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Front Wheel Hub & U-Joint Replacement

3K views 50 replies 10 participants last post by  jhink92 
#1 ·
I am preparing to replace both front wheel bearing hubs and the axle u-joints. There are many brands of items out there.

As I have researched the reviews on Amazon, it seems that almost everything is made in communist China.

What brands of wheel bearing hubs and u-joints are great quality but don't break the bank? Thanks for any suggestions!
 
#5 ·
This.

I take it that you have used both the Timken and the Spicer? From what I read on Amazon, the Timken are made in China but I am not sure on the Spicer products. I realize that may be my only option, because not much is made in the USA.
A lot of parts these days are outsourced to cheap countries - even OEM parts.

As much as I prefer parts made in western countries, you don't always have a choice. If you buy stuff from a known quality manufacturer they usually also have high standards on their factories regarding materials being used and quality control - no matter if the factory is in the USA, Germany, China or Swaziland.

Labour is expensive, and companies have shifted manufacturing mass- products in low-cost countries. That's what we've wanted, isn't it? We want cheaper prices, companies give us cheaper prices...
 
#3 ·
I take it that you have used both the Timken and the Spicer? From what I read on Amazon, the Timken are made in China but I am not sure on the Spicer products. I realize that may be my only option, because not much is made in the USA.
 
#4 ·
On my 96 4.0 I went with the Timken 513084 front hub assemblies. But you're going to pay the price for a quality hub assembly at $78/each. They weren't made it China but had an Italy stamp on them. Still seems like real HQ compared to other new ones I've seen.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ4ZZU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Note: since you're also in the salt/rust belt I had to heat the heck out of the 3 long bolts to remove them.

On my axle shafts I went with the Spicer 5-760X u-joints which are OE and HQ made in the USA.

http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-760X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1XDZG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Jeep|42&Model=Grand%20Cherokee|349&Year=1997|1997&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=10&vehicleType=automotive

I used the old skool method of pounding the old ones out while installing the new ones using sockets and a vice.

Might as well check your ball joints while you're at it. Jack the front wheel off the ground, put a long 2x4 under it from the front, then have a helper lift up/down on the 2x4 while you look for up/down play in them.

I had a top one with a lot of play and went with the Spicer 706944X socket assembly (includes upper & lower ball OE u-joint) on Amazon which are $45 for each side.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Since I had some worn TRE's and the pitman arm tie rod end I replaced all the steering parts with the below Crown HD steering kit.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I checked and all of the above should fit your 97 4.0. Know we're getting into some big bucks but something to keep in mind. Good luck.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Uniblurb for the links and the additional advice on ball joints. I do have one making noise on the passenger's side. Also for checking fit for my vehicle.

Timo, agreed... we do want lower prices so to stay competitive companies outsource to countries with lower wages. It sure is hard to find things made in this great country.

By the way, do you know the size of socket to get the axle nut off? Is it 36mm?

I have a major final in a class to prepare for this week, so I think I'll order the parts from Amazon and have them here to do the job around Fri/Sat.
 
#9 ·
No problem TC and just to note the torque on that front axle nut is 175 ft lbs. I had to buy a larger torque wrench but comes in real handy for also torquing lug nuts w/o any strain.

Many parts stores have loaner tools and I borrowed a ball joint remover/press when replacing them. Believe they also have loaner torque wrenches which should do the job but may not be the best.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I didn't want to start a fresh thread on this, and it's not old to qualify as a zombie-thread, so...

I'm going to be replacing my front axle u-joints soon. The parts are on the way. However, I'm thinking that it might be advisable to replace my original, 191K mile, hub assemblies while I'm at it. I'd really like to get something made in non-China, either Timken or SKF, but it seems impossible to find out where they're made until you get to see them.

I'm concerned about Timken now because it seems like they have reduced their warranty to 1-year from 3-year. To me, this indicates their new lack of confidence in the expected life of the product. If it was truly the same product, just made in China, they'd keep the same warranty. At least it seems that way to me.

