extended brake lines - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-16-2013, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
huntsducks70
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: So Cal
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extended brake lines

so how high can i go before i need to install extended brake lines? currently have a 2" (1.75") BB.

thanks.

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post #2 of 12 Old 07-16-2013, 12:40 PM
rj_osborn
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Dallas Center
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You're good. I had 4 inches without extended break lines and it was ok. I added them eventually tho just to be on the safe side.
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-16-2013, 01:04 PM
tucsonzj
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3.5" seems to be the general top end safe zone of stock brake lines.

His:00 TJ "Fiona" stuff/stuff/stuff
95 ZJ 3.5" w/242 swap-Sold
Hers: 15 JK Sahara-3" Teraflex
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-16-2013, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
huntsducks70
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thanks guys, i guess im good for now, have a good one!
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-16-2013, 11:06 PM
hondakilla98
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I was wondering the same thing. I'm at 4" now and should probably put some on. Should I go for yj or just pay for aftermarket stainless lines?

5.9 Limited, RE 4" lift, RE FTB, JK take offs w/ 255/75/17 BFG MT's, 1.25" wheel adapters, ARB Bumper, Superwinch LP10000, K&N intake, Flowmaster, custom JL & Focal stereo, 20% tint, KOR roof mount tire carrier, JCR sliders, cobra 75 wx st
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-17-2013, 01:09 PM
tucsonzj
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Just do aftermarket, they're not that expensive. Braided steel lines I've heard good things about.

His:00 TJ "Fiona" stuff/stuff/stuff
95 ZJ 3.5" w/242 swap-Sold
Hers: 15 JK Sahara-3" Teraflex
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-17-2013, 05:46 PM
dusterdude
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Braided is the way to go
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-18-2013, 12:32 AM
Timo_90xj
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I'm at 1.75" and stock ones didn't reach at all. I'm running slightly extended WB and wj knuckles though. Stock arms they worked ok, aftermarket arms disconnected, barely long enough. Straightening the hardline bends gives you a bit more slack.

I'd buy aftermarket braided SS lines anyway, for both peace-of-mind and durability. Most likely your rubber lines are very old anyways, suprsingly few people replace them.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-18-2013, 04:25 AM
buttersjeep90
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I have a question about brake lines and abs. i've read you need a drb scanner to bleed brakes on a zj. i have a 97 and my abs no longer works. a buddy of mine/coworker who is always buying and fixing jeeps told me i can bleed them manually and be fine if i ever need to replace a caliper or brake lines, is this true? i hope so i'm thinking about replacing my brake lines just for a peace of mine seeing as at work i've towed a few zj's in the past 2 weeks that had brake lines fail.
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-18-2013, 04:35 AM
Timo_90xj
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It's a lot easier with a DRB tool; you can try to bleed the abs pump "manually", but it is not an accurate method. You either succeed or not.

When replacing calipers or soft lines, fill up brake fluid reservoir over the full limit, and try to work quickly one side & one connection at a time. This way the abs pump won't suck in air and needs not to be bled. When bleeding brakes, make sure fluid reservoir is always close to top mark.

If the pump is no longer functioning and you don't need abs, it can be removed. You need new hard lines from MC to brake proportioning valve, bleed the brakes in a normal fashion and you're done. Remove abs- related fuses and relays.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-18-2013, 08:12 PM
infob
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1993 XJ Cherokee 
 
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I am having a hard time with the abs... Fellow I got my zj from ran the mc dry once filled up I bled the brakes but I can't get the rear drums to bleed... The fronts bled just fine though... And my abs light is on...

Does this sound like the mc is bad from running dry or abs problems? And if I do rip the abs out I just remove the unit under the mc all together and run the brake lines direct to the stock mc?
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-18-2013, 10:01 PM
Timo_90xj
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Read my post above. It has got answers to your questions.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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