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Unread 05-20-2012, 02:16 AM   #1
Uniblurb
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Fuel Injectors & Seal Kit questions

I pulled the stock fuel injectors on my 96 4.0 when I removed the intake/replaced the manifold. Original ones which say Siemens Deka, #278C, Mopar #53030778.

So I bought 6 "BWD Fuel Injector Seal Kits, #274081". Each kit contains 2 o-rings, a blue pintel cap, and a plastic washer/spacer.

When I pulled my injectors there weren't any pintel caps on any of the injectors and just plastic residue stuck in the very bottom of the intake injector ports. I thought this was a black plastic washer since it was just on the inside lip of the bottom of the port. But I guess this used to be the outside ring of a pintel cap? I saw nothing in the intake and nothing came out when blowing my compressor through it. Is it normal for these pintel caps to just disintegrate over time? Are they always used on injectors because I couldn't find any trace of them? The original injectors have been in there for 16 years and 196K miles.

Also I don't see any plastic washer/spacer on my injectors and each kit comes with one. I watched a video and they showed the plastic washer going above the o-ring on the bottom part of the injector but my o-ring is right up against the plastic housing of the injector. So guess I should just leave them out?

I'd like to replace my injectors but can't afford to at this time. Figure I'd just try shooting some carb cleaner in both ends, install the o-rings, the pintel cap (if all injectors use them), and the injectors in the intake.

Thanks for any input and I'm not familiar with fuel injectors/seal kits.

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Unread 05-20-2012, 03:27 AM   #2
AVR2
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All I can tell you is that the FSM and Haynes only refer to O-rings on the injectors, and the Mopar parts catalog also indicates just O-rings, one on each end of the injector. Would the plastic residue inside the injector ports possibly be from the nozzle-end O-rings?
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Unread 05-20-2012, 03:50 AM   #3
TheHalfWit
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Is this what the injector looks like?



O-ring near the connector, O-ring on the other end? If the o-rings are the right size slap em on and smack em back in.

Sorry about image quality, I'm a lazy drinker and couldn't be arsed to find my camera.
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Unread 05-20-2012, 07:36 AM   #4
KoreaZJ
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I just replaced all of my original injector seals two weeks ago.

Mopar Part # 4504348
Two O-rings ($4.43) per package, nothing else. Both same type, interchangeable between upper or lower.

I did have 3 or 4 O-rings stick in the intake and fuel rail, injectors pulled out very hard and left the seals in the place.

I cleaned everything well, found no plastic residue.
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Unread 05-20-2012, 10:42 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the input. Yeah, real similar to the one in the photo. All the rubber o-rings were intact on all the injectors but did have a few stick in the fuel rail. Maybe what I thought was plastic residue on the bottom of the intake ports was just burnt fuel between the injector o-ring and the lip? Had to scrape it out with a small screwdriver and seemed real brittle.

The BWD seal kit is the right one, the o-rings are the right size (same for both top and bottom), but maybe it's also a kit for other types of injectors? I don't like the look of the pintel cap, especially if my injectors don't use them.

Guess I'll just install the new o-rings, put some oil or Vaseline on them, and slap them back in.
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Unread 05-20-2012, 02:09 PM   #6
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I just replaced (well, a month ago) the injectors on my 96 ZJ 4.0 w/ the "703" injectors. The kit I ordered (listed in the inj swap thread) came with the caps, orings, and inlet filters.

That little plastic cap (I was told) holds the o-ring on the end).

I lube my inj o-rings with tranny fluid. Dunno why.. I just do...
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Unread 05-20-2012, 02:26 PM   #7
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since you dont want new injectors, you can use a small piece of 3/8" fuel line, slide it onto the inlet side, fill the hose with seafoam, and run the injector with the 9v battery. and its probbaly not recommended, but I blow on the hose while doing this to pressurize it so push the seafoam thru it.
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Unread 05-20-2012, 03:00 PM   #8
KoreaZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
...The BWD seal kit is the right one, the o-rings are the right size (same for both top and bottom), but maybe it's also a kit for other types of injectors? I don't like the look of the pintel cap, especially if my injectors don't use them.
Yep, that kit fits LOTS of different vehicles, so it could be somewhat generic and the extra parts are for a different application.

I lubed everything with a thin film of hi-temp silicone grease, went together buttery smooth with little force compared to pulling them out!
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Unread 05-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neonhomer View Post
I just replaced (well, a month ago) the injectors on my 96 ZJ 4.0 w/ the "703" injectors. The kit I ordered (listed in the inj swap thread) came with the caps, orings, and inlet filters.

That little plastic cap (I was told) holds the o-ring on the end).

