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Unread 07-21-2014, 02:31 PM   #1
Gearhead31
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full a/c replacement parts list

So I'm getting ready to start ordering the parts for a full system replacement. I can't find the other threads from not too long ago that had the stuff so sorry for asking again.

So far I have these parts in que, are they ok or are there better/other parts I should get? I may search fleabay and amazon for cheaper pricing but I need the base list to start with. Any specific brands that are better than these that aren't gonna be premium pricing?

Parts from rockauto:
-Denso Compressor part#55036151K
-TYC Evap Coil Part#5011167AA
-Four Seasons Drier/Acumulator Part #33902(I'm trying to find the other OEM one that was mentioned to avoid the fitting size difference issue)
-Spectra Condensor Part # 74379
-Four Seasons Orifice tube Part # 56522(is it an orifice tube we need?)
-Full o-ring kit.

I plan to reuse everything except the parts being replaced since the only thing that's really for sure bad was the evap coil, and the rest is being replaced for GPs and preventative work.

Thanks!

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Unread 07-21-2014, 02:37 PM   #2
Gearhead31
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I'm probably going to get the heater core reeplaced as well since it will be easy work at that point and it's probably the original core in there..
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1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
1998 Chevy Cheyenne K1500, 5.7L Vortec, mostly stock
*In peace, sons bury their fathers. In war, fathers bury their sons. - Herodotus
[QUOTE=JasonStebbins]We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D[/QUOTE]
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Unread 07-21-2014, 03:37 PM   #3
zjosh93
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That Four Seasons 56522 is the right part. If you look at a picture of it its actually the whole low pressure side hose (well pipe really) assembly. The orifice tube on the ZJ does not come out of the pipe.

The Four Seasons accumulator/drier you list, 33902, doesn't include the hoses so you'd have to have your hoses or new hoses swaged in place. 55559 is the one with hoses. I put it on my 93 and all the fittings were correct.

Double check that TYC evap coil. RockAuto carries TYC and they don't list it. Didn't really come up in a google search either.

Make sure to get a new compressor. With the prices these days the reman are not much cheaper and much more prone to early failure. Make sure to get some flush to clean out the line from the compressor to the condenser or buy a new one.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 03:45 PM   #4
Uniblurb
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Same thing I went through on my 96 4.0 and replaced everything but the condenser. You won't need the "full o-ring kit" unless you want extra's since all those parts come with them.

Heck, if you're installing all new parts I'd forget about somebody else charging it for well over $100 and do it yourself! I borrowed a loaner AC vacuum pump from Autozone and pulled the vacuum down, let it sit, no leaks. You'll need to buy and add most of a 6oz bottle of 'Page 100' oil first. Then your completely empty system will take 24oz of R-134a total. Not hard to do at all since you have nothing to flush with all new parts while you'll know the capacities.

Good move installing a heater core while you have the HVAC box out and I went with a Spectra core. Good luck!

Edit: good point Josh and I forgot about the hose from the top of the compressor to the condenser which might as well be replaced too.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 04:25 PM   #5
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
The Four Seasons accumulator/drier you list, 33902, doesn't include the hoses so you'd have to have your hoses or new hoses swaged in place. 55559 is the one with hoses. I put it on my 93 and all the fittings were correct.

Double check that TYC evap coil. RockAuto carries TYC and they don't list it. Didn't really come up in a google search either.

Make sure to get a new compressor. With the prices these days the reman are not much cheaper and much more prone to early failure. Make sure to get some flush to clean out the line from the compressor to the condenser or buy a new one.
Gotcha, thanks! I was planning all brand new to avoid that issue with reman parts
I didn't realize that about the accumulator, that probably saved me a serious headache haha awesome catch man! Same with the evap coil, changed that and cut out some extra s&h charges(if I order all thru RO). Gonna go with a four seasons evap coil, part #54166

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Same thing I went through on my 96 4.0 and replaced everything but the condenser. You won't need the "full o-ring kit" unless you want extra's since all those parts come with them.

Heck, if you're installing all new parts I'd forget about somebody else charging it for well over $100 and do it yourself! I borrowed a loaner AC vacuum pump from Autozone and pulled the vacuum down, let it sit, no leaks. You'll need to buy and add most of a 6oz bottle of 'Page 100' oil first. Then your completely empty system will take 24oz of R-134a total. Not hard to do at all since you have nothing to flush with all new parts while you'll know the capacities.

Good move installing a heater core while you have the HVAC box out and I went with a Spectra core. Good luck!

