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Unread 05-06-2013, 02:55 PM   #31
BuzzZJ9er
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov
My new niner trans ended up being new mopar, we couldn't find anything else that was worth it.
How much did that run you?

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Unread 05-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #32
kg6mov
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I don't remember what the break down was. I ended up being out the door with new to me engine (tested w/ warranty) and new mopar trans for $5k
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 03:19 PM   #33
BuzzZJ9er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov
I don't remember what the break down was. I ended up being out the door with new to me engine (tested w/ warranty) and new mopar trans for $5k
Ouch.. I can't afford nothing like that!
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Unread 05-06-2013, 03:29 PM   #34
underpowered
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33's will fit on just a BB with either trimming, or bump stopping to. one way or another you gotta keep them out of the fenders.

i chose the cut to fit method with no extra bumpstopping and ran 34's on a BB'd Up country ZJ for a while. Acutally, the same jeep is getting 36's very soon still on the same lift.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:19 PM   #35
Concolour
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered
33's will fit on just a BB with either trimming, or bump stopping to. one way or another you gotta keep them out of the fenders.

i chose the cut to fit method with no extra bumpstopping and ran 34's on a BB'd Up country ZJ for a while. Acutally, the same jeep is getting 36's very soon still on the same lift.
I don't see this ending well ::cringe::
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:03 PM   #36
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concolour View Post
I don't see this ending well ::cringe::
It won't, and we know it.

there is a D44 and 14ff waiting to go in, but figured might was well fully finish off the d30/35 before they are removed. The jeep gets one last hoorah as a jeep before it is hacked up and tubed out.
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1998 ZJ 2" bb and 31's. street queen but sees the woods once in a while.

2000 powerjoke tow pig

Anti-jeep--1989 K5 blazer. the new off road ride
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Unread 05-09-2013, 09:49 AM   #37
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concolour

I don't see this ending well ::cringe::
I am getting the same set up, ill stay at 31s. Id like to be able to flex.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 10:16 AM   #38
Timo_90xj
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I myself really don't see a point in going sky-high to fit something like 33s or 35s. My ideal setup would be around 3" lift on long arms (rear double triangulated, front 3-link), enough chopping & modifications on the wheel wells and 35s or 37. It can be done nicely and cleanly, but that'd certainly require quite a bit of sheetmetal work

I drove my ZJ with 1.75" BB and 32s for a couple months without major mods to fenders, and didn't rub at all. I adjusted the WB a little (~1.5" stretch at both ends). I then partially rebuilt the wheelwells, I could now easily run 33s, and 35s with ~1"-2" more bumpstopping (in which case I'd have a bit too little uptravel in front, so a 1"-2" lift would do some good).

Currently still running 1.75" BB and 32s, can't say the flex is limited at all..



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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 05-09-2013, 10:48 AM   #39
kg6mov
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Good christ thats a sexy looking niner.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:46 AM   #40
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Good christ thats a sexy looking niner.
That was before the front bumper was fully completed. It looks better now

But thanks!
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 05-09-2013, 03:36 PM   #41
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsonzj View Post
I am getting the same set up, ill stay at 31s. Id like to be able to flex.
still had full suspension cycle on 34's, though with liberal fender mods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I myself really don't see a point in going sky-high to fit something like 33s or 35s. My ideal setup would be around 3" lift on long arms (rear double triangulated, front 3-link), enough chopping & modifications on the wheel wells and 35s or 37. It can be done nicely and cleanly, but that'd certainly require quite a bit of sheetmetal work

I drove my ZJ with 1.75" BB and 32s for a couple months without major mods to fenders, and didn't rub at all. I adjusted the WB a little (~1.5" stretch at both ends). I then partially rebuilt the wheelwells, I could now easily run 33s, and 35s with ~1"-2" more bumpstopping (in which case I'd have a bit too little uptravel in front, so a 1"-2" lift would do some good).

Currently still running 1.75" BB and 32s, can't say the flex is limited at all..
Agreed, LCOG is great. On the 95 i mentioned above it will stay on about 3" of lift on the 36's, granted it is getting full widths and the exact suspension you listed ( double Tri 4 link rear and 3 link front) but keeping only 3" of lift, though it is losing nearly the entire body however.