The SKF, on the other hand, maintains a 3-year warranty, and are less than $10 more than the Timken. I'm leaning towards the SKF.

Does anyone have any recent knowledge of where most of the Timken hubs are being made today, and perhaps why they reduced the warranty? Anyone buy the SKF recently, and can offer info on the country of origin of those parts today? Thanks. Cheers.
 
#12 ·
For whatever it's worth, I just replaced TRE's and Center link. I paid a little more at Autozone, but the one here backs it's lifetime warranty so even if it's a crap part, I know I can replace it whenever I want.
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
Thanks, coralman. Timken looks like a good company. And I've been familiar with them for many years. However, as I said, the warranty issue is of a concern to me. I do see that they were deemed one of the most trustworthy companies out there. That's a good endorsement. I hope they stay with it.

I may hold off on the hub replacement anyway. I jacked the front end up today, and don't feel any noticeable play when I apply rocking pressures to 9:00 and 3:00 o'clock, or 12:00 and 6:00. There's a dragging sound, but I'm sure it's my brakes against the rotor. But seriously, how long can factory bearing last? I just turned 191K miles on the originals. It's another one of those things I don't want going bad when I'm in Baja, Mex. Thanks again, coralman. Cheers.
 
#15 ·
Yimken i believe are made in USA.. the bearings i replaced on my wagoneer inner and outer wheel bearings were timken and says madei n usa stamped or laser edged on them.


Our 4.0 has had the drivers hub replaced like 10 years ago. But the passenger is original still sounds fine. The Hubs on my 5.9 are still original too, although i think i need to replace the drivers one soon.

To check the bearing=s wiggling isnt all you should do that just shows play. Take the hubs off and hold it in your hand and spin it and listen. Quiet - good, wierd noises - bad.

It isnt hard to remove the hubs on these things unless its rusted on.. 3 bolts. once the brakes and wheels are off
 
#16 ·
It isnt hard to remove the hubs on these things unless its rusted on.. 3 bolts. once the brakes and wheels are off
I've had my front axles out before, maybe two years ago. So it isn't really about the labor right now. It's about the parts cost. With all the money I put into my A/C last month, and other stuff I've done for preventative maintenance recently, it's just starting to ache a bit. I don't want to replace the hubs if they don't need replacing. Then again, I can't help wondering why they wouldn't need replacing after 191K miles. Good thought on spinning the hub without the wheel and brake assembly. Maybe I'll try that before I order.

But seriously, how long can the original bearings last past 191,000 miles? It seems like a lot is being asked of them. And again, I'd hate to have them give up the ghost on a hot dusty road in Mexico when I had the easy opportunity to replace them while I do the u-joints. It's only money. Cheers.
 
#17 ·
TBH because they are sealed bearings, youd be suprised they can last along time. Unlike older vehicles like my wagoneer which have 3 bearings, two for the outer and inner and then the other one sorry im a little tips cant rmemeber the name of it lol.. Anyway the outer and inner arent really "sealed" like the ZJ's and water can creep in overtime, and they dont last very long.. maybe 100k or less.


TBH if the bearings sound fine, you dont hear any wummm wummm wumm wumm wumm noises then i say dont worry about it. Specially if money is a factor. Preventative maint isnt always the best... Bearings when they go bad.. they dont just go boom and your wheel falls off, you will start to hear the droning wum wum wum wum noise and even then youll still have time to replace them. Maybe im wrong, but im like 90% positive a bearing doesnt just go bad imediatly and your wheel flies off. Youd hear it long before anything happens.. And as for u joints. Just take the shaft out and look for play. If there is none dont worry about it. This is just my personal opinion of course

As for brand, i wish i could help.. Honestly i would just get the ones in the autoparts stores.. Lifetime warrenty is nice, if they go bad replace them with new ones for free. Sure taking it apart sucks. But I highely doubt they would go bad quickly even with knock off ones
 
#18 ·
As I posted earlier in this thread MrR the Timken hub assemblies I installed on my 96 were laser etched with "Italy" on them. A far cry from Canton, Ohio where my mom's whole family is from and where Timken has been located for 115 years. But they seem to be high quality just like the Timken hubs I installed on my 04 WJ which were made in Slovania.

