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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Exhaust Manifold/Header Replacement

Rampage Bowless Soft Top Oconee offroadAlloy USA Still AvailableAdvance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 06-08-2012, 09:54 PM   #61
ZeeJay1997
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Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Funnnnny! They don't sell that at the family dollar here like they do in NA Zee,or the mc D. "I'll have a big mac and roll of bailing wire please".
You'de be suprised what a hillbilly can do with a roll of duct tape and some bailing wire. Throw in those new fangled zip ties and there's no stopping us!

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Unread 06-09-2012, 02:05 AM   #62
AVR2
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Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
I was able to use a short 9/16 combination wrench as a torque adapter. The 12 point 9/16 slips over the 1/2 drive and used the open end on the nut. At 90* there is no effect on torque value
I did not know you could do that. Thanks
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Unread 06-09-2012, 02:34 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
I was able to use a short 9/16 combination wrench as a torque adapter. The 12 point 9/16 slips over the 1/2 drive and used the open end on the nut. At 90* there is no effect on torque value.

I have the same clearance as you do. I haven't heard it hit and been driving it a month or so. May be a risk of mount failure due to heat. A shield may be a good idea... if there is room for it.
12 point 9/16 slips over the 1/2 drive
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Unread 06-09-2012, 03:00 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by hdrocknroll View Post
12 point 9/16 slips over the 1/2 drive
I don't do non-metric I've been using a 15mm socket for all the manifold mounting hardware. I tried using a 9/16 wrench with a 1/2 drive and the wrench was just fractionally too small (9/16 equates to 14mm I think), while a 15mm wrench fitted perfectly.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 03:05 AM   #65
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How the hell are you supposed to torque the nut on the stud nearest the firewall? Even with a 1/4 ratchet there's just no room to get any swing, so the only approach I can see working is to use wobble extensions and U-joints to get the wrench totally clear of the engine, and of course not being straight on to the nut means that the torque setting will be wrong.

I'm very tempted just to snug it up and call it good. Every other nut/bolt is correctly torqued.

One other thing - the collector pipe on my new header is near-as-dammit touching the engine mount bracket. Perhaps there's a nano-millimetre of clearance. Is that typical? I didn't see how close the old header was to the bracket at that point.
if you can't use the extension at 90 then.
http://www.belknaptools.com/support-...ns-calculator/
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Unread 06-09-2012, 03:12 AM   #66
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9/16/ 0.5625 inch = 14.2875 millimeter
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Unread 06-09-2012, 03:17 AM   #67
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Yep. Just couldn't get the 1/2 drive shaft through the box end of a 9/16 wrench - that 0.8mm made a difference! In any event, the nut is 15mm.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 04:49 AM   #68
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http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...o-shield/51/21
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Unread 06-09-2012, 05:53 AM   #69
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You are the heat shield king, coralman!

About the only standard vs metric wrench conversions I use is 5/16" for 8mm and 7/16" for 11mm. I'll have to check out that 9/16" 12pt box end on a 1/2" drive torque wrench and good tip ZeeJay.

http://www.vaughns-1-pagers.com/scie...conversion.htm

BTW, my 1/2" drive standard size swivel impact sockets are a whole lot more stable than using a swivel/u-joint type adapter, even with tape on it. I've been removing/installing CKP's so many times the 7/16" swivel impact socket works great on this 11mm bolt. You can even get the bolt started with a long extension from underneath with a piece of putty/tape in the end for holding the bolt in.

