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Old 07-04-2008, 11:00 PM   #16
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraTokn View Post
I also noticed that when I shift into park when the engine is running the trans makes a light grinding noise.
My knowledge on this whole topic is pretty limited overall, however, I've gotten that grinding sound when shifting into park while the transfer case is in neutral. Sort of a rapid clicking that slows down and stops, sound is present for maybe all of two or three seconds. I really have no idea what that may or may not imply for your situation, but maybe that'll give you something to go on

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Old 07-05-2008, 03:12 AM   #17
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Before I cut the shaft I want to make sure the case works... I can shift into each postion on the new t-case through the shifter and manually BUT isn't the jeep supposed to be able to move in 4wd with the front drive shaft connected?? The shafts feel locked in 4wd but it still doesnt move.

I also noticed that when I shift into park when the engine is running the trans makes a light grinding noise.
Whats going on here?
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:13 AM   #18
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:51 AM   #19
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It needs to be rolling to engage the 4wd modes most of the time. If the internals aren't lined up, then it is just a spring pulling them into the correct position but they won't mesh until you have the internals rotating.
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:10 PM   #20
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this might be a dumb question but it is in 4lo right? I know that on my 242 if its in 4hi it will send the power to the axle that has less resistance. therefore you will not move in 4hi but should in 4lo
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:13 PM   #21
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It needs to be rolling to engage the 4wd modes most of the time. If the internals aren't lined up, then it is just a spring pulling them into the correct position but they won't mesh until you have the internals rotating.
Well I checked each postion by manually shifting into the various 4wd positions and the rear shaft (thats missing the rear DS) is locked. The front DS is connected so I can't tell if it is engaging or not.

Question is, is there more to the gears meshing than the simple hand check that I am doing?

Do I have to get the jeep rolling down my street to engage the 4wd?
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:15 PM   #22
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this might be a dumb question but it is in 4lo right? I know that on my 242 if its in 4hi it will send the power to the axle that has less resistance. therefore you will not move in 4hi but should in 4lo
oh, maybe thats what arlo is talking about...

I do need to be rolling to engage 4lo.

Could i drive in front wheel drive (missing the rear DS) in FULL TIME?


I just need to see if this case works before I cut the DS myself.
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:29 PM   #23
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that should be possible to drive in 4lo without the rear ds but I'm not sure if it is recommended. I don't know that it would hurt anything except for the fact that you would only be able to go about 30mph
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:53 PM   #24
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i would have thought the output shaft would be where you get the issues and not just the tailcone being in the way.
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Old 07-05-2008, 01:38 PM   #25
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Drive in 4wd part time with just the front shaft and that'll work.
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:29 PM   #26
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Drive in 4wd part time with just the front shaft and that'll work.
Thats the problem the jeep doesn't move. I fell the trans shifting and there is resistence in the drive shafts but the jeep doesn't move when i put the trans and t-case in any of the positions. IS the t-case broken or what am i missing?
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:01 PM   #27
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wont the tcase fluid come out if you drive it w/e out the rear shaft?
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:02 PM   #28
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Not on a WJ - they have a sealed rear tailcone.
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:13 AM   #29
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I fit almost 2 qts of ATF+4 in the t-case, is that too much?

Are the trans output splines not mating up to the t-case?
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:33 AM   #30
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Hey just got back in to town. Any luck with this swap yet?

The grinding when in park and no movement when in 4wd is a concern. Did you get a chance to look inside the case to see if anything is broken? Maybe the linkage is just not adjusted properly?

Anyways, I can tell you that slip part will be a real big PITA to cut into. That metal is hard and will chew up blades quickly. Not to mention you would have to polish up the other side to get rid of the rust so that it doesn't grind down the TC seal.

I will be free tomorrow earlier on in the day so gimme a call if your free and need a hand for a bit.
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