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Unread 01-09-2006, 08:21 PM   #1
FearTheDentist
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Fitting 33" tires on a WJ w\ 4" short arm lift

I've had a lot of PM'd ???'s about how my 285\75r16's fit w\ a 4" short arm lift. I keep telling myself I'll do a write-up but it never happens, so I'll at least try to provide some useful info for others who are thinking of trying to stuff these under their WJ.

First- my general perspective on it is that it is doable but it's not a trivial project.
Also- please bear in mind I have a Ford 9" axle under my front end- it adds about an inch of lift due to it's greater diameter and also is pushed forward an inch or so compared to how the Dana 30 sits- this is very important because it's easy to trim the front of the front wheel wells but not the rear.

I trimmed quite a bit off my ARB, but now that it's done I would do the same even if I didn't need the clearance- I like the lines of it a lot better. I trimmed the rear bumper cover quite a bit- turns out it was way overkill- probably could have trimmed just an inch or so and been fine. It looks kinda dumb w\ how much I trimmed it, but it's trashed and I'm losing it soon anyway so I'm not too worried about it.

I rub a little on the forward side of the front and rear tires when I'm really flexed. You can see where I still catch the corner of the ARB a little bit, I'll trim it one of these days. It's worn the cladding in the rear a bit and bent my front fender a bit too, but nothing I can't live with and no serious tire damage. You'll notice how close my rear wheel sits to the front of the wheel well. I'd like to push my rear axle back an inch or so just to look better, but it's not rubbing enough to be a major issue (remember the axle rotates up and back from it's rest postion, so it really doesn't rub anywhere near as much as it looks like it should), so I probably won't bother.

You'll definitely want to relocate your wiper fluid resevoir, which can really be a challange if you have a V8- there's nowhere under the hood for it, but if you leave it in the wheel well you'll smoosh it in no time.

If you don't do much offroading and don't disconnect your front sway bar you probably could get away w\ 4" of lift and a bit of trimming, but your wheel backspacing will be tricky- too much and you'll rub on the inside, too little and you'll rub outside. All other things being equal, I'd prefer to rub on the inside so I'd stick w\ 5" or so of BS (this doesn't leave you all that many wheel choices).

I'll try to get some better photos, but I don't take a lot of pics so no promises...

So- if there are any "words of wisdom" to be had here- don't attempt it unless you're prepared for a bit of work and a lot of trial and error- it's not as simple of an undertaking as one might think. If you don't mind doing some cutting and don't mind some rubbing it seems to be doable, but I'd like to see a similar set-up w\ a Dana 30 to see how the clearance on the back edge of the front tires is. So, unless you're feeling adventurous, stick w\ 31's.

--notice in the first pic how close the rear edge of the tire is to the cladding. If my axle wasn't pushed forward the extra inch we had to to fit the Ford 9", I'd surely rub here. You could trim the cladding a bit, but it would be tight. I don't know how far forward you can shift the stock Dana 30 w\o lengthening the driveshaft.

dsc00894.jpg   dsc00895.jpg   dsc00896.jpg   dsc00897.jpg   imgp1722.jpg  

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Unread 01-09-2006, 08:35 PM   #2
10achik
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So that's how my WJ would look with an ARB, thanks I really like your mods, I've been a big chicken so far and stayed wih 31's.
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Unread 01-09-2006, 08:39 PM   #3
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My turn. I know i was one of your correspondants through PMs. I still have the dana 30 so i will go take pics. Ill be back in about 10 minutes and edit this post with my pictures and stuff.

**EDIT**.
Ok here I am. Rock Krawler 4" Short arm lift, 285/75r16 MT/Rs. Stock axles front and back, and I used the self-cleansing method for clearing out what the tires will hit (let them hit till they tear whatever it is out..didnt mean to though). Im on the stock wheels with i thnk 6" BS? Anyways, rear end i have zero trimming, zero rubbing problems. I never disconnect my rear addco anti-sway bar, and that may be why but i have actually heard a rear tire hit ONE time flexing really hard with the anti-sway bar attached, but no damage. Front is another story. Also, please excuse the dirt. I was out wheelin yesterday near the rubicon where there is snow and mud. Now I have the flu (felt it yesterday, kicked in today), so i dont feel like doing anything. Mmmk now to the pictures.

