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Unread 05-20-2013, 12:41 PM   #31
WhiteOut
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I still say OME with either the OME shocks or Bilsteins. It will ride much better than the IRO kit and will be just the same performance wise for what you are looking to do.

31s will be a perfect tire for that setup, adding some 1.25" Spidertrax spacers will give it a bit wider stance and allow you to run the factory wheels with pretty much no rubbing on the control arms. Since you are not going to be doing anything too crazy and you're not going to a crazy height, you can wait in the driveshaft, if it fails then you replace it with a u-joint type.

You can easily install all these things yourself, just soak everything in rust breaker for a week prior. You'll want to look at your control arm bushings to make sure they are in good shape still, if not, they can be replaced with aftermarket adjustables or stock replacements. BPEs are Bar Pin Eliminators, they eliminate the bar pin at the bottom of the front shock and pre-load the bushing to keep it from clunking. I'd recommend them.

Alignment won't be an issue. You will probably need to shave a bit off the front bumper though.

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Unread 05-20-2013, 03:46 PM   #32
tucsonzj
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For your situation, I'm with whiteout. I went with a 2.25" bb and adj track bars with RE shocks. Probably not the ride you want but I don't mind the stiffness of my set up. I followed tjs and jk's up and down trails last weekend that were at 3-3.5" lift with 33's and 35's on my 31's. No adjustments to anything else besides adding quicker disconnects for the front sway bar. Didn't touch tcase, drive shafts or cv joints. I did add spacers and had to trim (well I just removed my front bumper) to run stock wheels to get the right back spacing.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:15 AM   #33
ErikTheRad
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When you speak of the front drive shaft being U-joint or CV, we are talking about the shaft itself and not the front axles, right? Because I know my Jeep has front CV axles but I'm not sure about the driveshaft. Hafta look.

As for control arms, I don't mind spending a little extra....... if they make a difference. Whats the primary advantage to adding adjustable control arms?

Also, why would I want this "quick disconnect" front sway bar? Is this to gain extra flex in the suspension when going off-road?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:28 AM   #34
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
When you speak of the front drive shaft being U-joint or CV, we are talking about the shaft itself and not the front axles, right? Because I know my Jeep has front CV axles but I'm not sure about the driveshaft. Hafta look.

As for control arms, I don't mind spending a little extra....... if they make a difference. Whats the primary advantage to adding adjustable control arms?

Also, why would I want this "quick disconnect" front sway bar? Is this to gain extra flex in the suspension when going off-road?
Axle is either cv or ujoint where it connects to wheels.

Good do the lift right so you don't do it twice. Long are are necessary at certain lengths to maintain proper angles for driveline. Adjustable are like adj track bars, u can make the length right for multiple lifts. (Make sure you upgrade track bars all around)

Yes, disconnecting the sway bar allows for further axle travel allowing more flex. Make sure you have extended bump stops or add hockey pucks so you don't bottom out your shocks. Quick discos just make this a quick an easy process on the trail. I have jks quicker discos. They're great and an easy install.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:34 AM   #35
ErikTheRad
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After a fair amount of searching, all I can find on the OME suspension systems are 3/4" to 1" kits that come with 4 shocks and 4 springs and thats it. Despite their awesome reputation and great quality, this simply doesn't increase the Jeep's overall ground/obstacle clearance and isn't what I'm looking for. I want an actual LIFT, albeit a mild one. I'm ok to spend $800 to $1000 to accomplish this and don't want to make a $800-$1000 mistake.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsonzj View Post
Axle is either cv or ujoint where it connects to wheels.
My Jeep has CV joints but they are wearing out. Lots of clicking at hard turns. Whats involved with swapping these to U-joint? If too much has to be replaced/changed/modified, I'll stick with replacement CV axles.

Quote:
Good do the lift right so you don't do it twice. Long are are necessary at certain lengths to maintain proper angles for driveline.
If I purchase the IRO adjustable arms, will this take care of the issue?

