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Unread 12-29-2006, 09:22 AM   #1
HighLonesome
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Ford 3.8 efan project begins!

Yet another writeup. My goal is to make this one very detailed. After gathering all the parts, I realized the swap isn't a cakewalk. It will cool the '95 transplanted 5.9 motor. I'll be wiring it up for 2-speed operation with no manual or AC control right now. It will be auto only and I'll try set the temps for 200 degrees low and 220 high. Time to find some sheet metal and get started. Here's the parts list:

1 Taurus/Sable electric fan - I got a brand new replacement part on ebay
1 50 amp relay - NTE R51-5D40-12F
1 70 amp relay - NTE R51-1D70-12F
1 70 amp relay socket - NTE R95-160A
1 50 amp relay socket
2 Flexalite thermoswitches - Jeg's PN 400-31147
1 male electical connector for the efan - $2 at junkyard
2 3/8" copper lugs - to attach to battery side terminals
2 battery side terminal bolts
2 6-amp freewheeling diodes - NTE5814
1 1-farad capacitor
assorted copper grounding lugs
assorted nylon hardware
assorted wire - 10 ga on down
misc hardware
1 fuse holder - Littlefuse PN 0MAB0001XP (shown below)
1 50-amp fuse (shown below)
sheet metal to assemble controller on (not shown)
wire loom (not shown)

efanbegin.jpg  

Last edited by HighLonesome; 12-29-2006 at 02:27 PM..
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Unread 12-29-2006, 10:31 AM   #2
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How I'm going to wire it up. Simple as it gets..just want to get it going right now. It will be in battery killer mode. Runs until the thermoswitches shut it down. No way to force it on or off.

THIS DIAGRAM IS THE WRONG WAY TO WIRE IT. YOU WILL BURN UP YOUR FAN. SCROLL DOWN FOR THE CORRECT DIAGRAM. POST 15 works.
efandiagram.jpg  

Last edited by HighLonesome; 05-11-2007 at 08:47 AM..
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Unread 12-29-2006, 12:28 PM   #3
micifus
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Not a big fan of the capcitor across the battery. If that shorts out bad things can happen. shouldnt that cap be connected to ground? preferibly to the body.
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Unread 12-29-2006, 02:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micifus
Not a big fan of the capcitor across the battery. If that shorts out bad things can happen. shouldnt that cap be connected to ground? preferibly to the body.
All capacitors are installed 'electrically' across the battery and all electrolytic capacitors have leakage. The older they get the more they leak. Putting it close to the fan motor is optimum due to the resistance of wire. I'll see how it works out. Not sure where I am going to mount it. I had no idea these caps were so big. It is connected to ground. Ground is ground is ground...battery negative is the best ground. The wellspring of ground so to speak. All grounds lead to battery negative just like all roads lead to Rome.

The cap, fuse, and fuseholder. The holder (Littlefuse PN 0MAB0001XP) is good to 60 amps.
cap.jpg  
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Unread 01-14-2007, 01:03 PM   #5
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Part 1 - Prep

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the grille.
3. Remove the front hood seal. Use a door panel fastener remover to pry out the plastic connectors. You may be able to reuse them.
4. Remove the radiator cover. All 10mm. Set the radiator cover out of the way on the right side of the engine bay, since it's connected to the hood release.
5. Remove the clutch fan and shroud. There are 4 holes on the front of the water pump pulley. Put bolts or screws in 2 of the holes, and wedge a long prybar between them. Have a friend hold the prybar while you wack the clutch nut with a big adjustable wrench and a big hammer. Works every time. Pull the fan and shroud straight up and out. Be careful not to ding the radiator.
6. The OEM fan shroud is two piece. Split the shroud by prying out the plastic connectors and removing the lower small section.


Part 2 - Mounting

1. The Ford efan only covers about 75% of the V8 ZJ radiator. I decided to use the old shroud and make the new efan part of the old shroud. Not because this would give more radiator coverage, but for ease of mounting. Mount the Ford efan to the OEM shroud using steel spacers and neoprene and steel fender washers. There are two places where you do not need spacers. You need to make one small arcing cut on the OEM shroud. On the top pic, the topmost mount and the rightmost mount do not require a spacer. Line things up, and drill and connect the top mount first. I used neoprene washers wherever a washer touched plastic. On the left side of the bottom photo, you can see the cut made to the OEM shroud. I bolted the two together at 5 points as you can see in the top pic. The three bolt points on the bottom photo required the steel spacers.
shroud1.jpg   shroud2.jpg  
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Unread 01-15-2007, 05:20 AM   #6
ratmonkey
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capacitors only hide problems in car electrical circuits temporarily, you'd be better off with a second battery and/or higher power alternator.

coming from car audio i hate capacitors with a passion.

if you must use it, do not put it across the battery terminals. fuse it with an appropriate amperage fuse for the wire gauge between the cap and the battery and ground it to the chassis. then run the hot side to your relays.

running it across the battery like that defeats the purpose of the capacitor, which is to buffer the start up draw of the e-fan.
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Unread 01-15-2007, 11:53 AM   #7
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I'm going to make the capacitor a separate project if I do it at all. I want the capacitor to be ignition switched. I got to get the efan working, since the Jeep is down because of it.

Part 3- Wiring

I made the fan/shroud a self-contained unit. You simply provide 12vdc and ground to the unit. Some pics below. The freewheeling diodes are hidden under convolute tubing. Components are readily accessable, and the entire assembly can be easily removed. The fan/shroud is ready to drop in.
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Unread 01-15-2007, 11:56 AM   #8
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Pics of mounting locations
ready1.jpg   ready2.jpg  
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Unread 01-15-2007, 12:04 PM   #9
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Cool.
I would do it differently though. I would tie Low speed with AC clutch through relay and have High speed dedicated for the engine cooling with T set at 200
I am not familiar with Flexalite thermo switches from Jegs but unless they can be set to ON OFF mode with 20 F delta (doubt it) you are going to fry your fan. These fans don’t like L and H speeds being powered at the same time.
Also, I would wire any low Amp manual switch into control circuit for safety.
How many ppl you know who disconnect the battery before sticking their hands under the hood?
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Unread 01-15-2007, 12:09 PM   #10
ArloGuthroJeep
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I am confused, why are you trying to use a cap at all? The fans surge draw shouldn't be high enough to warrant one...
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Unread 01-15-2007, 12:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep
I am confused, why are you trying to use a cap at all? The fans surge draw shouldn't be high enough to warrant one...
Don't use the cap. It could actually defeat the purpose of your freewheeling diodes. It can store the charge and can cause even more arcing if there is resonance. If anything, I would also use these diodes across relays.
It is always a good idea for circuits that has a computer (PCM) because the kickback from the coil can cause problems.
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Unread 01-15-2007, 01:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123
Cool.
I would do it differently though. I would tie Low speed with AC clutch through relay and have High speed dedicated for the engine cooling with T set at 200
I am not familiar with Flexalite thermo switches from Jegs but unless they can be set to ON OFF mode with 20 F delta (doubt it) you are going to fry your fan. These fans don’t like L and H speeds being powered at the same time.
Also, I would wire any low Amp manual switch into control circuit for safety.
How many ppl you know who disconnect the battery before sticking their hands under the hood?
The initial purpose for the cap was to keep the lights from dimming when the efan cycled. I've got so many bad replies about the cap I won't be using it. I do have a 150 amp alternator being rebuilt right now that will go in later.

I checked the OEM 5.9 wiring diagrams and the efan runs with H and L being powered at the same time. <---EDIT: THIS IS WRONG! Both efans use the same motor.

Last edited by HighLonesome; 01-23-2010 at 09:17 AM..
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Unread 01-15-2007, 01:33 PM   #13
zaq123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five.nein

I checked the OEM 5.9 wiring diagrams and the efan runs with H and L being powered at the same time. Both efans use the same motor.

If you 100% sure, try this as a test:

Connect L side to the battery "+" and than connect H side to the same terminal at the same time

PS. If you fry it, don't blame me plz
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Unread 01-15-2007, 01:36 PM   #14
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You are right, with power to H and L the efan runs at a sickly medium speed. Well, back to the drawing board. The Jeep is running though, I disabled the H, and got the L adjusted so it cycles at idle.
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Unread 01-15-2007, 02:05 PM   #15
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Hey zaq123 thanks a lot for pointing out the wiring problem. The new diagram:
efandiagram.jpg  
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