Frame rust repair and IRO Frame Stiffener install! (Pics) - JeepForum.com

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 13 Old 06-21-2016, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
Henyaman
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 38
Frame rust repair and IRO Frame Stiffener install! (Pics)

So I finally caved and realized I HAD to get the rust fixed in my rail where the AC ruined it for years. With the long arms in the front it was just going to be a matter of time with the extra stress. So I found a good local welder and off we go!

First up, a pic of the damage. It started to stress crack on the side recently so it was time/dangerous:
20160614_193501-medium-.jpg

Crossmember off. Not looking too hot...
20160616_085452-medium-.jpg

This is all that was really holding me in on that side. The other side was solid, just the AC/Passenger side was bad. I was surprised how much was eating top down too, it was thinner than I anticipated.
20160616_153458-medium-.jpg

After he plated and added angle steel in. Inside was done as well but it was an odd angle to get a picture of:
20160616_153322-medium-.jpg

IRO stiffener, which also covers the once weak spot and has pre-drilled holes for their crossmember:
20160617_193904-medium-.jpg

Plug welded, ground, and primed:
20160618_170500-medium-.jpg

Done and painted right side (Where there was just a hole)
20160619_171903-medium-.jpg

And the driver side, which just got the stiffener and paint:
20160621_094811-medium-.jpg

Given how relatively cheap the stiffener is and how common that area is to rust, I would recommend the stiffeners without hesitation. I don't have to worry about randomly dying now when it gives way, and you can tell when going over speed bumps its the suspension soaking it up, and the chassis back and forth is much less than it used to be. Maybe that part was weaker than I realized, but going over bumps at an angle would toss me back and forth, now its just one wheel at a time. Very happy!


1996 ZJ 5.2L, 33x12.5 BFG AT
IRO: 5.5" Kit, OTK, Exhaust, BPE, Stiffeners
KOR: PS Brace
Henyaman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 06-22-2016, 05:34 PM
coralman
USER OF PARTS CATALOGS
 
coralman's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 7,589
That was a lot of welding but it looked good as far as my knowledge goes. What do the bolts screw into?

Info on projects and repairs categorized by system

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Originally Posted by HighLonesome
lol...if life is as a simple as a 5.9 making you happy, I'd say go ahead and buy it on impulse. ZJs are the way of Zen. Wax on, wax off
coralman is online now  
post #3 of 13 Old 06-22-2016, 06:13 PM
Ted_Z
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 53
Aren't you supposed to weld up the vertical seams?
Ted_Z is offline  
post #4 of 13 Old 06-22-2016, 07:19 PM
kg6mov
Hears the voices
 
kg6mov's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 11,762
Yes.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 06-22-2016, 09:15 PM
LowBudgetZJ
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: SWFL
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
What do the bolts screw into?
The iro cross member uses a combo of the existing tapped holes and new holes that the installer must drill in the rails.

98 ZJ 4.0 42RE NP242
75 CJ5 232 T14 D20.....STOLEN
LowBudgetZJ is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 06-22-2016, 11:15 PM
Candymancan
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 5,548
Looks better then my welds, well i assume you cleaned em up with a grinder first.. my welds of course my first ones looked like blobs of poops. However, I suggest you do not stack plates over metal.. This is one big thing that actually causes rust.. I have several area's on my wagoneer where the c channle rusted out due to support brackets and other peices of metal bolted on top or overlaping and over the years it completetly rotted the frame behing it, and thanks to none of the previous owners removing the brackets.. I have to cut out and re-weld the c channle.

ZJ's also rust in areas where metal is stacked on metal.. The frame is rusting because the frame is joined together by two peices inside there, the frame also likes to rust where the trans cross member is bolted to it, and also likes to rust where the trailer hitch and gas skid is bolted to it.

Its not the A/C really causing it, its rusting from the torque box inside out, my moms 4.0 had the same issue
Candymancan is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 06-23-2016, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
Henyaman
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 38
We primed everything before welding so its as good as its going to get for now. Give that the total thickness there is well over 1/2" and probably closer to 3/4", its probably going to outlast the rest. I may get one of those long attachment paint cans and spray inside the rails where it was repaired too. Good news is I am in NC now so the salt and snow doesn't do the damage it does elsewhere.
Every time I go to the junkyard here it makes me mad how nice and clean these southern frames are. Of course, mine was from up north so I wasn't so lucky.
Oddly the other side of the frame was fine, nothing structural at all. This side was 100x worse. Thats why I got the stiffeners mainly to beef up the area that is known to rust, so with that extra 3/8 or so I bought as much time as I can!