Quote:
Yes, disconnecting the sway bar allows for further axle travel allowing more flex. Make sure you have extended bump stops or add hockey pucks so you don't bottom out your shocks. Quick discos just make this a quick an easy process on the trail. I have jks quicker discos. They're great and an easy install.
Then I'll likely spring the cash for these as well.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:54 AM   #37
tucsonzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post

My Jeep has CV joints but they are wearing out. Lots of clicking at hard turns. Whats involved with swapping these to U-joint? If too much has to be replaced/changed/modified, I'll stick with replacement CV axles.

If I purchase the IRO adjustable arms, will this take care of the issue?

Then I'll likely spring the cash for these as well.
Unless you're swapping to 35" tires (which 35" and above is time to look at ditching the d30/d35 axle I'm sure your jeep has, not to mention new gearing) just replace your cv's. Esp if you have the 249 tcase (all time 4wd). Cvs are stronger then ppl give them credit for. Cvs are nice on the road. If you're out 4 wheeling and you pop one (done it) you can limp it home. Ujoints, break one you have to fix it on the trail no way to limp it out.

Adjustable arms are fine, still need new track bars.
CA's control your axle from moving front to back. Track bars aligns your axles from left to right. Connecting from axle to unibody. This is why longer ones for front and rear must be used.

Don't forget rear sway bar link extensions and possibly extended brake lines (not sure if you need them or not at 3.5" but at 4.5" of lift you will)

A lift will reveal all your steering issues. Make sure you check out everything in the front end. Also a good time to check out your brakes. She's gonna ride far different then stock.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:17 AM   #38
ErikTheRad
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I have no intention of running anything bigger than a 31" tire. Like, ever. I'd like to stay with the CV axles unless its going to cause issues with the 3.5" lift. I intend to purchase both front and rear track bars, the IRO Benchmark kit includes the double-shear bar and I'll add the rear bar.

Should I get both upper and lower adjustable control arms? Or just one set or the other? Looks like IRO makes fixed length arms designed for their kits-- do I really need the adjustable ones? Maybe just the lower adjustable? And do I need front AND rear? If so, its getting kinda pricey.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:19 AM   #39
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Oh and BTW, I really appreciate all the help. And I'm just a lowly "registered user".
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:21 AM   #40
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The more I think about it and look into it and count the money in my head, the more I like the idea of a BB.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:29 AM   #41
tucsonzj
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Originally Posted by ErikTheRad View Post
The more I think about it and look into it and count the money in my head, the more I like the idea of a BB.
It adds up fast. A 3.5 isnt much different then you should do a bb kit anyways. In reality its better to get new track bars no matter what lift you do if you can. You can see how I set up my bb in my build thread (look in my signature below). I did the bb, new shocks, new track bars, rear post extensions, quicker disconnects for front sway, rear sway bar link extensions.

To do a 3.5 its new springs, track bars, shocks, sway bar link extensions (front and rear or just rear if you do quik discos).
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:17 AM   #42
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It doesn't matter what height you run CV axle shafts with. It's the front drive shaft that will pull apart if it's a CV shaft. You have a U jointed front drive shaft so nothing to worry about.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:26 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
It doesn't matter what height you run CV axle shafts with. It's the front drive shaft that will pull apart if it's a CV shaft. You have a U jointed front drive shaft so nothing to worry about.
What comes with a cv axle drive shaft in the front?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:00 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by tucsonzj View Post
What comes with a cv axle drive shaft in the front?
mid to late 95-98 on every 249 equipped ZJ. I am not sure if the I6's came with them or not. All of the V8's did.

I had an early 95 V8 that didn't but I looked at a late 95 V8 and it had a CV.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 12:44 PM   #45
tucsonzj
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
mid to late 95-98 on every 249 equipped ZJ. I am not sure if the I6's came with them or not. All of the V8's did.

I had an early 95 V8 that didn't but I looked at a late 95 V8 and it had a CV.
i have cvs for the half shafts (as in connecting to the hub etc) but my drive shaft is ujoints going into the the diffs.
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