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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:34 AM   #76
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
Don't bother with the shock boots, BPEs, steering stabilizer or the boot for that. Use the savings to upgrade the shocks to the DTs.

Get ready to find that the control arm bushings are shot, even if they are not, they will wear exponentially faster at the new angles. Get an alignment after you lift it. If you get death wobble, deal with it then (an alignment is not the first step or the cure).
How's is getting an alignment not a step to figuring out the cause of dw?

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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:38 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsonzj View Post
How's is getting an alignment not a step to figuring out the cause of dw?
Because it's not a cause of death wobble. You can take a Jeep with actual death wobble, align it 1000 times and you'll still have it. The problem is people call any shimmy they feel death wobble, when death wobble is a very specific thing.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:48 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post

Because it's not a cause of death wobble. You can take a Jeep with actual death wobble, align it 1000 times and you'll still have it. The problem is people call any shimmy they feel death wobble, when death wobble is a very specific thing.
I agree dw is not a shimmy. Which is why getting an alignment will get rid of most peoples thought of "dw". So that's why I say do that first and if there's an issue after that approach it.

So I see what you mean.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:58 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut

Not at BB height, it will move your sway bar angle out a bit, but not enough to make a huge difference.

Either way, you can save $30 by using some exhaust tube to lengthen the spring posts in the rear instead of buying the IRO ones. At the heights you are talking about, it is also fine to keep the stock bumpstops/spring post lengths and just add a hockey puck or two to spring perch. If the front jounce bumper is looking bad/disintegrating, it can be easily replaced.

For clarity. Spring retainer = little tab on spring perch, post = post coming down from the top.
With a 2" BB he really should address the front links. That angle in the sway bar is important. Iirc, it needs to be between 10 an 15 degrees up. Stock links with a 2" BB will put you near level.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:01 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by ErikTheRad
My biggest fear is "death wobble", don't wanna be havin' none of that stuff. Any advice to avoid that crap would be appreciated. And I don't think I'll need control arms, the stocks should be fine at this height. Right?
Yes, but only if the bushings in them are good. If they're shot, it's worth it to just buy new stock CA's. An arm loaded with bushings isn't a whole lot more than just the bushings themselves. And factory rubber bushings are hell to get out of a stock CA.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 08:06 AM   #81
tucsonzj
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Originally Posted by Midnightluckey View Post

With a 2" BB he really should address the front links. That angle in the sway bar is important. Iirc, it needs to be between 10 an 15 degrees up. Stock links with a 2" BB will put you near level.
He's doing jks quicker discos anyways, unless he changed his mind. But you are correct it needs to be between 5 and 15 degrees.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 02:04 AM   #82
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Ok, so after speaking at length with Kolak over the past week and absorbing all his advice, I finally decided to go with a set of 2" lifted OME springs, ProComp ES9000 shocks, and a set of new spring isolators. He said at this height, things like rear extended coil spring retainers, extended sway bar links, adjustable track bars, etc, would not be necessary.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 02:45 AM   #83
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Oh, and thanks to WhiteOut for making the suggestion for OME springs from the very start. I'll be perfectly happy with the 2" (possibly 2.25" or even 2.5") of increased clearance and the 31" tires, and even happier that I don't have to spend a bunch of money on stuff I don't really need, even though I had convinced myself that I needed it. The taller/better springs and new shocks will handle my towing load much better, improve the ride, allow for a bit more flex, and lift the Jeep enough for the bigger tires--- everything I wanted to accomplish. If it turns out I still need new control arms (or whatever), I can change those things as I go along.

And thank you TucsonZJ for the awesome deal on the wheel spacers.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:03 AM   #84
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Sounds like a good set up man make sure you check out everything under there now to make sure you won't need any other new parts. Easier to replace stuff while its already apart then have to do it twice.

And no problem
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Unread 06-05-2013, 12:14 PM   #85
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Sounds like it will turn out nice. Make sure you loosen the control arms when you're installing everything and re-torque at the new ride height, I'd also soak everything with PB blaster for a week before you try and work on it.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 12:25 PM   #86
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Sounds like it will turn out nice. Make sure you loosen the control arms when you're installing everything and re-torque at the new ride height, I'd also soak everything with PB blaster for a week before you try and work on it.
This
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:48 PM   #87
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Loosen ALL the control arms? Front/rear, upper/lower, and both ends of all? I was kinda hoping to just slide those new springs and pads in there and be done with it, aside from any parts that might need replacing upon close inspection or unless..............GASP.............. death wobble rears its ugly head
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:51 PM   #88
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I have 2 cans of PB Blaster ready to go to work.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 12:04 AM   #89
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If it were me, I'd still do a new front sway bar. But i'm weird like that and it's a small price to beef up my control IMO. And loosen all the CA's. if you don't the'll be pulling one way trying to realign themselves with the new angle.

BTW getting my stuff mounted tomorrow, spacers shipping out tomorrow or friday.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 02:33 AM   #90
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Sway bar, or did you mean track bar?
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