing. It is pegging to right and check gages is pinging and lighting as should when this happens. This is at idle. If revved the gages quit and when idling again go back to norm. But now voltmeter is pegging to right after about 30 seconds running.
I have a 98 ZJ with the exact symptoms. I've been chasing solutions to this problem for months! I've tried changing the cluster, BCM, fuses and switches/modules, etc. to no avail. I've checked and rechecked grounds.........but I KNOW that I'm still missing something obviously, BUT now what?!!!
Just to catch up this thread and provide answers to anyone that may find it due to similar problems, I now have answers.
A friend with a trucking company and a generous disposition heard about my problems and blessed my family. He said he had the best mechanics and he paid for a very long tow and all parts and labor.
Four hours after looking at it, this mechanic discovered the problem. I had the wrong alternator. The alternators had been going bad every year or so and the original had been bought with a lifetime warrenty, so when i had a problem i pulled it and threw it up on the bench and got a new one. They said my history indicated that I had some other problem and the alternator checked out within normal range so it must be my computer. Three computers later same symptoms. I got it inspected, liscenced and have been driving it 50 miles a day for 2 weeks now.
My VIC may have died because of the long term exposure to this problem or could be completely unrelated. The point is that I didn't back up and fully test every part of the problem. I assumed I didnt need to test the alt because it was new. It was new and it did check good. It just did not match my system so my computer could not regulate it properly and that caused the gage cluster reaction. Hope this helps others. And thank you to all that tried to help, great group.