Here in the rust/salt belt it seems like bearing are more apt to fail if the salt water can get into the bearings themselves. Mine didn't seem to be bad but after replacing almost all other front end parts it was time to change them at 200+K miles and noticed rust water stains near the bearing cover.

If doing a lot of off-roading the SKF may be the route to go but not sure if it's worth the extra $30 for a pair. Plus even if the Timken has only a 1-year warranty they will probable outlast your ZJ. Just my opinion and good luck.
 
#19 ·
The last two sets of Timken bearings I've received (ordered from Rockauto) have all been manufactured somewhere else than the USA. Doesn't really matter though, as long as the quality control is up to the job. There are SKF and Koyo bearings manufactured in countries with cheaper labour costs.

As for bearings and u-joints:
* Bearings pretty much always start making a noise before they go bad
* If it's a unit bearing hub, it's not like you need to replace it within the next 10 miles. I drove for almost two months with a bad front hub :D
* If it's a wheel bearing on a c-clip axle, or any of the R&P bearings, replace ASAP. It can/ will cause permanent damage if used for too long.
* U-joint can be bad even if it feels tight - needle bearings can be dry or worn. I've had this happen both on DS u-joints and axle shaft joints.

When buying u-joints, Spicer is the only way to go.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for your input, guys. My hubs aren't making any noticeable noise right now, so I'll probably hold off on them. Then again, I may buy them just because we never know when the quality parts are going to be replaced by relative crap.

Part of what got me thinking about bearings is remembering that the transmission guy who fixed my leaking pump-seal, said that he heard a bearing. But I had just put on the BFG A/T KO's, and found that they did make a bit of road noise, so that's all I was hearing. Still do. My Michelin LTX tires were extremely quiet, but not as off-road capable.

@timo : I had heard that about the C-clip held axles (My Dana 35), so I replaced them last year as preventative maintenance. So far, so good there. The axles were still fine.

@Uni: I believe I had read that Timken used to have a 3-year warranty. The fact that they had shortened it by a factor of 3 is not confidence enhancing. I trust that they are still a good product, and hope that they don't start having most of their stuff made in China. As we've all found though, we have no control over such things.

Cheers.
 
#21 ·
There was a video i watched on youtube not to long ago talking about wheel bearings and bearings in general.. There really is no top brand these days unless you get them custom made. They were talking about timken as well, and timken was mentioned as a brand thats pretty generic now.. Im just qouting what i heard..

When i did the bearings on my wagoneer, the old ones were timken. Im not sure if they were original though, but the races were pitted horribly, but the bearings were fine. Still replaced them, and i replaced them with generic ones from the auto parts stores. Guess ill find out how long these generic ones last wont i lol
 
#22 ·
I was going to wait a week or so before I replaced my axle u-joints, but then I got confirmation from a Bleepin' Jeep video that a failing u-joint can make a "click, click, click" noise when you start off. This is exactly what was coming from my right-front wheel. So I decided to at least do that one today, just in case I was going to do a canyon drive.

Believe it or not, after working on cars for roughly 40 years, I have never changed out a u-joint. Strange, but true. The hardest thing was figuring out that I had to press the u-joint towards one side in order to get the inside clip to be releasable. I used my OTC ball-joint/u-joint press to get the old ones out and the new ones in. It took a bit longer than I thought it would, but most of that was the learning about getting those clips to release by pressing towards one side.

It was also made easier because my brother came by. He's a pretty good mechanic, and has done quite a few u-joints over the years. It really helped to have someone steady the axle while I operated the C-clamp. My brother was very impressed with the C-clamp method, as he's loathe to break out the BFH if he doesn't have to. He saw it as more of a finesse method than the BFH. Surely he'll be borrowing my OTC tool someday when he does the u-joints on his bad-azz Scout II. Cheers.


