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Unread 05-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #46
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
I have no intention of running anything bigger than a 31" tire. Like, ever. I'd like to stay with the CV axles unless its going to cause issues with the 3.5" lift. I intend to purchase both front and rear track bars, the IRO Benchmark kit includes the double-shear bar and I'll add the rear bar.

Should I get both upper and lower adjustable control arms? Or just one set or the other? Looks like IRO makes fixed length arms designed for their kits-- do I really need the adjustable ones? Maybe just the lower adjustable? And do I need front AND rear? If so, its getting kinda pricey.
for 3.5 you dont "need" any new CA's. You can run stock ones. Doesn't mean they're a bad upgrade, because they're good. Just don't have to do it. I'm at 3.1" of lift all things said and done. I'm on stock CA's.

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Unread 05-22-2013, 03:23 AM   #47
ErikTheRad
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OK, I've changed my mind. After some investigating and educating, I've decided to just go with the 2.25" BB option. Seems easier, cheaper, less to worry about, and will provide enough lift for 31" tires and some added ground clearance. For a mild-to-moderate trail rig, this will do just fine. I plan to get the BB spacers, shocks, extended spring retainers, new track bars front and rear (probably IRO), JKS quick disconnects, replace the stock control arm bushings, and possibly new sway bars (I tow alot).

So, a few new questions......

Which BB kit is a good one that provides a bona-fide 2.25" of lift?

What shocks? Bilsteins are too expensive. Rubicon Express?

Are the stock control arm bushings easy to replace?

Will I need extended sway bar links?

Will the IRO track bars work with this set-up? Was looking at the front double-shear doohicky and the rear non-adjustable. I don't plan to lift the Jeep any higher in the future.

Can I still use wheel spacers or will it be completely unnecessary?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 03:43 AM   #48
ErikTheRad
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What is the tallest BB spacer available? Is there a 2.5 or 3"? Will a 32" tire work with a 2.25" BB?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 05:09 AM   #49
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Unread 05-22-2013, 11:31 AM   #50
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
OK, I've changed my mind. After some investigating and educating, I've decided to just go with the 2.25" BB option. Seems easier, cheaper, less to worry about, and will provide enough lift for 31" tires and some added ground clearance. For a mild-to-moderate trail rig, this will do just fine. I plan to get the BB spacers, shocks, extended spring retainers, new track bars front and rear (probably IRO), JKS quick disconnects, replace the stock control arm bushings, and possibly new sway bars (I tow alot).

So, a few new questions......

Which BB kit is a good one that provides a bona-fide 2.25" of lift?

What shocks? Bilsteins are too expensive. Rubicon Express?

Are the stock control arm bushings easy to replace?

Will I need extended sway bar links?

Will the IRO track bars work with this set-up? Was looking at the front double-shear doohicky and the rear non-adjustable. I don't plan to lift the Jeep any higher in the future.

Can I still use wheel spacers or will it be completely unnecessary?
BB thread, will answer almost all questions

Check out my build thread it'll show you what it looks like, PM me if you want pics of anything else.

4 wheel customs 2.25" bb. If you're not planning on going higher after that email them and get the some monotube (I have rubicon express twin tube, but I plan on upgrading eventually so I didn't pay for the monotube) shocks (more money but worth the upgrade).

Yes you'll need extended sway bar links (rear and front or just rear if you choose quick discos, I have a new set of front i'll sell you if you want). I have Rubicon Express Rear.

IRO would work (just make sure it's the right length for your lift). I'd either go JKS, IRO or RE for your track bar. I, as well as some other people, are not a fan of the drop brackets, which is why I went with adjustable track bars.

You'll either need new wheels or wheel spacers in order to get the proper backspacing. You're at 5.25" BS (IIRC) and will need to be at 4" or less. (I'm in the middle of a wheel deal so if you want some spacers I might sell you mine if you want)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
What is the tallest BB spacer available? Is there a 2.5 or 3"? Will a 32" tire work with a 2.25" BB?
I'd stay at 31's, that'll need some trimming as it is. 32's would need a lot.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 02:25 AM   #51
ErikTheRad
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Thanks for all the help, tucsonzj. I appreciate it.

I just bought a set of Cherokee wheels, the 5 spoke non-directional ones. Of all the stock jeep wheels out there, these are my favorite. Will these wheels work with 31" tires and NO wheel spacers? I don't want them to rub on anything and I plan to remove the stock front bumper cladding and fab myself a bumper/winch mount. I can't find accurate info on the backspacing.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 05:10 AM   #52
ErikTheRad
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I take that back...... they're not Cherokee wheels, they're 15x7 Wrangler wheels. I know the bolt pattern is the same and the size/width is the same as my current stock 93 ZJ wheels, but I'm not sure about the backspacing. I'm finding conflicting information. However, after going through EVERY PAGE of the "lifted jeep pics" sticky thread, I can't find a single ZJ with these wheels on it. I hope I didn't screw up. I plan to prep em carefully and paint em with Rustoleum Professional satin black, which I also plan to use to paint the entire Jeep. The factory green paint is peeling and oxidized somethin' fierce, so I'm gonna sand 'er down a hit it with a couple coats of rattle can. NO WAY it can look worse than it does now, and its just a fun toy trail rig. I don't need to concern myself with what the soccer moms at the mall think of it.

