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Unread 09-14-2013, 09:22 AM   #16
PolkaPower
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You can have your DS lengthened to fit but it's a considerably weaker axle than a 44a although I did beat on my 35c with 33's but it was open carrier. I would guess around 100 bucks or so to fiddle with the drive shaft. Go to a driveline shop.

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Unread 09-14-2013, 09:40 AM   #17
joe19934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
You can have your DS lengthened to fit but it's a considerably weaker axle than a 44a although I did beat on my 35c with 33's but it was open carrier. I would guess around 100 bucks or so to fiddle with the drive shaft. Go to a driveline shop.
I heard about a bolt on extender the Parts Dealer did a little research and said people have been swapping out rearends and using the adapters.
Does anyone know where I could get one ?
Thank you all !
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Unread 09-14-2013, 09:45 AM   #18
PolkaPower
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Originally Posted by joe19934 View Post
I heard about a bolt on extender the Parts Dealer did a little research and said people have been swapping out rearends and using the adapters.
Does anyone know where I could get one ?
Thank you all !
Don't even worry about that. The u joint adapters are for when your yoke is a different size than the drive shaft joint or vice verse. Like if you have a 5.9 rear shaft which is thicker and a regular D44a from a 5.2 with a smaller size yoke, you would need an adapter so the larger joint fits with the smaller yoke. As for a bolt on shaft extension, that just sounds like a terrible idea. The drive shafts need to be balanced. If they are not it will drive like crap. Don't try to make a small mistake into a larger one. It will cost more money and be a bigger pita in the end.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:29 AM   #19
newfieZJ
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35 is a downgrade for sure . I'd bite the bullet and bring it back .

There is a hybrid u-joint to bolt the shaft to the 35 axle . I get it from NAPA . Precision part number 353 .

All this fooling around will cost what the axle did in the first place , just get a 44a and bolt it in , maybe need a u-joint is all .
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:29 AM   #20
joe19934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post

Don't even worry about that. The u joint adapters are for when your yoke is a different size than the drive shaft joint or vice verse. Like if you have a 5.9 rear shaft which is thicker and a regular D44a from a non 5.2 with a smaller size yoke, you would need an adapter so the larger joint fits with the smaller yoke. As for a bolt on shaft extension, that just sounds like a terrible idea. The drive shafts need to be balanced. If they are not it will drive like crap. Don't try to make a small mistake into a larger one. It will cost more money and be a bigger pita in the end.
Wow that just sucks I guess I can resell it or see if he can pick it up not driving almost 2 hours to return it.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #21
newfieZJ
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2 hours to return it ........crappy
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:33 AM   #22
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I think you have a computer virus




I think you have a computer virus



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Unread 09-17-2013, 06:29 PM   #23
joe19934
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OK after a few hours over the past 2 days I got the rear out.
I took the cover off went to remove the retainer bolt and only a half inch or so came out.
It looked like the previous owner snapped it or someone looking at the truck for them snapped it.
Ok I was like now what ???? I hammered the Carrier Pin ( its ok its not damaged ) through to the other side and was then able to remove the axles to find the right side scored ( the left side looks ok )
I then removed the Carrier and the bearings are bad on it so I'm guessing the Pinion bearings need to be done as well along with the left axle bearing.
Well now to find out the cost for everything
I have not been able to find a good used Dana 44a anywhere around me.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 06:26 PM   #24
riot1987
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Bearings are cheap. Might as well do both axle bearings while your at it
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Unread 09-18-2013, 06:51 PM   #25
joe19934
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I found a Complete Dana 44a

It needs all the Bearings done and the right axle is scored...
I managed to get the Cross Pin Locking Bolt out ( took a few threads out but its still ok ) and needs that as well.
I found a complete rear for $400 delivered to my house and will have it tomorrow morning.
Getting a customary Junk Yard 30 day guaranty on it.
Hopefully I will get my cash back on the Dana 35 Friday and the good thing is I'm not making the 1 1/2 to 2 hour drive back he is coming my way...
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Unread 09-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #26
5-90
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Originally Posted by joe19934 View Post
OK just checked it and a magnet sticks to it so I'm guessing you're right its a Dana35...
I just called the Owner of the Parts Yard and it was taken out of a 1998 Grand Cherokee with a 5.2L so I'm guessing the owner of the Jeep swapped it out and the person I bought it from has no Idea what he's selling ????????
Can my driveshaft be modified or will it work as is for now ?
What if the guy has the rear driveshaft that came out of that Jeep maybe that has been modified to work already ?
A driveshaft can be shortened, but not lenghtened effectively.

As far as the axle type - are you sure it's not a 44 vice a 44a? The D44 also has a cast iron centre section.

What shape is the cover? Check the webs to the side tubes - is there a "35" or a "44" cast into them? Or, look at the right-hand tube (looking from the cover side) a few inches away from the centre section for a six-digit number with a one- or two-digit suffix, stamped into the tube. Write that number down, go to the Dana Expert site (www.dana.com, follow the links) and plug the number in there. That number is the Bill of Materials (BoM) number, and it will give with axle model, original application, and original configuration information.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 08:57 PM   #27
joe19934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
A driveshaft can be shortened, but not lenghtened effectively.

As far as the axle type - are you sure it's not a 44 vice a 44a? The D44 also has a cast iron centre section.

What shape is the cover? Check the webs to the side tubes - is there a "35" or a "44" cast into them? Or, look at the right-hand tube (looking from the cover side) a few inches away from the centre section for a six-digit number with a one- or two-digit suffix, stamped into the tube. Write that number down, go to the Dana Expert site (www.dana.com, follow the links) and plug the number in there. That number is the Bill of Materials (BoM) number, and it will give with axle model, original application, and original configuration information.
Thanks but I'm getting the exact same rear Dana 44a out of a 1996 JGC V8 w/ Aluminum housing tomorrow.
It has a 30 day money back guaranty on it, standard JunkYard policy
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Unread 09-18-2013, 09:01 PM   #28
riot1987
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Damn dude, 4 hundo for a D44. I got a perfect 8.8 from the yard for 125 smackers. Things are pricey where you are
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Unread 09-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #29
joe19934
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Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
Damn dude, 4 hundo for a D44. I got a perfect 8.8 from the yard for 125 smackers. Things are pricey where you are
Yup Welcome to Delaware !
There aren't many Junkyards around here
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Unread 09-18-2013, 09:23 PM   #30
joe19934
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Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
Damn dude, 4 hundo for a D44. I got a perfect 8.8 from the yard for 125 smackers. Things are pricey where you are

Ok but what did it cost you total to get it to fit ?
Did you get the Truss to install it
Thats about $350 on top of your $125
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