I lube my inj o-rings with tranny fluid. Dunno why.. I just do...
Yeah, I'd like to do the injector upgrade and if I don't end up with a little more power/pickup after doing everything I've done to it may go that route.

On the OE injectors I have there's a grove on the intake end for the o-ring with a lip on the bottom. If you installed the pintel caps it would just fit up against the lip and really doesn't hold the o-ring on.

When I was a tranny mechanic years ago we used tranny fluid on most o-rings and some good stuff. But some of the fellow R&R (remove & reinstall) guys kept a jar of Vaseline on the boxes just to use for o-rings. This is what I used on my injector o-rings and they went in super easy on both the fuel rail/intake.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E-rok View Post
since you dont want new injectors, you can use a small piece of 3/8" fuel line, slide it onto the inlet side, fill the hose with seafoam, and run the injector with the 9v battery. and its probbaly not recommended, but I blow on the hose while doing this to pressurize it so push the seafoam thru it.
Yeah, I should have taken the time to clean the injectors out but didn't. I did see something similar to what you're talking about but using straight fuel injector cleaner. But I would bet that's some strong stuff since one small bottle treats 20 gals of gas. I've never Seafoamed my engine but may do so in the near future. And I could just dump some in the gas tank too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
Yep, that kit fits LOTS of different vehicles, so it could be somewhat generic and the extra parts are for a different application.

I lubed everything with a thin film of hi-temp silicone grease, went together buttery smooth with little force compared to pulling them out!
I thought about using dielectric grease on the o-rings and bet it does work good. I think this is the same as hi-temp silicone grease.

Yeah, when I did a search for that BWD seal kit part number there were Camaro and Mustang forums using it so it must fit a whole lot of different types of injectors.

I would have like to replace the screen in the injectors, if there is one, but scared to tear into them since bet that plastic is real brittle being 16 years old.

Just installed new o-rings and that was it for the kit parts. I did take the time to spray paint the fuel rail with gloss black engine heat paint I had left over from doing the oil pan. Looks a whole lot better than pealed paint/corrosion which was on the rail.
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Unread 07-12-2012, 01:53 AM   #10
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I'm kind of bringing this thread back up since I have a couple more injector questions on my 96 4.0. I haven't really done anything to them except new o-rings, cleaning the outside, and shooting some carb cleaner in each end as mentioned before.

I replaced the fuel pump assembly, w/new check valve, and am still having some bleed off problems. It's bleeding off of the rail when shutting down but it isn't bleeding off real fast. So I would guess I'm having some injector(s) bleeding off/leaking. Will a leaking injector also perform poorly?

The FSM says the injector electronic test spec is 14.5 ohms +/- 1.2 ohms. In testing mine they're all reading between 12.2 - 12.4 ohms. So if they're off/beyond the spec range by only about 1 ohm does this really matter?

The idle is not as smooth as it used to be and it doesn't have much power. I've had a couple shops tell me I should install new injectors beyond 130,000 miles and I have 193,000. But I don't know about investing $300-$350 in 6 new injectors and afraid of what I might get at a JY.

I almost thought about shipping mine out to be rebuilt/cleaned and wonder if that sounds like a good idea? Guess I could try it myself as far as cleaning goes w/a 9 volt battery and some injector cleaner. Someone already suggested this before.

Thanks for any input.
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Unread 07-12-2012, 08:23 AM   #11
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If you feel that you need to replace the injectors, you should go for the 703 upgrade. They flow the same amount of gas, but have 4 holes to atomize the gas better.
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Unread 07-12-2012, 02:52 PM   #12
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Yeah, thanks and I've read the most of the 703 injector upgrade thread. Still considering it but I'm also keeping an eye on the below thread where some may be having problems with too rich of a fuel mixture with 703's.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/s...l#post13748255

Now I would think with leaking injectors my oil would smell like gas but it doesn't. Don't know where else the fuel pressure could be bleeding off the rail overnight with a new check valve/pump assembly? But my pump primes in only 2-3 secs and it starts right up.
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Unread 10-26-2014, 07:55 PM   #13
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just to add: I pulled the injectors on my '97 TJ Sport... NO spacers, NO Tips.

Last edited by teamscoach; 10-26-2014 at 10:50 PM..
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Unread 10-27-2014, 08:11 AM   #14
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Old thread but do you think someone else removed the plastic pintel caps on the ends of the injectors? I've owned my 96 4.0 ZJ since new and still think the plastic tips dissolved over time/200K miles. Have a feeling the black burnt crud I was chipping out the bottom of the rail injector hole bottom lips was all that was left of the caps.
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Unread 10-27-2014, 11:43 AM   #15
zander21510
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When I did the injector swap at about 190k they were discolored but still mostly intact. Perhaps poor quality gasoline?
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