This is the wheel.....
aly01512u.jpg  
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Unread 05-23-2013, 05:24 AM   #53
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I'm also confused about why I'd need to be at 4" of backspace or less. The more backspace, the less the tires stick out--- and I don't want the tires sticking out. However, I also don't want them rubbing on the control arms or whatever everytime I turn a corner, either. I plan to use these wheels (pic'd above), which I think are 5.25" BS, with a 31/10.50-15 A/T.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 06:13 AM   #54
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That is stock b.s. and that width tire will rub the control arms at full lock with that b.s. This is either 3.75" or 4" of b.s. on stock rims.
picture-14.png  
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Unread 05-23-2013, 11:59 AM   #55
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
I'm also confused about why I'd need to be at 4" of backspace or less. The more backspace, the less the tires stick out--- and I don't want the tires sticking out. However, I also don't want them rubbing on the control arms or whatever everytime I turn a corner, either. I plan to use these wheels (pic'd above), which I think are 5.25" BS, with a 31/10.50-15 A/T.
Backspacing is unusual concept to grasp. There's a really good picture of it on there I wish I could find.

It's about at what depth the wheel is actually bolted to the hub. If you BS is 5.25 you're going to rub on the CA's and other stuff inside. Which is why you need a back spacing of 4" or less. If you don't want your wheels to stick out get 1.25" spacers for those wheels so your BS will be 4. You'll be fine. My back spacing is 4" (stock with spacers) and mine barely stick out from the wells. They have to in order for the tire to be able to turn. Stock tires are usually 7.5" or so wide. You're going up to 10.5". See how you need to move your backspacing so the can turn freely?
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Unread 05-24-2013, 03:32 AM   #56
ErikTheRad
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Yes I understand the backspacing deal, I didn't consider the tire rubbing on the INSIDE-- I was only thinking about fender and bumper clearance. Makes sense.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 04:14 AM   #57
ErikTheRad
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Ok so I did some researching and adding and calculating and computing and all that stuff. Heres what I came up with.....

So-called "budget boost":

-Skyjacker 2.25" BB "kit" (I put kit in quotes because the "kit" only contains the spacers and shocks. Nothing else. Theres lots more needed to do the job so I can't call it a "kit" with a straight face.) Anywho, the "kit" with hydro shocks is $219.

-IRO front adjustable track bar, $139

-IRO rear track bar, $119

-JKS quick discos, $159

-rear extended swaybar links, $25

-new coil spring isolators, $25 front and $38 rear

-rear extended coil spring retainers, $29

-SpiderTrax 1.25" wheel spacers, $200 for all four

-Total cost, $953.00 before tax or shipping.


So now lets compare this to the cost of installing, for the sake of this comparison, an IRO "Benchmark" 3.5" lift:

-IRO "Benchmark" 3.5" lift kit, $449 (kit includes 2 new coil springs, adjustable double-shear track bar, hydro shocks, sway bar links, and all hardware)

-IRO rear adjustable track bar, $139

-JKS quick discos upgrade, $89

-coil spring isolators, $25 f and $38 r

-extended coil spring retainers, $29

-SpiderTrax 1.25" wheel spacers, $200 for all four

Total cost, $969.00 before tax or shipping.


So, its a 2.25" budget boost with my old crusty springs for $953, or a 3.5" lift (1.25" taller) with 2 new coil springs, at least comparible shocks, and better adjustable track bars, for $969---- a whopping difference of $16. Yeah so, upon further investigation, I think I'll be going with the Benchmark.
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Unread 05-24-2013, 04:21 AM   #58
ErikTheRad
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I should also mention, anything else I might upgrade-- such as steering stabilzer, shocks, control arms, sway bars, bushings, etc-- I would be doing EITHER WAY regardless of which lift option I choose. Therefore, the increased cost would apply equally to either option, thus making no difference in the final cost. It appears that "budget boost" doesn't necessarily mean "low budget"; guess thats why nobody calls it a "LBB".
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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:13 AM   #59
tucsonzj
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Gets expensive when you do it right.

Sounds like a fair choice in lift. Did you compare with other 3.5" lifts around? There's lots of options out there.

You don't "need" a new steering stabilizer. Unless you're going to be doing a ton of towing or yours is currently shot save the money. Can always buy a new one later and install it then.

As for springs are you going to do the front to rear swap or buy all new springs?
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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:18 AM   #60
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
I should also mention, anything else I might upgrade-- such as steering stabilzer, shocks, control arms, sway bars, bushings, etc-- I would be doing EITHER WAY regardless of which lift option I choose. Therefore, the increased cost would apply equally to either option, thus making no difference in the final cost. It appears that "budget boost" doesn't necessarily mean "low budget"; guess thats why nobody calls it a "LBB".
The bb is a cheaper lift. It doesn't require new springs or new shocks to run it. Now if you want to off road then you need new shocks because stock shocks don't have the necessary travel. So yes and no.

Bb kit: 220 (ish)
Front and rear track bars: 200ish
Rear post extensions: 25
Bump stops (don't forget these on your lift) 5 bucks (hockey pucks work great)
RC 1.25" spacers: 60ish
Jks quicker discos:150

So I spent prob 700 overall on mine. But I set mine up a certain way. I could throw on 4.5" springs and some CA's and be good to go. Made it upgradeable.
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