Ahh, here it is in the middle of night, can't sleep thinking of those 2 little 11mm bolts, so you know what that means? Lol, and glad some of you enjoyed the subliminal message.
The only reason I brought testing the new crank sensor back up is I remember helping some gal on here. She was so adamant about getting a CKP which showed absolutely no resistance she took her meter to the dealer. Ended up bench-testing 4-5 of them right on their parts counter before she finally found/bought one which was perfectly clear. Just a thought and some good info Oldfrog about testing voltage to all the sensors.
As I've posted many times before bad grounds, particularly the PCM ground on one of the coil studs, took out my PCM along with the crank sensor. Vicious circle when the PCM grounds all the sensors. Not until these grounds were clean did I stop going through 3 PCM's and 4-5 crank sensors. Thanks to Zee for helping me through this!
Noticed in your fuel test video Joe you have a fairly loud exhaust. Is your cat fairly new and you don't happen to have the infamous cracked manifold/header where the tubes are welded together at the bottom do you? Our 4.0's are notorious for this and many of us have had to replace the header. This can cause a rich fuel mixture clogging the cat which some of us have found out.
Yeah, I'd like to see your fuel test under a load. When the pump starts going out they can give some quirky symptoms. On mine the engine seemed to hesitate/almost stall when making left turns after warm-up and go figure.
You'll eventually get through this and good luck!
BTW, if you do try to use zip-ties to lock-in the connectors on the PCM I found the 1/4" ones work just fine when doubled-up and fit in the connector slots perfect. Saw where you already have some and here's a photo of mine. Only found out later you shouldn't do this on a new reman unit and meant for one with the bad solder joints. Just a temp fix, wiggle the connectors first, if that's your problem.