FULLY Charged Battery, but NO POWER - - - At all!! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
killKIRK
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FULLY Charged Battery, but NO POWER - - - At all!!

OK, the ZJ has been sitting for a couple months. I went to start it last week and nothing. I figured the battery was drained, even though it was new and I didn't have a drain before, but...

So I went out this morning and hooked up the battery charger. The battery was still fully charged. I tried to start it again and nothing. Really nothing, as in no power to anything. I did a cursory check of the under-hood fuses, but nothing is obviously blown.

Feeling dumb. What am I not thinking of?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 12:23 PM
gactech
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Ignition switch? What about door lights? Are they working?
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post #3 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 12:52 PM
dusterdude
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1996 ZJ 
 
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If you no headlites,see if it has a fusible link of some sort,it may be burnt
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 12:56 PM
1slo_camaro
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1998 ZJ 
 
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check all your wires, make sure its not something stupid like a loose ground or something

like previously asked do you have any lights or anything? check your wires down to your starter and if you are just looking at your fuses go buy a test light and with the key on EVERY fuse should have power to it on both sides, if they dont then check the wires coming out of your fuse block to the battery/motor and make sure its not corroded or somethings stupid like that. just think the basics dont over look and OVER investigate things

1998 ZJ~~V.r 4~~4.0 with a bunch of fancy stuff that makes it look pretty sitting in the driveway.
PM me for 99+ intake manifolds for sale
$125-sandblasted and painted and shipped
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
killKIRK
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Nope, no lights. Power door locks don't activate. Nothing.
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 01:22 PM
1slo_camaro
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ok i would start by taking a test light and touching all your fuses make sure you have power to both sides, if you still have no power then check the power wire thats going to the fuse block check that for power, if nothing there follow that wire back to the next point of contact. eventually youll find the problem. you have to have power stopping somewhere, if all your power sides have juice running to them, then start checking all your grounds. hook your test light to the power on the battery and check the negative side of the battery (power?) if yes follow the wire down to the next contact point, and keep tracing till you find no ground/power. thats where i would start if i was you. id be safe to say that if you have a good battery and nothing is apparent like a broken wire or something then you more then likely blew a fuse and didnt notice it? trust me its dumb but take a test light and check every single fuse and both sides of it. my jeep didnt start for a few days and come to find out with the test light that i had a blown fuse and couldnt tell cause its a super super small break and couldnt see it

1998 ZJ~~V.r 4~~4.0 with a bunch of fancy stuff that makes it look pretty sitting in the driveway.
PM me for 99+ intake manifolds for sale
$125-sandblasted and painted and shipped
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 01:44 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Two thing come to mind... rodents and park neutral switch.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 08:09 PM
zjosh93
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You might want to first check your battery terminals. It may sound dumb but I spent ten years working a parts store and I fixed lots of peoples "bad batteries" by just taking the terminals off running a terminal brush in the terminals and on the posts and hooking things back up. It's not just the big puffy white lead oxide you have to worry about, the posts also form lead hydride IMS, it's dark grey and hard/brittle. Both are not very conductive. I've seen plenty of relatively clean looking terminals that are nasty on the inside once you get them off the battery.
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post #9 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 08:10 PM
1slo_camaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
You might want to first check your battery terminals. It may sound dumb but I spent ten years working a parts store and I fixed lots of peoples "bad batteries" by just taking the terminals off running a terminal brush in the terminals and on the posts and hooking things back up. It's not just the big puffy white lead oxide you have to worry about, the posts also form lead hydride IMS, it's dark grey and hard/brittle. Both are not very conductive. I've seen plenty of relatively clean looking terminals that are nasty on the inside once you get them off the battery.
thats what im thinking, sounds like its something small or stupid hes just overlooking.

1998 ZJ~~V.r 4~~4.0 with a bunch of fancy stuff that makes it look pretty sitting in the driveway.
PM me for 99+ intake manifolds for sale
$125-sandblasted and painted and shipped
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 08:16 PM
WindsorRenegade
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I had a 95 Cutlass Supreme that did that. With each progressivly harder blow to the fuse box, it seemed to send a little more power to stuff each time until it finally had enough juice to turn over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthole View Post
I just bumped it around till it was in the hole and she went right in. But my hands were hard to fit in there.
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 08:23 PM
jtackerman28
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Make sure terminals are good. I had that issue with a slightly cracked ground terminal. That is probably your problem, that or the fuses

3.5 re lift, double sheer front tb, 31" wrangler duratecs
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post #12 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 05:54 AM
ZJMTL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
You might want to first check your battery terminals. It may sound dumb but I spent ten years working a parts store and I fixed lots of peoples "bad batteries" by just taking the terminals off running a terminal brush in the terminals and on the posts and hooking things back up. It's not just the big puffy white lead oxide you have to worry about, the posts also form lead hydride IMS, it's dark grey and hard/brittle. Both are not very conductive. I've seen plenty of relatively clean looking terminals that are nasty on the inside once you get them off the battery.
This. Mine wouldn't start at all today, same as you, so I took some baking soda to the terminals and connectors and she's as good as new now.
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post #13 of 14 Old 02-27-2012, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
killKIRK
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OK, so it gets dumber. The battery and cables are new (this is why I was so confused by the symptoms), but I checked the connections anyway. Tested every fuse, no power anywhere. The charger was on overnight and the gauge on it indicated that the battery was full charged. The only thing that made sense was a dead battery, so I picked up a new charger, hooked it up. Apparently the old charger was toast because the new one indicated that the battery was DEAD. I charged it for a couple hours and VROOM! All is good. Relying on one piece of technology is a bad idea.

Dumb!
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post #14 of 14 Old 02-27-2012, 11:24 AM
Foundrydude
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My "automatic" charger has done the same thing, fortunately it's got a manual switch so you can force it to charge no matter what.

Another family member has one of those fully automatic chargers with no over-ride and it's a PITA with a completely dead battery. It charges for 20 seconds then cuts off and only cycles 3 or 4 times before quitting completely. So you gotta sit with the POS and manually restart a few times til the battery shows a couple volts and your arse is completely frozen off.

Technology is often more trouble than it's worth

Glad you're on the road again
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