Once I got it put back together, no more "click, click, click" from the wheel when I start off. Success. I may do the other side tomorrow. The big C-clamp worked great for the job. I used my 1/2" ratchet as well as my air impact-driver. Once it started to struggle a bit, I'd hit the end of the C-clamp screw with my big ball-peen, and it would release nicely. The u-joint didn't look awful for 191K miles, but was a lot looser along one plane than the other. The proof is in the absent click.

BTW: U-joints are light-to-medium duty Spicers. Made in the U.S.A.
 
#24 ·
Curious what the hub bearing looked like in removing it and still good & tight?
Hey Uni. The hub had some noticeable grease and hardened grim on it here and there, and around, but was still turning tightly and without grinding as it was turned. Maybe it'll go another 191K miles. ;) In truth though, I'll probably replace it in the next year or so. It's not too bad to get to. I coated the mating surface of the back of the hub-to-knuckle opening with anti-seize, so it shouldn't be too bad next time. Truth be told, it came off pretty easily this time, as I'd had it off a couple of years back.

One thing I may need to do is to get a 3/4" drive torque-wrench. My 1/2" Craftsman Microtorque only goes to 150lbs, and the axle-nut calls for 175 lbs. I took it to 150 lbs, and then gave it a little more tightening with my long 1/2" breaker-bar. Maybe by the time I do my hub-bearings, I'll have that BFTorque-wrench. :cool: Cheers.
 
#26 ·
Hey Uni,

Well, it turns out it was too early for a real victory dance. I got to the driver's side this morning. It had a bit more rust on it. It must have been from going through a decent sized puddle or two on the Baja dirt road last year. My cotter-pin was pretty rusty, as well as everything else.

The good news is that the first of the hub bolts came out with a 1/2" breaker-bar. The bad news is that the other two are not budging. I'm using a Craftsman 8pt socket that seems to fit great. However, I did spin a little on both of them. I really wasn't expecting so much resistance. Now I'm worried that I'm not going to get a good enough bite on the bolt-head to get it to back out. I've hit it with PB Blaster, and heated it a bit at the outside with a propane torch.

Since you're an expert on the torch rust-release, what's the best place and method to heat it up to get it to break the bond? I'm thinking that I should probably heat it at the knuckle towards the inside, and closest to the bolt-head. I don't want to waste what might be my last good bite on the bolt-head. Thanks for any, and all, assistance, from any who might contribute to the cause. Cheers.
Mr.R
 
#27 ·
Hey Uni,

Well, it turns out it was too early for a real victory dance. I got to the driver's side this morning. It had a bit more rust on it. It must have been from going through a decent sized puddle or two on the Baja dirt road last year. My cotter-pin was pretty rusty, as well as everything else.

The good news is that the first of the hub bolts came out with a 1/2" breaker-bar. The bad news is that the other two are not budging. I'm using a Craftsman 8pt socket that seems to fit great. However, I did spin a little on both of them. I really wasn't expecting so much resistance. Now I'm worried that I'm not going to get a good enough bite on the bolt-head to get it to back out. I've hit it with PB Blaster, and heated it a bit at the outside with a propane torch.

Since you're an expert on the torch rust-release, what's the best place and method to heat it up to get it to break the bond? I'm thinking that I should probably heat it at the knuckle towards the inside, and closest to the bolt-head. I don't want to waste what might be my last good bite on the bolt-head. Thanks for any, and all, assistance, from any who might contribute to the cause. Cheers.
Mr.R
Are you sure that 8pt socket is the correct size MrR and maybe that's why the hub bolts to knuckle are stripping the bolt heads? Believe I used a 12pt 13mm on mine if I remember correctly and even bought a new one so it would fit tight.

