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07-03-2009, 07:18 AM
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#46
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,794
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Kruzin - Running 15W-40 in a gas engine isn't in itself a problem. It may not be needed, depending on the engine, but if the environment is warm enough, it doesn't hurt anything. I run 15W-40 in the GAS 454s in my boat and have NEVER had a dry-start problem (then again, my filters do mount upright not sideways). I do it primarily because, as SnowLeopard said, multi-vis oil does break down (manual says use straight 40 weight, I've never done it as I feel it's too thick when cold). If it's in hot weather or driven hard, the heavier oil isn't a bad thing.
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07-03-2009, 08:28 AM
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#47
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Columbus
Posts: 1,546
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RidinAround, I assume you are an amsoil dealer. I have always been a fan of amsoil.
In my old solid lifter camaro, I use Joe Gibs oil and a bottle of zddp Plus. I use this combination for the zinc and phosphorus levels.
Do you know what the zinc/phosphorous levels are in the 15/40 amsoil products?
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07-03-2009, 10:33 AM
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#48
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman
That's the basic cheap purolator. Have you cut open a purolator pureone? They are the premium version, and are textured yellow. I work at advance and can stock up on these for plenty cheap, but if they're garbage inside, I'd rather spend the coin for WIX or amsoil.
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Here:
__________________
2004 WJ Laredo-selectrac 242-I6- Custom XJ intake w/Amsoil cone filter- PSC HD Pump & Res- PSC ported box- B&M trans cooler- B&M PS cooler- Custom chevy 1 Ton over the knuckle steering- Rough Stuff 1 Ton tierod & draglink ends- Saguaro 4x4 Front 3/4" shackles, Rear hitch & Warn 3/4" shackle-Mopar Front skid,Gastank skid -IRO TC skid- RRO super sliders- 6.5'' IRO critical path lift -IRO extended rear arms-Bilstein 5125 shocks -IRO F&R 6.5'' Bump stops-Carolina drive shaft-16x7 black soft 8's - 34'' Super swampers-Yukon 4.11 gears -Ultimate RCV shafts - LockRight Locked ECGS bolt in rear D60 -35 spline Chomloy shafts -BTF HD diff cover -IRO Adj A-arm-OX Locked super D30 -OX HD diff cover -OX drive away lock-Rock Krawler d30 truss-Stillen rotors & Matrix pads-JKS Adj Track Bar-JKS Quicker discos -Relocated OME SD-40 Steering Stabilizer-BDS stabilizer brackets-Relocated washer bottle-Removed rear sway bar-Cobra CB-TomTom one XL navi-alpine deck
Still to come: Flowmaster 50suv
October 2011 GCOTM Winner
Some of my videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/LockedWJ?feature=mhee
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyjp2
I burnout on puppies and kittens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwmaniacx
Lets not and say we didn't.
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07-03-2009, 10:58 AM
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#49
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 30
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I just recently switched from Fram (used for years) to Mopar on advice from JF. All I can say is that after 3500 miles my oil looked darn near new with the Mopar where it used to look fairly dirty (black almost) with the Fram.
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07-03-2009, 12:16 PM
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#50
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 402
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I understand spend a little more now, save a lot later, but the mopar filter is 1/3 the price of all the others recommended and it looks pretty good to me. Plus it's easier the justify when you're changing your oil every 3000K, if I paid more for my oil changes, then I'd just try to extend them longer which wouldn't be good. So for the $1 more than the Fram at least buy the Mopar. Besides all this mess, the engine isn't going to be the problem, it's the TC and tranny that always gets neglected and fails.
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07-03-2009, 12:18 PM
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#51
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Posts: 362
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I never liked Fram. Even when I was a kid. I run my Jeep with a Mopar filter, because I know that every other filter is basically made from the same stuff, and I just am paying for the Name that is on the box. Unless it costs more than my high quality Dino oil it's not gonna be designed any better than the $5 Mopar filter.
an Amsoil filter costs 2-3 bucks more than a K&N, which costs 11-12 bucks. my Oil costs about $13 for 6 quarts of Mobil 1 Clean 5000 Dino oil. If the filter is gonna cost more than my oil....
The Previous owner I bought it from used a Fram filter. And the oil was black. So far, the oil looks nearly new now using Mopar filters. The stuff that comes out of the filter when I cut it open is black, but the dipstick oil is pretty clean. Of course, its getting cleaner every change considering the amount of sludge that is getting cleaned out each change. The first change with the Mopar the filter was clogged with sludge, so the oil was between clean and black. Now with 20k since I bought it, the oil is pretty darn clean.