First picture...Front left side. The rear portion of the fender has zero trimming, zero rubbing. The front side has some minor trimming (wasnt supposed to be permenant, smoother cuts to come).



Second pic...Front left side. Washer fluid reservoir and foglight =( TheDentist is correct. Both of the pumps on the reservoir have been torn out and the foglight had been as well. If you are going to try to run this setup you MUST move or REMOVE that reservoir (if your going to wheel the jeep). As for the foglight, it encountered its problems at the same time the washer fluid reservoir did. TheDentist didnt notice it because of the ARB.



Rear left side (sorry for things in foreground). As i said, i didnt trim at all back here but I also have zero rubbing issues with my addco swaybar connected at all times



Front left top spring perch, hard flex rubs



Front left side, swaybar. When turning is locked to the right the front/inside of the tire rubs on the swaybar.



When turning full lock left, the rear/inside of the tire rubs on the LCA





The dentist did not notice the rubbing issues because he is running atleast 1 inch less backspacing than me, which is what i plan to do when i can afford wheels. I hope this helps everyone, Greg.


**EDIT THE EDIT**

These images are of the time when i was flexed the most. This is where the rubbing occured on the spring perch and i first tore out hte pumps.





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Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 01-09-2006 at 09:12 PM..
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Unread 01-09-2006, 08:42 PM   #4
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I'll be selling the ARB sooner or later (if you like it that much make me an offer )- it looks good and sure is beefy, but screws your approach angle up something fierce. Sometimes I think I should stick a mermaid on it 'cuz it's like driving around with the prow of a ship sticking out front....OTOH I'll probably lighten up on the trails I take on given the trail rig I just bought (that's a teaser- show up at GSSW or GSW if you want to see what I bought ), so maybe I'll keep it to keep scaring the soccer moms around the neighborhood (I don't think the neighbors like me much )
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:21 PM   #5
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I plan on running about 4.5-5" of lift with the OME springs+2.5" spacers... with this info it would leave me to beleave that I could run 33's with this set-up. I don't care about hacking up the front bumper a bit and it seems I won't need much trimming in the rear is any... Also the wheels I have now have 4.5" of BS so not to much but not to little. Now I just need the money for the parts, gears and tires that I want!
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:25 PM   #6
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If you dont have enough lift, flexing the front end will make your tire hit your fender first. You can see with me, in hte 2nd to the last pic, most of the tire was tucked in the wheel well pretty well...but with that lift youd probably have to extend bumpstops a pretty good amount.


OOH that reminds me...i also dont have extended bumpstops. So the wheels stop where the wheel well makes them...=(
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:26 PM   #7
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One question for AgitatedPancake and TheDentist: I know AgitatedPancake has 16x7 wheels becuase they are the stock wheels... I want to know if TheDentist is running 16x8 wheels what the differance in sidewall hight you guys see? As in what do your tires actually measure out to be with similar PSI on the different width rims?
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:28 PM   #8
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Oh and too AgitatedPancake... are you still running the stock 3.73 gearing? If so how does the Jeep drive in the city and highway and what gas miliage change did you see?
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:35 PM   #9
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well my tires are about a year old (dont know mileage), and say about 32" at about 35 PSI
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:44 PM   #10
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What gears are you running?
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Unread 01-09-2006, 09:53 PM   #11
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3.73's, that puts my speedo off by 15%
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Unread 01-09-2006, 10:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake
3.73's, that puts my speedo off by 15%

How has that effected highway driving and you MPG?
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Unread 01-09-2006, 10:24 PM   #13
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Bad. my total average MPG is around 12, and highway driving it cant decide on gears, it really likes to try to use 4th gear at low rpms, but cant even accelerate in 4th. I have to turn OD off to accelerate.
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Unread 01-09-2006, 10:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake
Bad. my total average MPG is around 12, and highway driving it cant decide on gears, it really likes to try to use 4th gear at low rpms, but cant even accelerate in 4th. I have to turn OD off to accelerate.

Makes me think gears are pretty important then to run these big meats... I better really start saving for some 4.56 gears!
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Unread 01-09-2006, 10:29 PM   #15
10achik
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Sounds like a regear in your future
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99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
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