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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:12 PM   #1
bigzj
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Fixing my death wobble, center front axle, help

So i put on a 2.75" lift ('95 ZJ) and guess who showed up...DW, gotta love it.

So in an effort to fix it, i've gotten it professionally aligned, and my tires balanced. Also put a wrench on everything on that dang front end. Those helped a little, but i think that the root of my problems is caused by not replacing my track when i extended the springs and shocks, so my axle is no longer centered.

I have the JKS adjustable trackbar for my size lift, with the high durometer bushings, from Kevinsoffroad, on order. Also will be putting on the HardKOR steering stabilizer for a little extra dampening on my front end, and the HardKOR steering box brace to tighten it up as much as possible.

So now that we've gotten through all that garbage, heres my thought. Jack the jeep, jackstands under the frame, old trackbar off, let the axle hang and center itself, then adjust the new trackbar to line up with the holes while the axle is self centered and hanging, bolt on and go for a test drive see if it helped.

Will my idea of the hanging method do any good, or is there a simpler/more complicated but more precise way of doing it? All advice is appreciated, especially if you've done a home-brewed lift before, or had the DW and seen it through. Thanks

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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #2
rugermack
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Axle needs to have all the weight on it. Hanging won't work.
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03' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, (wifes Jeep) 99k, 4.7 5 speed auto, K&N, KYB shocks, drilled-slotted rotors, All the toys.
2000' Ford Superduty, F250, 7.3, 198K, 37's, too much to list.

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Parts for sale d30 and d35 parts http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/...-parts-1004499
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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:27 PM   #3
bigzj
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So how do i center it then? Just take the trackbar off while its on the ground, and line it up that way?
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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:56 PM   #4
bjl95mustang
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Measure how much it is off, jack it up, adjust the bar that much. Put it back doen and measure again. just keep doing that untill it's right.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 01:09 PM   #5
rugermack
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If the bolt doesn't want to go in , have someone turn the steering wheel to line it up.
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95' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 148k, 5.2, NP242, 46RH, 4" RC lift, all new adjustable ca's(2 IRO front uppers and the rest RC adjustables), nitro shocks, JKS TB's, Jet Chip, Dynamax cat back, Magnaflow cat, GTP hood vents. 31" Pro Comps with Rock Krawler "D"s. Westin brush/grill guard with Hella 500s, 411's, Solid diff covers, detroit locker rear, power lock in front, SYE and Tom Wood's front/rear shafts, RE discos, BPE's, d-rings front and back, factory tc and rad skid, hitch, Sliders next.
03' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, (wifes Jeep) 99k, 4.7 5 speed auto, K&N, KYB shocks, drilled-slotted rotors, All the toys.
2000' Ford Superduty, F250, 7.3, 198K, 37's, too much to list.

Built Not Bought #257

Parts for sale d30 and d35 parts http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/...-parts-1004499
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Unread 05-10-2010, 01:27 PM   #6
Wheelin98TJ
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The front axle will pretty much center itself naturally.

Once you unbolt the old track bar, bounce the suspension a few times. Then measure to confirm it is centered.

If not centered, back the jeep up 15-20 feet and turn the steering wheel slightly back and forth. Then park the Jeep with the wheels pointing perfectly straight forward so you can measure again.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 03:53 PM   #7
1sportsdoc
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You can use a small bottle jack between the tire and the frame. If you installed a lift, you probably need to shift the axle toward the passenger side so the bottle jack would go between the passenger tire and the frame , with the base of the jack on the tire side wall (use a thin piece of wood) and the other end between the coil and shock or coil and endlink.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 04:01 PM   #8
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sportsdoc View Post
You can use a small bottle jack between the tire and the frame. If you installed a lift, you probably need to shift the axle toward the passenger side so the bottle jack would go between the passenger tire and the frame , with the base of the jack on the tire side wall (use a thin piece of wood) and the other end between the coil and shock or coil and endlink.
Using a bottle jack to shift the axle is unecessary.

If you want to shift the axle, its as easy as turning the steering wheel as rugermack mentioned.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 04:14 PM   #9
Virmagicus
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Ratchet straps can be very useful, especially the more lift you have. Naturally centering just don't work all the time. If your by yourself use ratchet straps.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 05:04 PM   #10
1sportsdoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Using a bottle jack to shift the axle is unecessary.

If you want to shift the axle, its as easy as turning the steering wheel as rugermack mentioned.
Unnecessary unless you're like me and do everything by myself; in which case turning the steering wheel method is a big PITA!
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Unread 05-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #11
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Unread 05-10-2010, 09:21 PM   #12
nick62087
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+1 on guessing on the length, and having someone else turn the wheel while you put in the bolt on the axle side. Done it that way many times no probs.
I also tightened the jamb nut after the bar was on the vehicle.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 09:35 PM   #13
97grandzj
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with my 3.5" lift I had to drill a hole 3/4" over for my track bar on the axle, only problem not is my steering wheel is out a litle less than 1/4 turn
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Unread 05-11-2010, 08:48 AM   #14
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virmagicus View Post
Ratchet straps can be very useful, especially the more lift you have. Naturally centering just don't work all the time. If your by yourself use ratchet straps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sportsdoc View Post
Unnecessary unless you're like me and do everything by myself; in which case turning the steering wheel method is a big PITA!
Good points, I totally forgot about when you are working by yourself.

I should know better. I have rear brakes that have needed bled for a few days now because I have no help and none of the tools to do it by myself.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 08:51 AM   #15
rugermack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Good points, I totally forgot about when you are working by yourself.

I should know better. I have rear brakes that have needed bled for a few days now because I have no help and none of the tools to do it by myself.
Buy one of those little vacuum bleeders.
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95' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 148k, 5.2, NP242, 46RH, 4" RC lift, all new adjustable ca's(2 IRO front uppers and the rest RC adjustables), nitro shocks, JKS TB's, Jet Chip, Dynamax cat back, Magnaflow cat, GTP hood vents. 31" Pro Comps with Rock Krawler "D"s. Westin brush/grill guard with Hella 500s, 411's, Solid diff covers, detroit locker rear, power lock in front, SYE and Tom Wood's front/rear shafts, RE discos, BPE's, d-rings front and back, factory tc and rad skid, hitch, Sliders next.
03' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, (wifes Jeep) 99k, 4.7 5 speed auto, K&N, KYB shocks, drilled-slotted rotors, All the toys.
2000' Ford Superduty, F250, 7.3, 198K, 37's, too much to list.

Built Not Bought #257

Parts for sale d30 and d35 parts http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/...-parts-1004499
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