I only run 3" of lift with 38.5's on my k5 blazer, and only what i consider light fender trimming and no rubbing what soever.
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1998 ZJ 2" bb and 31's. street queen but sees the woods once in a while.

2000 powerjoke tow pig

Anti-jeep--1989 K5 blazer. the new off road ride
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Unread 05-09-2013, 04:19 PM   #42
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered View Post
still had full suspension cycle on 34's, though with liberal fender mods.
Yup, that's one of the things I'm missing
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Unread 05-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #43
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God I love cutting sheet metal.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 09:02 PM   #44
spidermonkey
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Fit is a relative term. It entirely depends on what you use it for.

I wheel mine moderately hard, flex a lot, big rocks, tight trails.

Use stock wheels with 1.25 spacers or 7" wide wheels with 3.75 backspacing. with 33x10.5s. 8" wheels with 12.5s can work but it is harder. I know.

I cut and folded the rear half of the pass side rear wheel lip, (behind the tire inside the wheel well), or the tire will catch it and cut it up like I did. Driver side not an issue. No bump stops required in back if you have a stock axle. it will tuck a 10.5. With the narrower 8.8 and 33s they will tuck a 12.5" in the wheel well lip barely.
.
Cut the front fender about half way up the stock stamped flare of the fender.
Remove front inner fenders. It works good but all the crap that flies off the tires now gets in your door hinges. A minor side-effect.

Cut slits in the pinch seam at the rear of the front wheel well.
At the front of the front wheel well, trim and trim the obstructing inner fender support as needed, but no more.

Bump stop just enough so the tire doesn't grab the fender or inner when the tire is all the way up in the wheelwell. I used 2 hockey pucks RTVed, plus the factory stops. Don't laugh, work perfect and cheap!

lift it 3-3.5" any less will hit the accurate bump stops just hitting street bumps. You would have 2" or less of up travel. You can get away with less lift if it is a pavement queen or you like a crappy ride. I am picky as all hell and it took me 4 years to figure it out.

In my 9 years of wheeling, 31s with stock gears will almost always go were a rig on 33's can but the guy on 31's doesn't need new gears, a new rear axle, or to chop the hell out of his rig. I have no regrets, but it would be easier to stay on 31s.

Good luck!
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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:16 PM   #45
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidermonkey
Fit is a relative term. It entirely depends on what you use it for.

I wheel mine moderately hard, flex a lot, big rocks, tight trails.

Use stock wheels with 1.25 spacers or 7" wide wheels with 3.75 backspacing. with 33x10.5s. 8" wheels with 12.5s can work but it is harder. I know.

I cut and folded the rear half of the pass side wheel lip back or the tire will catch it and cut it up like I did. Driver side not an issue. No bump stops required in back if you have a srock axle. it will tuck a 10.5. With the narrower 8.8 and 33s they will tuck a 12.5" in the wheel well lip barely.
.
Cut the front fender about half way up the stock stamped flare of the fender.
Remove front inner fenders. It works good but all the crap that flies off the tires now gets in your door hinges. A minor side-effect.

Cut slits in the pinch seam at the rear of the front wheel well.
At the front of the front wheel well, trim and trim the obstructing inner fender support as needed, but no more.

Bump stop just enough so the tire doesn't grab the fender or inner when the tire is all the way up in the wheelwell. I used 2 hockey pucks RTVed, plus the factory stops. Don't laugh, work perfect and cheap!

lift it 3-3.5" any less will hit the accurate bump stops just hitting street bumps. You would have 2" or less of up travel. You can get away with less lift if it is a pavement queen or you like a crappy ride. I am picky as all hell and it took me 4 years to figure it out.

In my 9 years of wheeling, 31s with stock gears will almost always go were a rig on 33's can but the guy on 31's doesn't need new gears, a new rear axle, or to chop the hell out of his rig. I have no regrets, but it would be easier to stay on 31s.

Good luck!
You sir, just made my life easier.
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