While those 3 long bolts may seize a little inside the hole what I found is they seize the most where the end of the bolt threads go through the tabs near the end. Was searching around for my photo of heating these outside tabs and couldn't find it. I do have the luxury of having a full size torch set and used my brazing tip for turning the outside tabs around the bolt ends almost red hot.

I know many don't like to do this but I also shocked the threads with the rust cutter while real hot and lots of smoke you don't want to breath. I also sprayed rust cutter around where the bolt head meets the metal.

It's a whole lot easier to get at those bolts if you remove the steering tie rod link near the bottom. That way you can get a straighter shot on the bolts by turning the knuckle all the way back and forth.

I also have an air gun on my wimpy 6 gal compressor and believe it may have helped to rattle the bolts loose. If you don't have one you may try to put a socket with extension on the bolt head then hit the back of the extension with a hammer to try to shock it loose.

I'll look around for that photo but believe I explained the heating pretty well. Good luck!

Ahh.. found my photo and note the tie rod is not connected.
 

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#28 ·
Thanks, Uni. While it sure seems like a tight fit with the 1/2" 8 pt., something's giving in there. I guess I'll go see if I can buy a 12 pt. 13mm to see how it bites. That's the one that's missing from my 12pt set, of course.

I no longer have an oxy/acetylene setup. I sold it years ago, as I figured I'd have no use for it. All I've got is a little propane setup.

If I can get a good bite with the 13mm 12pt, I should be OK. That is with the exception of the abs sensor that I torched. I thought it was far enough away, and that it wasn't plastic. Oh well, my abs light has been on for years anyway.

I'll let you know how it works out. Cheers.
 
#29 ·
You're welcome MrR and hopefully the 13mm 12pt socket will do the trick.

I have used a propane torch a bunch for heating metal up but just takes longer. I bought a benzene setup but wow I was going through a tank of oxygen in just a few minutes and too darn pricey.

Usually I use PB on everything but on all the front end heating I used "CRC Freeze-Off" penetrating oil which seemed to work real well. I thought maybe it would catch fire on red hot metal or even crack super hot metal but it did neither.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!
 
#30 ·
Well, Uni, you pulled my fat out of the fire again. Thanks. Fortunately, HF is only a couple of miles away. On my second trip down there, I remembered to bring one of the bolts in order to test fit. :rolleyes::drool: And yes, the 13mm of the 12 pt. spline set fit perfectly, and got bite on more "ears" than the 8 pt. While it has worked in the past, this time it had to be perfect.

Now I can say that I've actually done u-joints. They're a bit time consuming the way you have to maneuver the clamp around, etc., but it all seemed to work out well in the end...again...except for the abs sensor. That was at least three-droolers and a doh! :drool::drool::drool: :doh: Cheers.
 
#31 ·
Great MrR, YW, and glad the socket worked! :thumbsup:

Even in replacing u-joints the caveman way with a BFH I had a pretty nice setup with vice in my Workmate and a long table next to it where I could clamp down the driveshaft with a clamp to hold it steady when needed. But nice to have a press the more modern way like you... ;)
 
#33 ·
... I had a pretty nice setup with vice in my Workmate and a long table next to it where I could clamp down the driveshaft with a clamp to hold it steady when needed. But nice to have a press the more modern way like you...
Dang, why didn't I think of the Workmate? I have one that was my dad's, and it's right next to my workbench completely covered with dust, webs, etc. I've never used it. That would have been slick to have been able to hold the axle while I hit the tool with the impact-gun. I got dangerously close to dropping either the tool, which has to weigh over 5 lbs, or the axle on my foot. I'll remember that tip when I do the u-joints on my DS.

BTW: I have to admit that I had never heard of splined sockets before today. But that 13mm fit perfectly. So anyone else who's battling the 3 hub-bearing retaining bolts, that is the absolute ticket. And the set is 1/2" drive to boot. Oh, and I had to use one of those 90-degree bend, fixed breaker-bars, in order to fit the socket and bar onto the lower bolt, but it did make it. The "throw" on my 1/2" conventional breaker-bar was a bit too deep.
 
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