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Unread 02-22-2013, 09:51 PM   #16
JS97ZJ
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OK Nate, I just went back over your old thread and now I remember your problem.
Don't jump around making new threads for the same problem. You'll make us nuts.
Did you try pulling the #7 fuse in the JB ???
Did it solve the draining problem you were having??????

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Unread 02-22-2013, 09:53 PM   #17
Nate620
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Yes so that's what I wanted to know ... Now I'm 95% sure that fuse is wired to the switch on my dash and when I say wired I mean instead of a fuse that has the two prongs I. That fuse slot there's 2 wires that have prongs on the end going into the 2 slots... Wondering if this could be where my problem is for my battery draining...

And no I haven't - I haven't had the chance to do anything yet I plan on doing that tomorrow - the jeeps been sitting with the battery disconnected because of this problem, I just today opened the fuse box to see that... And sorry about the different post.
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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:20 PM   #18
JS97ZJ
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It doesn't look like it should have any effect on your draining problem, but here is the rest of the diagrams for you to study.
One thing that is connected to that circuit that could cause a drain is the rear cargo light switch. If that switch is on it would drain the system.
What about that F#7???????
16e.png   16f.png   16g.png  
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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:29 PM   #19
Nate620
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Where is the rear cargo light switch? If we're thinking of the same light I don't think that light ever worked, even with the switch that's connected to that fuse on
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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:32 PM   #20
JS97ZJ
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The lens is the switch. Pushing up on it turns it on and off.
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Unread 02-23-2013, 10:32 AM   #21
Nate620
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Okay so I went out and checked lights and this is what I found out - fuse #16 is connected to the switch located on my dash, with switch 'off' none of the lights work at all, when switching the lights on they work for when you click the lenses/ open doors Besides my hatch and drivers door - they don't trigger the lights on, also of the jeep isnt running and i turn the switch on the interior lighrs go on and wont turn off when clicking the lenses... Now for fuse 7 I'm disconnect it now and will come out late on tonight and see how it is as if it was draining my battery I'd be able to hear it when I turn the key...
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Unread 02-23-2013, 01:11 PM   #22
JS97ZJ
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From what I can understand from what your saying, is that there are 2 wires (one from one side of the fuse and the other wire connected to the other side of the fuse). The two wires are connected to the switch.
Correct.????

If this is the situation, what you have is, the previous owner was having problems with the interior lights shutting off after the Jeep was shut off. He tried to fix the problem by installing a switch that would control the courtesy lamp relay. That would shut the lights off, but wouldn't stop the BCM from seeing that one of the doors were open due to a bad switch or a switch that was not fully actuated.

What you will have to do (in that situation) is to remove the 2 wires to the fuse and install the 10 amp fuse that belongs there and locate the defective switch or repair that hanging door (hinge) so the the BCM can fall asleep after the courtesy timer drops out and shuts the interior lights off.

When any off those switches are actuated (doors closed) the switches are actually in a disconnected state. When the doors are open the switches make contact and turn on the Body Control Module's courtesy timer, that will turn on courtesy relay.

The way the BCM works, is that if one of the doors are open or one of the switches is shorted or sticking, it makes the BCM think that the lights need to be turned on. After a period of time, the lights will go out regardless as to the state of the switches (doors open or closed) to conserve the battery's power. But the BCM will still be active drawing the 180 ma, sucking the life out of the battery overnight. The courtesy timeout is about 1 minute. The battery conservation, takes a few minutes longer before the lights go out.

Like I said before, if pulling fuse #7 stops the drain it is more than likely that one of the door switches (or ajar switches) is defective.

That f #7 disconnects the power to the BCM preventing it from staying awake and causing the drain.

I might not be able to go back online for awhile, I've got to fix this damn laptop. It's crashed twice while posting this response.
I hope this helps.......
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Unread 02-28-2013, 06:59 AM   #23
Nate620
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Okay so since Sunday I've had fuse #7 pulled and the battery has not drained( I started it up once a day making sure it wasn't dead but only ran for under 30sec every time)... Now how can I go about finding the problem that fuse is having?
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Unread 02-28-2013, 07:01 AM   #24
Nate620
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That's the fuse box, those yellow /purple wires are the wires that go from the switch on my dash to fuse #16
image-1942707165.jpg  
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Unread 02-28-2013, 07:52 AM   #25
TheRealOldjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate620 View Post
That's the fuse box, those yellow /purple wires are the wires that go from the switch on my dash to fuse #16
LOL - so they are just using the switch as a disable for the circuit. The switch bridges where the fuse used to be. Hopefully they put a fuse inline on one of those wires.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 08:05 AM   #26
Nate620
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Well either way I don't think that's the problem, I've had fuse #7 out and there seems to be no problem with the battery drained as the jeep starts right up. And yeah someone hacked that in, I bought the jeep for a steal last January so I'd say I got my use out of it, just trying to fix it now before I give up and scrap it lol
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Unread 02-28-2013, 01:01 PM   #27
JS97ZJ
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The 2 wires and switch was the previous owners way of trying to eliminating the drain. He was trying to control the interior lights with that switch. Remove the wires and the switch, the replace the fuse with a 10 amp replacement.
If it takes some time to locate the problem, you can pull the #7 fuse to stop the drain and control the BCM.
If your door hinges are good and the switches check out good, you'll probably find that one of the rear hatch ajar switches are bad. They get corroded in that area and contacts fail in an actuated state. Here is what one of our members found on his....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/f...ts-not-714931/

and heres a diagram of the hatch
1.png  
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Unread 02-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #28
Nate620
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Reading that link I will add that my liftglass does not work on my hatch, ever since I bought the jeep I've tried opening it and its never worked - aside from that I think the drivers door is the other thing I could think is the problem because of the sagging door hinges - any link on how to fix that? I was told by a mechanic that it'd be a 'big' job to do but I'm curious as to hard that is.

besides that liftglass everything on the hatch works, and also how can I go along to find if the drivers door is the problem? I did have the sensor removed as I said earlier in this post so that while I was driving the screen on the middle of my dash wasn't flashing showing the drivers door open and the buzzer going off...
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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:22 PM   #29
TheRealOldjeep
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Sagging door hinge - just did that a couple weeks ago. Relatively easy to do yourself
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...cement-506080/

On the liftglass - when you press the rubber switch above the license plate it doesn't unlatch the glass?
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94 YJ 2.5L/AW4 (Gone)
98 ZJ Limited 5.2 - sons car
97 TJ 2.5L/30RH - daughters car

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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:37 PM   #30
Nate620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealOldjeep
Sagging door hinge - just did that a couple weeks ago. Relatively easy to do yourself
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...cement-506080/

On the liftglass - when you press the rubber switch above the license plate it doesn't unlatch the glass?
Yeah it doesn't unlatch it at all... And also those wires do have a inline fuse on them.
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