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07-03-2009, 12:20 PM
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#52
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Best taken in small doses
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: jonesboro, AR
Posts: 3,961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Some_Anchovies
I never liked Fram. Even when I was a kid. I run my Jeep with a Mopar filter, because I know that every other filter is basically made from the same stuff, and I just am paying for the Name that is on the box. Unless it costs more than my high quality Dino oil it's not gonna be designed any better than the $5 Mopar filter.
an Amsoil filter costs 2-3 bucks more than a K&N, which costs 11-12 bucks. my Oil costs about $13 for 6 quarts of Mobil 1 Clean 5000 Dino oil. If the filter is gonna cost more than my oil....
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What costs more.....the air filter or what you pass through it.
__________________
Miss Amy's sensibilities and the language filter prevent me from telling you what I really think about you.
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07-03-2009, 12:25 PM
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#53
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Posts: 362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turtlerace
What costs more.....the air filter or what you pass through it.

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We're not talkin about air filters here.
I had a K&N Air filter once... I took it out and its in my back seat. A new paper filter is now in the airbox.
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07-03-2009, 07:38 PM
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#54
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: elkins wv
Posts: 100
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i did the same thing anchovies i tossed my K&N, i swear it made my TB oily and dirty.
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07-03-2009, 07:51 PM
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#55
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wj03grandy
i did the same thing anchovies i tossed my K&N, i swear it made my TB oily and dirty.
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It did. The best hi flow filter on the market is from Amsoil. It is a dry filter, so none of the messy oil. It flows like a K&N and filters like paper. I absolutely love the thing.
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07-03-2009, 07:53 PM
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#56
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ04
Here:

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Thanks for posting that up. They look different on the outside now, but the innards probably haven't changed.
From the picture it looks semi decent, but not as good as a WIX. What was your impression of it?
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07-03-2009, 08:45 PM
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#57
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rochester, Illinois
Posts: 2,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman
That's the basic cheap purolator. Have you cut open a purolator pureone? They are the premium version, and are textured yellow. I work at advance and can stock up on these for plenty cheap, but if they're garbage inside, I'd rather spend the coin for WIX or amsoil.
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I'm busy all week this week & through the weekend, I'll get one early next week.
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07-03-2009, 08:57 PM
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#58
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rochester, Illinois
Posts: 2,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmonson
RidinAround, I assume you are an amsoil dealer. I have always been a fan of amsoil.
In my old solid lifter camaro, I use Joe Gibs oil and a bottle of zddp Plus. I use this combination for the zinc and phosphorus levels.
Do you know what the zinc/phosphorous levels are in the 15/40 amsoil products?
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Our RD series of race oils are what Joe Gibbs wanted to sell as his oil. He cam to Amsoil & asked them to private lable it for him & Amsoil declined.
Our RD oils also have a Phosphorus PPM of 1424, w/o dumping an additive in it. Out of curiosity, what do you pay per quart for the JG stuff?
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07-03-2009, 09:11 PM
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#59
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman
Thanks for posting that up. They look different on the outside now, but the innards probably haven't changed.
From the picture it looks semi decent, but not as good as a WIX. What was your impression of it?
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Don't know...I never used the PureOne its just a picture I had of it, I use Wix/Napa gold and love it
__________________
2004 WJ Laredo-selectrac 242-I6- Custom XJ intake w/Amsoil cone filter- PSC HD Pump & Res- PSC ported box- B&M trans cooler- B&M PS cooler- Custom chevy 1 Ton over the knuckle steering- Rough Stuff 1 Ton tierod & draglink ends- Saguaro 4x4 Front 3/4" shackles, Rear hitch & Warn 3/4" shackle-Mopar Front skid,Gastank skid -IRO TC skid- RRO super sliders- 6.5'' IRO critical path lift -IRO extended rear arms-Bilstein 5125 shocks -IRO F&R 6.5'' Bump stops-Carolina drive shaft-16x7 black soft 8's - 34'' Super swampers-Yukon 4.11 gears -Ultimate RCV shafts - LockRight Locked ECGS bolt in rear D60 -35 spline Chomloy shafts -BTF HD diff cover -IRO Adj A-arm-OX Locked super D30 -OX HD diff cover -OX drive away lock-Rock Krawler d30 truss-Stillen rotors & Matrix pads-JKS Adj Track Bar-JKS Quicker discos -Relocated OME SD-40 Steering Stabilizer-BDS stabilizer brackets-Relocated washer bottle-Removed rear sway bar-Cobra CB-TomTom one XL navi-alpine deck
Still to come: Flowmaster 50suv
October 2011 GCOTM Winner
Some of my videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/LockedWJ?feature=mhee
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyjp2
I burnout on puppies and kittens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwmaniacx
Lets not and say we didn't.
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07-03-2009, 10:01 PM
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#60
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Posts: 362
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On one note...
Does anyone know if the Mopar filter for the V8 grand will fit on the I6? I've noticed there are 2 filters for the ZJ at the stores, one being much taller than the other.
will it screw on and not leak?
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