Of course I bought my set of MAC swivel impact sockets when they were a whole lot cheaper than they are now. About fell over when I saw these sockets selling for about $25/each for a lower quality brand.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 06:35 AM   #70
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I probably should qualify the 9/16 wrench over 1/2 drive thing... the combo wrench I used for torque adapter is cheap and worn. My good snap-on combo wouldn't work. So if you're a pack rat that has been wrenching for years, you may not have to buy a torque adapter to do this right
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Unread 06-09-2012, 09:30 AM   #71
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Yep, sometimes the things with age on them are the best. I just don't mind looking for ways to make stuff last longer. That shielding seems maleable enough to make it conform to any shape. I would think using a true header would keep temps a little lower but the science may not hold that true.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 10:51 AM   #72
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I couldn't get the DIY torque adapter to work, there was just no room to move because the thick part of the wiring loom was in the way. If I'd had a stubby 15mm wrench I'd probably have managed it, but I don't, so in the end I just jacked it up and was able to get a torque wrench straight on to the nut using a deep socket from underneath. Still very fiddly, but at least it's done now
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Unread 06-09-2012, 11:12 PM   #73
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Interesting way of doing it AVR2 and glad you got it torqued.

After re-torquing my manifold bolts, fixing the brake booster vacuum leak, and installing a new CKP, I thought everything was fixed. Took my wife and son on a 70 mile round-trip to my nephew's grad party. As soon as I got off the freeway after 30 miles the engine started loping real bad, smelled fumes, and wanted to idle down to almost nothing. There was no way I was going to let it die in traffic so at every light I revved it up a little in neutral.

Again, the same old heat related problem and it was 88 degrees while having the AC on. Gauges all read normal and had a full tank of gas. I almost took the fuel pressure tester I have, along with my tools, but there was no way I was going to work on it in front of my brother's packed house.

So started driving home when dark and a whole lot cooler (72). Seemed to just bog down a couple times right when I left until I got it up to speed. Then came home the whole way, even made a stop, and no loping problems at all. It's all heat related.

Afraid I'm going to have to throw a new front o2 sensor at it. I'd love to have that fuel pressure text kit with me when it starts loping and connect it to the fuel rail. As mentioned before it reads lean fuel mixture on my scanner when its loping. Kind of at a loss and the only thing I haven't replaced, besides the downstream o2 sensor and throttle body sensors, is the OE fuel pump assembly. I'll see If I can get the engine to lope in the next couple days, since it will be 90+ degrees, and take a reading before thinking about replacing the fuel pump.
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Unread 06-10-2012, 12:27 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Interesting way of doing it AVR2 and glad you got it torqued.

After re-torquing my manifold bolts, fixing the brake booster vacuum leak, and installing a new CKP, I thought everything was fixed. Took my wife and son on a 70 mile round-trip to my nephew's grad party. As soon as I got off the freeway after 30 miles the engine started loping real bad, smelled fumes, and wanted to idle down to almost nothing. There was no way I was going to let it die in traffic so at every light I revved it up a little in neutral.

Again, the same old heat related problem and it was 88 degrees while having the AC on. Gauges all read normal and had a full tank of gas. I almost took the fuel pressure tester I have, along with my tools, but there was no way I was going to work on it in front of my brother's packed house.

So started driving home when dark and a whole lot cooler (72). Seemed to just bog down a couple times right when I left until I got it up to speed. Then came home the whole way, even made a stop, and no loping problems at all. It's all heat related.

Afraid I'm going to have to throw a new front o2 sensor at it. I'd love to have that fuel pressure text kit with me when it starts loping and connect it to the fuel rail. As mentioned before it reads lean fuel mixture on my scanner when its loping. Kind of at a loss and the only thing I haven't replaced, besides the downstream o2 sensor and throttle body sensors, is the OE fuel pump assembly. I'll see If I can get the engine to lope in the next couple days, since it will be 90+ degrees, and take a reading before thinking about replacing the fuel pump.
That sucks, I thought you had it all fixed up.
You will figure it out , it's just a matter of time
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[QUOTE=rooster51;13297693] Whats the worse that can happen? Your jeeps already broke.



[/QUOTE]
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Unread 06-10-2012, 04:05 AM   #75
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This is an out on a limb guess but doesn't the intake air sensor figure into air fuel mixtures in the pcm? If it was slow or out of whack a false reading would be sent. Just a guess and trying to help.
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