1996 ZJ 5.2L, 33x12.5 BFG AT
IRO: 5.5" Kit, OTK, Exhaust, BPE, Stiffeners
KOR: PS Brace
Henyaman is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 06-23-2016, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
Henyaman
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted_Z View Post
Aren't you supposed to weld up the vertical seams?
AH, it didn't come with any paperwork so the welder just did what I told him to.
I thought the breaks were just to form fitment, but if they need welded as well I will have it done when we do the sliders and floor pan next.
All my other IRO came with paperwork but this one. It just said plug weld on the site so that's all we did. The picture on their site is just a hold up, not welded in pic so I wasn't sure.

1996 ZJ 5.2L, 33x12.5 BFG AT
IRO: 5.5" Kit, OTK, Exhaust, BPE, Stiffeners
KOR: PS Brace
Henyaman is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 06-23-2016, 10:39 AM
kg6mov
Hears the voices
 
kg6mov's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 11,762
This is an XJ, but yes you're supposed to weld pretty much everything.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 06-24-2016, 02:15 AM
Candymancan
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 5,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henyaman View Post
We primed everything before welding so its as good as its going to get for now. Give that the total thickness there is well over 1/2" and probably closer to 3/4", its probably going to outlast the rest. I may get one of those long attachment paint cans and spray inside the rails where it was repaired too. Good news is I am in NC now so the salt and snow doesn't do the damage it does elsewhere.
Every time I go to the junkyard here it makes me mad how nice and clean these southern frames are. Of course, mine was from up north so I wasn't so lucky.
Oddly the other side of the frame was fine, nothing structural at all. This side was 100x worse. Thats why I got the stiffeners mainly to beef up the area that is known to rust, so with that extra 3/8 or so I bought as much time as I can!

Itll still rust over time but that is pretty thick... Just remember with an airbag system and a frame that stiff your airbags might not go off.


Also if your frame was that rusty i suggest take a good look inside the torque box. Its that box your picture here on the very far right thats partially painted.. the frame rusts inside there.

Here is what it looks like it looks perfectly fine until you peal the undercoat away and then the metal just falls off and i found the frame rusting in here. Even my 5.9 zj with 0 rust has surface rust in this stupid box
Attached Thumbnails
20160619_171903%20(Medium).jpg  
Candymancan is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 06-24-2016, 05:24 AM
PolkaPower
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 19,784
I am under the impression that the airbags deploy with a measure of deceleration not impact.
PolkaPower is offline  
post #12 of 13 Old 06-24-2016, 07:43 AM
Pierre_r
Registered User
1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sweden
Posts: 974
Its a 15years+ vehicle so even with the bad frame i would not count on it being deployed at all in a crash.
I know Volvo only expected them to last for about 9years in their 940model.its about the same age as the zj,s are now.

Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 -89
Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 -90 (partsjeep)
Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 -93
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 6.5TD -94
Chevrolet C20 6.2 -82
Pierre_r is online now  
post #13 of 13 Old 06-24-2016, 10:35 AM
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central
Posts: 7,422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
Its not the A/C really causing it, its rusting from the torque box inside out, my moms 4.0 had the same issue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henyaman View Post
Oddly the other side of the frame was fine, nothing structural at all. This side was 100x worse. Thats why I got the stiffeners mainly to beef up the area that is known to rust, so with that extra 3/8 or so I bought as much time as I can!

Just curious Candy why you think the AC drain water dumping into the passenger side frame wouldn't cause it to rust much more than the driver's side of the frame w/o drain water?

My 96 is the same way with the passenger side frame rusting out much more than the driver's side. I blame it on the AC drain water sitting in there rusting it from the inside out. And reason I routed the drain water into the wheel well area outside the frame in the below write-up I did.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a.../#post31953314

If you look at post #11 you can see where the frame box is rusted a lot more on the passenger side than the driver's side in the 2 photos.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/a.../#post31966554

Poor design to begin with in routing the AC water into the frame. And it doesn't help the drain hole in the bottom/front has a lip on the inside about 3/16"-1/4" tall which helps trap the water instead of letting it drain out. You can see this in the 2nd above photo.

PS. guess I never though about my airbags not deploying because they're too old.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.
Uniblurb is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome