Folks with 7" lift on 35's, how bad is it on the street/highway? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
THEhomelessONE
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Folks with 7" lift on 35's, how bad is it on the street/highway?

Thinking about going with 4.88 hp30/8.8 axles with traclocks, 408 around 450+hp and a 7" claytons kit on 35's for the niner. Just wanted to hear some reviews before committing. Those axles should be strong enough right? Don't do much off roading, maybe a few trips max to the sierras. Mostly worried about highway manners and windy roads. Looks like 7" clear 35's with very minimal massaging and 5.5" needs some cutting. Thanks.

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post #2 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 08:45 AM
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Personally I would never take anything above a 3 inch lift on a highway.

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post #3 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 12:30 PM
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I'm doing 5.5c and 35s. Hp 44 front and Ford 9 rear.
That 30 front isn't worth dumping all that money into. I was going to do that but came to my senses.

I used to DD a 4.5c and 33s. Lots of highway miles,no problem. But long arms this time for sure.

As long as you are set up right with long arms it should drive fine.
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post #4 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 12:34 PM
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Ha, behind a 408 an HP30 on 35's wouldn't last at all. There's only 1 tooth of contact on a d30 4.88 set.


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post #5 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 12:34 PM
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Ha, behind a 408 an HP30 on 35's wouldn't last at all. There's only 1 tooth of contact on a d30 4.88 set.
Yeah instant boom
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post #6 of 52 Old 08-11-2017, 11:46 PM
LouC
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If you don't do much off roading why spend all this on a depreciating investment?
It makes no financial sense whatsoever.
A nicely modded 5.9 would be more than adequate for what your needs appear to be.
If you're worried about highway manners stick with a smaller lift. You can avoid all of the bad habits of lifted ZJs that way....
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post #7 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
THEhomelessONE
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Thanks for the advice everyone, appreciated. I've already got over 5k in go fast top end parts sitting in the shop plus I just really like my ZJ. I've driven all kinds of nice cars and I'd be happier with the Jeep. It makes no financial sense to spend another 15k but it's worth it to me. Only other Jeep I'd consider would be a newer JK but I'd need to swap the v6 for something quicker then get it BAR'd for use in Cali. Would easily cost over 40k and give me a ton of grief getting it smog legal. With the 408 I'd be able to sneak it past a sniffer and have some decent power.

I've had nice cars before and it's a pain trying to keep it in good shape in the bay area. Stupid people everywhere dinging and scratching it up. Terrible roads, retarded drivers. With the jeep, hey if you bump into me, whatever. Scratches and dings don't bother me. Park as close as you'd like. Tailgaters? Go for it. Love being able to hop over curbs and bushes when there's a traffic jam I don't need to spend 30 mins at to make a U turn. The little things you know?
Lol. Was at a crossroad between fixing up the ZJ and a first gen X5M. Knowing myself the X5M would get me into serious trouble. I'll build a e90 335i track car to get my speed fix.

Had no idea about the axle issue. Kept hearing a HP30 and 8.8 would be fine. Thanks for letting me know. Was planning on something from ecgs. Money is always an issue but I don't want to have problems down the road. Don't plan on any nitrous or FI so will be under 550tq max. I do drive hard and love launching from a dig but I'd take it easy off road to try and prevent being stranded. What do you think about the 8.8 rear? Man was really hoping not to spend over 5k on just axles.

Currently on 30" tires with a 2.5" lift and bilstein 5100's. It's time to freshen up all the control arms and the price difference between a short and long arm is close to negligible. I usually do the speed limit, just have no experience with a large lift, don't know what to expect. Young and dumb, I'll probably regret spending the time and money when I'm older but for now I love my ZJ.
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post #8 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 01:49 AM
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Personally, I wouldn't run anything higher than around 4"-5" no matter if it was for 35s or 40s.

Especially if you don't do much wheeing, why bother with 35s and high lift? If you want it to handle well on the highways and functional on the trails, you really should look for a double triangulated rear and a true 3-link + trackbar front.

Radius arms makes your Jeep handle worse than stock, because they really don't offer much anti-dive/ anti-squat at all.
Anything above around 3"-4" on the other hand requires axle CA bracket modifications for good control arm angles - which then are good for up to 5"+ of lift with short arms.
I've had two XJs which were lifted ~4" on 35s, T&T Customs radius arm long arms. It sure did flex very well, it was ok to drive on the road, but ti was nowhere close to the 4-link setup regarding both on-road and off-road situations. Steep inclines the front lifted like crazy, and there was a lot brake dive.
I honestly would prefer modified CA mounts front & rear @ 3"-5" lift using short arms up to 4"-5" lift compared to using radius arm style long arms. 4-link is just that much better.


Problem is, none of those are bolt-on mods.
Only bolt-on mods are radius arm long arms and either 4-link+trackbar long arms or dbl-tri. long arms in the rear (depending on manufacturer). Expect your Jeep to not handle as well with the radius arms as it did with front short arm 4-link.
Also keep in mind that at 4"+ lift you really should go to OTK steering, and raise the trackbar mounts both at the frame-end and at axle. Do NOT go with drop pitman arm and trackbar drop bracket. They only make things worse.

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post #9 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 01:53 AM
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Oh.. about the front axles.. definitely skip the HP D30 on 4.88s and 35s. I'm on 33s and 4.56 gears, I've completely destroyed one HP D30, and I've replaced the R&P from the newer once. With that much invested in two HPD30s, I could've easily built a HP D44 with RCV shafts, or a lower budget D60 front by now
First one got destroyed with a stock 5.9, newer one with a slightly upgraded 5.9


D44a handles the power just fine in the rear if you truss it and install chromo shafts. Or you could go with a Ford 8.8 if you want to.

Btw., here's a comparison between 4.88 gearsets for a HP D30 and a Ford 8.8 (back when I was building those for an XJ). Yeah.. the D30 gearset is a joke



First HP D30 I built for the niner:



Second one; trussed etc. but the result were the same..





This is what 5.9 torque does to a front 27-spline 4130- Cromo shaft

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***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #10 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 08:50 AM
ax1598ZJ
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By the way, wait a little bit for long arms. Iron Rock has a new 3-link and is coming out with s tri-4link very soon.

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post #11 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 09:37 AM
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Do it, just get bigger axles for 37s.

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post #12 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
THEhomelessONE
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Thanks a bunch everyone. Where could I find more info on their future long arms? Didn't see anything on their site. I'll def pass on the HP30 thanks for the comparison pics! Don't have the skills to fab up my own long arm setup so need something off the shelf.

I'm still a noob so sorry for my ignorance but most of these long arms are 2 link with 1 or 2 arms coming off the lower arm correct? Stock is 4 link front. I'd like to use both upper stock CA mounts if possible instead of one like the iro kit. Like the idea of not needed a rear track bar with the clayton kit.
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post #13 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by THEhomelessONE View Post
Thanks a bunch everyone. Where could I find more info on their future long arms? Didn't see anything on their site. I'll def pass on the HP30 thanks for the comparison pics! Don't have the skills to fab up my own long arm setup so need something off the shelf.

I'm still a noob so sorry for my ignorance but most of these long arms are 2 link with 1 or 2 arms coming off the lower arm correct? Stock is 4 link front. I'd like to use both upper stock CA mounts if possible instead of one like the iro kit. Like the idea of not needed a rear track bar with the clayton kit.
They already have the 3 link out, I just received mine.
The rear tri 4 link isn't ready yet.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/13268.html
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post #14 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 03:37 PM
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The new IRO kit for the rear is triangulated, so no track bar.

There really isn't room for a full 4 link in the front even if you design it yourself. The kits that are two mount points at the frame are radius arms. The IRO 3 link is the only kit three link and it's gonna be miles ahead of radius arm geometry.

Seems like a lot of money to make the jeep worse to drive on the street if you're not gonna wheel it.


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post #15 of 52 Old 08-12-2017, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
THEhomelessONE
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Sweet thanks! So the IRO 3 link should be better on road and claytons better off correct? Worry about using the driver side upper CA mount with a 3 link setup as it looks like it's starting to shear and I don't know how much stronger it'd be by welding it back. Main reason I was looking into claytons radius arms.

Yeah you have a good point, hopefully I get more into wheeling, most I've done is some rutty trails, almost bottomed out with my current lift. Compared to the little track oriented cars I drove on the street the Jeep handles like sh*t, how much worse can it get? Lol my way of thinking about it. I used to drive 26k trucks for a living, I drive my Jeep in the same fashion so no aggressive maneuvers. I just hate the loosey goosey worn suspension wandering feeling. Hoping long arms won't make it worse. Gets tiring on long trips. Thanks again for the help.
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