Edit: good point Josh and I forgot about the hose from the top of the compressor to the condenser which might as well be replaced too.
I figure I should keep at least a couple o-rings extra, since I tend to shred them when fitting metal pipes together, don't know what it is about them that they always try to rip apart for me haha
I was figuring I'd probably charge it myself. Other shops here don't want to touch it unless a shop has certified the work anyways, so I doubt I'd find anyone who would do it.
I was planning to do the core anyways, just so I wouldn't have to worry about it hopefully for another 20 yrs(if the jeep even lives that long). One less thing to just mark off the list for good, eh?
Got a recommendation for that second hard line? I haven't found it anywhere, but was thinking about reusing it.. I might just replace it if it's cheap enough, just to make doubly sure it doesn't become a possible leak point later. High pressure lines always give me a rough time with this stuff =/

What are the pressure ratings again, 35-48 on the low side and 280-340 on the high side? I know temp makes a difference for it but is that pretty close to the right ranges? If I can't find a gauge set, I might just rely on those cheapo recharge kits with the gauge
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1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
1998 Chevy Cheyenne K1500, 5.7L Vortec, mostly stock
*In peace, sons bury their fathers. In war, fathers bury their sons. - Herodotus
[QUOTE=JasonStebbins]We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D[/QUOTE]
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Unread 07-21-2014, 07:21 PM   #6
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead31 View Post
Gotcha, thanks! I was planning all brand new to avoid that issue with reman parts
I didn't realize that about the accumulator, that probably saved me a serious headache haha awesome catch man! Same with the evap coil, changed that and cut out some extra s&h charges(if I order all thru RO). Gonna go with a four seasons evap coil, part #54166



I figure I should keep at least a couple o-rings extra, since I tend to shred them when fitting metal pipes together, don't know what it is about them that they always try to rip apart for me haha
I was figuring I'd probably charge it myself. Other shops here don't want to touch it unless a shop has certified the work anyways, so I doubt I'd find anyone who would do it.
I was planning to do the core anyways, just so I wouldn't have to worry about it hopefully for another 20 yrs(if the jeep even lives that long). One less thing to just mark off the list for good, eh?
Got a recommendation for that second hard line? I haven't found it anywhere, but was thinking about reusing it.. I might just replace it if it's cheap enough, just to make doubly sure it doesn't become a possible leak point later. High pressure lines always give me a rough time with this stuff =/

What are the pressure ratings again, 35-48 on the low side and 280-340 on the high side? I know temp makes a difference for it but is that pretty close to the right ranges? If I can't find a gauge set, I might just rely on those cheapo recharge kits with the gauge
Yeah, not a bad idea to have some extra o-rings. While they say to coat the AC o-rings with AC/Page oil I use vasoline because they tend to come apart easier while still sealing good.

The 95-96 4.0 are the same and other than the liquid line w/orifice tube it's a "Line, Discharge, OE 55036606" you want. RO carries it and it's a "Four Seasons 56277" which costs $27.79 with info in the below link.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...128&cc=1182103

I would replace this line if you're replacing all the other parts. The FSM says this line needs disconnected if removing the radiator. There is no way in he11 I'm opening up the AC system to fix the cooling system! Lol, but I paid for it and the rad snagged when pulling it out on this line causing a little hole in it. Just what I needed and some JB weld worked until I replaced everything. Ha!

You should be able to get a loaner AC manifold gauge set at Advance and/or Autozone. I got tired of borrowing there's and finally bought a half-descent set from Amazon for $60.

But to tell you the truth you don't need it with a completely empty system and just put 24oz of 134a in it since that's the empty AC system capacity. You'll have to find a couple 12oz cans or one big 24oz can for the correct amount. I would not buy the cans with sealer in it with new everything, especially new compressor you don't want to gunk up, but not a bad idea to have UV dye in it in case you ever have a leak. Knock on wood and shouldn't even say that.

If you do end up using a manifold gauge set here the AC performance chart and you're correct it's based on ambient air temps. Keep in mind this is the temp around the engine compartment so it's going to be hotter than the reg outside air.

Here's a tip on charging. Put your 134a can in a pan/can of hot water and it will go in a whole lot faster. Learned that tip here and helps a lot. No need to turn can upside down and I had a couple of those plastic 3-lb coffee cans full of real hot water which sure sped things up! And when charging at low pressure port in the liquid line you should be at normal operating temps, AC/fan on high (lowest temp dial), vents on recirculate, windows open, rpm's at 1K. Good luck!
ac-performance-temp-pressure-chart-p.24-10.jpg

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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
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Unread 07-21-2014, 07:23 PM   #7
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I don't know the differences between 95 and 98 but I know there are some. Are 95's a denso compressor? I just remember seeing a older zj with rotolock connections on the compressor. I would get the best quality evap and heater core you could afford. Myself I would not touch any heater core that had the swivel connections on the pipe. I know the 98 takes pag 46, which is the equivalent of Denso 8, the original oil. I also discovered a difference in pag oils. There are single end capped and double end capped pag oils. That has to do with the chemical makeup of the oil. Double end capped pag doesn't form acids in the presence of any moisture. Its pricey, but I just put it in mine. Take your time. Be sure all spring locks are fully engaged. OE hoses have a white collar that breaks off when the lock is engaged. Tug on them anyway. Oil the orings before you insert them. Or you can get some snot called NYLOG blue. It lubes and protects the orings and keeps them from drying out.

