Front Hub Bolts - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
vlackattack
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Front Hub Bolts

Replacing the front wheel hubs and the heads of 2 of the bolts are completely rounded off. Can I just buy bolts of the same size/thread/length to replace them or are they special?

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post #2 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 07:50 AM
danimal45
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Make sure you get high strength bolts. I'm not sure what strength rating they are, but you'll need to match that.

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post #3 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I was planning on getting 10.9 if I can just use regular bolts.
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post #4 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 09:08 AM
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I read those hub bolts are grade 8 so 10.9 should work. I also read they couldn't find them at Lowes or Home Depot. Unsure if the below size is correct or not but they're getting them from a specialty fastener place?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/n.../#post36580922

Not sure if you have room or flat surface for installing a flat washer under the head. But may be a good idea since the OE bolts have a flange-head.

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post #5 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 09:35 AM
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Why not just get the correct OEM Mopar part


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post #6 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
vlackattack
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Thanks for that link Uni, that size sounds right, and there's a Fastenal near me that I was planning on getting them from. Mopar is an option, but I doubt the dealer would have any in stock and I'd rather not wait a couple days to get $5 bolts if there's a cheaper solution I could get faster.
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post #7 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 11:48 AM
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With a fastenal there's a reasonable chance. I grab spares at a JY, but that probably won't work as well for you in NY.


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post #8 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 12:58 PM
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post #9 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 05:25 PM
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There's nothing special about the hub bolts, other than the fact that in OEM form they need a 12-point socket. If you can get standard hex-head replacements cheaper (and who *can't* get fasteners much cheaper than OEM price?), there's no reason why you shouldn't use them.
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post #10 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlackattack View Post
Thanks for that link Uni, that size sounds right, and there's a Fastenal near me that I was planning on getting them from. Mopar is an option, but I doubt the dealer would have any in stock and I'd rather not wait a couple days to get $5 bolts if there's a cheaper solution I could get faster.
No problem vlackattack. Too bad we aren't closer since I installed new OE hub bolts but was able to clean up my old ones real good afterwards.

I even tempered the old bolts!
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #11 of 23 Old 06-18-2017, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
There's nothing special about the hub bolts, other than the fact that in OEM form they need a 12-point socket. If you can get standard hex-head replacements cheaper (and who *can't* get fasteners much cheaper than OEM price?), there's no reason why you shouldn't use them.
OEM bolts are flanged, and the bolt shanks close to the flange are thicker than on standard ISO bolts of the same size. IIRC the shank is also longer than normal.
This is to ensure a tighter fit in the knuckle bores.

That being said, it is possible to use class 10.9 or class 12.9 allen-head bolts with hardened washers. Thing is, OEM bolts last 20+ years, so there really is no need to use anyhthing else if you ask me..

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post #12 of 23 Old 06-19-2017, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Thing is, OEM bolts last 20+ years, so there really is no need to use anyhthing else if you ask me..
All depends on your circumstances, doesn't it? If you need them NOW and the dealer has to order them in, but the hardware store has equivalents in stock at a fraction of the price...
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post #13 of 23 Old 06-19-2017, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
OEM bolts are flanged, and the bolt shanks close to the flange are thicker than on standard ISO bolts of the same size. IIRC the shank is also longer than normal.
Are you sure the shank is thicker than standard ISO bolts by the head? Just based on the pictures it looks like the thicker section near the flange is the same diameter as the major diameter of the threads and the rest of the shank thinner. That would make the thicker section normal ISO size and the rest less, i.e. a reduced shank bolt. If that's the case, and I don't have one on hand to throw a micrometer on to check, you could use a regular ISO bolt to replace it and it would pilot just fine. The reduced shank gives more shank elongation per unit torque which tends to make bolts more shock resistant, they have more give to them.

I think I wouldn't have a problem using standard flanged head, 10.9 class bolts in there but I'd have to think about the torque specs. The OEM bolts torque to 75 ft/lbs. The standard torque for class 10.9 12 mm bolts is 93 ft/lbs for dry uncoated threads. The OEMs probably less due to the reduced shank.

Just a quick google found a few bolt options, Crown, OEM, Dorman, etc. some on Amazon with available next day shipping. I'd probably stick to OEM.

EDIT: Added some lines to the picture to illustrate reduced shank.
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post #14 of 23 Old 06-19-2017, 08:36 AM
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I'll have to re-measure, but IIRC I've checked it at some point years ago and found the OEM bolt to have a larger diameter shank at the flange compared to a normal bolt.

I could be remembering it all wrong though, I really need to check it out


I wouldn't have a problem running a standard ISO flange- head bolt either, and if that is the choice of getting something right now, I'd get 'em. As for tigheting torque, I'd go with factory spec even with a standard class 10.9 bolt.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #15 of 23 Old 06-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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I'm using Class 10.9 hex head bolts. I used a washer under neath. Mine are a little longer than OE, but not enough to hurt anything.
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