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Unread 01-22-2013, 09:33 AM   #16
fisher1630
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Start spraying everything a few days a head of time, should help loosen it up. get a jack under the tank when you drop it. Only lower it a little bit because you need to disconnect some stuff on top of the tank.

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Unread 01-22-2013, 10:06 AM   #17
PolkaPower
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With how easy it is to just loosen the straps and drop the tank, cutting a hole in the floor is unnecessary.
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 01-22-2013, 11:25 AM   #18
snappyjoe
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I gotcha. Well I was wondering I know there r two fuel lines in top. Do they require special fuel dis connects?
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Unread 01-22-2013, 11:45 AM   #19
PolkaPower
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On ZJ's there aren't. Only tool you need to disconnect the fuel like is at the fuel rail. Not sure about WJ's.
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1998 5.9
Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 01-22-2013, 11:53 AM   #20
snappyjoe
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But arent there two lines connected to the pump?
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Unread 01-22-2013, 12:00 PM   #21
jeepinbassist
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There's one line connected to the pump the other hooks to the tank. I don't know why it is there because there is no return line on the fuel rail. Atleast thats how it is on my 95. You don't even need to take the bolts all the way off. Once you loosen them enough there is enough slack to take the bolt out of the hole. It is like a J shaped bolt.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 12:11 PM   #22
jeepinbassist
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Also make sure you replace the filter. When I changed mine I poured out what was in it and it was all black. I couln't even blow through it.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 01:31 PM   #23
95zjman86
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i have done it with mine. It is not that hard at all. just take your time and soak the strap bolts for a couple days before you try. My tank was quarter full. I did it by myself and used a floor jack to help remove the tank. The only problem i had was that the hard plastic fuel line broke that goes into the tank, it split in half. I got new fittings from napa and used goodyear fuel injection hose, worked great.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:27 AM   #24
coralman
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Snappy is it a wj 99> or a zj. Wj's had a fuel return line.
fuel.jpg
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:52 AM   #25
snappyjoe
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Its a ZJ. Right now I have everything soaking with some pb blaster. So hopefully everything will be ready when its time.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 08:16 AM   #26
14dude
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well on the 97 zj with a 4.0 there are 2 bolts holding the straps that hold the tank. 2 nuts hold the clamps on the filler neck. 2 hoses on the fuel pump module attached by push clips (use a flat head screw driver) to release them. use a air hose with a trigger attachment to blow any and all dirt from around the screw on top and use a block of wood and a hammer to smack the cap off. Then take module out and put new one in and reinstall. DO NOT forget that the fuel filter on 97 zj and up fuel filter is in the tank. Get the new "sock" when you get the pump some stores dont sell it with but as an accessory.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 08:23 AM   #27
snappyjoe
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Thanks on that!! Yeah I ended up going underneath and looking. And it seems easy.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 09:00 AM   #28
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snappyjoe View Post
Thanks on that!! Yeah I ended up going underneath and looking. And it seems easy.
Did you look at that link I sent post#4 ? Pics of the pump , and a how to on pg. 2

I don't think it's a 4-5 hr job , 3-4 is more reasonable , quicker if everything goes smoothly , I'd say 1-2 for anyone with experience doing it . Glad you're not cutting the floor .

Notes:
DEPRESSURIZE THE FUEL LINES AND TANK !!
1)tank is merely remove the gas cap
2)Line pressure needs to be drained at the rail . Ball up some paper towels , use the scheader valve , depress the valve gently draining the gas onto the paper towel . Once the pressure stops , your good to go . You will still get a small amount of fuel dripping when releasing the line underneath , but , no spray .
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Unread 01-26-2013, 09:40 AM   #29
xcaliber81
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It would make things easier to have somebody helping you, I personally had a much harder time reinstalling the tank simply because I have never dropped a fuel tank before. But for not doing it before it took me 5 hrs but near the end I slowed down mainly because i was getting high from the fumes lol.
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Unread 01-26-2013, 02:56 PM   #30
Uniblurb
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Looked at your link newfieZJ and some nice pics. On my 96 4.0 I removed the exhaust heat shield to get the tank out w/hoses still attached which made it easier. Too bad the twits put the hose clamps on the top which were too rusted and hard to get to.

I also found it a whole lot easier to get the hoses off of the filler tube by removing the few screws holding the rear left wheel well plastic in. Then sprayed PB on the metal tubes coming out of the filler which made them easier to get off.

Since I'm in the salt/rust belt the j-type bolts were rusted big time. Had to use a box end wrench 1st since 9/16" deep-well impact socket on a ratchet wasn't deep enough. Had soaked them down a couple days with PB and still had to keep going backward/forward while wire brushing the rust off the threads. Have read where others end up snapping them off and wasn't ready to go to the dealer to replace them.

On the old pump I couldn't get my quick disconnect tool in there because the nipple on the top was just too short. Couldn't release the connector either with flat-screwdrivers so just cut the nipple off at the old pump since was replacing it with a Bosch fuel pump assembly anyhow. Then used the quick disconnect with needle nose to clear the fitting.

Took me way too long since it was the 1st time I've done this but bet I could do it in half the time now.
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