If denso makes an accumulator for the jeep I would highly recommend it. Since you are replacing everything split your oil charge among the components. If you have a 95 fsm it will tell you the total oil charge and how much to put in each. I emptied the new compressor and measured the oil against factory spec and it was correct,around 7.5 ounces. I put the pag46 as follows, 1 in the condenser, 4 in the accumulator,and 2.5 in the compressor. 95 may be different. Another tip, if you leave the job,like when a nude girl is running down the road, cap everything. Leave no line open. In florida we have these goofy wasp that love building dirt nest in tubes. He wouldn't have time to build one but wasp don't make good refrigerant.

Unbolt the compressor slowly from the bracket, the steel bolts are dissimilar to the aluminum and corrosion may have set in. They will snap quite easily. I had a spare from a jy when I did mine. The best way to charge is to use superheat. A/C charge is critical along with the oil. Too much of either and you shorten the life. Too little of either and you shorten the life or wind up with "black death" where everything inside the system has a black brittle coating. Pull a good 35-45 minute vac and if possible leave overnight to see it leaks down. DO not leave the vacumn pump hooked up after you done pulling the vacumn. Do some reading and fact checking, it will pay off. Torque all bolts to spec., don't just wrench down on them. I know this is long winded, but I would absolutely hate for you to spend this dough and not have a happy outcome. Mine went in finally last weekend, and it will run you out of the cab on high. Oh and another point, even the cheapo fill jobs need to have the line purged BEFORE you attach it to the charge port or fill hose in the case of a set of gauges. This prevents a line full of air being drawn into your system. As you can see. there are alot of nit nacky details in an operation like this. The more you know going in, the better the chances are you'll have ice hanging off your nose. Do some study time. I have worked on residential A/C for 20 years, but I spent quite a few nights reading and researching the automotive side.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 07:30 PM   #8
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Damn, I was excited to see this thread, then saw it was for 4.0s :

I just keep sweating with my 5.2
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Unread 07-21-2014, 09:06 PM   #9
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A 4oz correction: I mentioned the 95 4.0 AC system capacity should be 24oz of 134a when the correct capacity is 28oz of 134a. Sorry and that may be why I used an AC manifold gauge set since it's difficult to find a combination of cans equal to 28oz.

Found my old thread when I had questions on my new AC parts/page oil quantities and coralman was a big help back then too!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...tions-1533783/
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
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Unread 07-21-2014, 09:22 PM   #10
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Thanks a lot Coralman! I don't mind the long winded writes in these, in fact i prefer them. Can i get away with a regular 10-110 ft/lbs torque wrench? I'm on mobile now, I'll reread this all later cause i only skim read it.. I pretty much have the process down now minus the purging, I'll have to look that up. I always over research this stuff before doing it. I live by the quote 'measure thrice, cut once' haha
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[QUOTE=JasonStebbins]We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D[/QUOTE]
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Unread 07-22-2014, 04:41 AM   #11
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I think most of the bolts are 20 ftlbs.the hose bolts,and the mounting bolts are the only ones to worry about.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 07:51 AM   #12
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Good catch coralman, the compressor bolt torque is critical for long life. Too much and it deforms the housing causing accelerated wear.

If you play the sales and coupons right you can get a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap. I think I paid less than $100 for both.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 08:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
Good catch coralman, the compressor bolt torque is critical for long life. Too much and it deforms the housing causing accelerated wear.

If you play the sales and coupons right you can get a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap. I think I paid less than $100 for both.
We always save the 20% off ones and wait for the sales for the costly stuff there, so no problemo. Noted on the torque. I'd hate to have that part drop like a fly with how much they cost
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Unread 07-22-2014, 08:43 AM   #14
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If you don't happen to read that other thread/link I posted where I was getting confused is when I thought the total 28oz system capacity of the AC system was the 134a + refrigerant/page oil when coralman nicely pointed out they are 2 different things in the below post. Also read the post following his because when evacuating the system the moisture/air is pulled out of the oil you have to install before assembling the whole system w/o pulling the oil out itself.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n.../#post15538959

In other words the system will take 28oz of 134a in addition to 7.75oz of refrigerant/page oil.

Evacuating the system of air/moisture isn't really that difficult and instructions normally come with a loaner AC vacuum pump but I'll post them below from the FSM. This is where a loaner AC manifold gauge set comes in handy since you can connect the pump directly to the middle suction hose on the set for a more accurate reading than the small gauge which is on the pump.

When I evacuated my AC system I did let it sit overnight to make sure vacuum held with no leaks or vacuum bleed-down.

Curious coralman why you do not want to leave the evac pump connected after the vacuum is pulled down? Isn't there a one-way check valve on the pump to prevent contaminants, moisture, and air from going back into the system? Or maybe this is just a precaution in case the check valve is bad?

Believe if you also have the evac pump attached through a manifold gauge set you're also preventing anything from going back into the system since you're also closing the valves down as can be seen below.
zj-ac-refrigerant-system-evacuate-p.24-26-96-fsm-med-size-400x600.jpg

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Unread 07-22-2014, 11:42 AM   #15
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I was taught that early on. Not aware of a check valve. You do not want to risk vac oil finding its way into system. I think they told us to do that in case someone came by and screwed with the manifold knobs.
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