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Unread 07-11-2014, 02:07 PM   #1
pwoodbury1
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Exhaust bolt sheared by mechanic

inline 6 cylinder 1995 ZJ. PepBoy's mechanic says he has sheared the very last exhaust bolt close to tranny and can not drill out the remaining shank. Now they claim the head needs to be removed. All I wanted was to remove/replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Argghhh. Any suggestions on extracting that last bolt shank ? Thanks in advance.

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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:08 PM   #2
Professur
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Find a better mechanic for one. With the manifold off, it should be possible to weld a nut to the remaining shank and spin it out.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:13 PM   #3
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Professur View Post
Find a better mechanic for one. With the manifold off, it should be possible to weld a nut to the remaining shank and spin it out.
This X2 . The heat will also free up the bolt . Every time I do this , they come out easy after .
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:15 PM   #4
AVR2
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Ouch. There's very little access right back there, which is the main problem.

Presumably the bolt sheared flush with (or below) the surface of the cylinder head? That's the only reason why you'd need to contemplate pulling it. If the head of the bolt sheared, there'd be plenty of shank left to weld a nut to, as has been said.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 11:58 PM   #5
PTECH
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Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Ouch. Presumably the bolt sheared flush with (or below) the surface of the cylinder head? That's the only reason why you'd need to contemplate pulling it. If the head of the bolt sheared, there'd be plenty of shank left to weld a nut to, as has been said.
Bingo. Nobody is gonna pull the head just for fun.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 02:07 AM   #6
Professur
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A half assed mechanic who can't weld would. I've seen it done with the bolt half an inch recessed. Take a stick electrode and grind a sharp point on the tip. You can bend it 90 degrees if need be. So long as the coating is intact on the sides only the tip will arc.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 05:57 AM   #7
pwoodbury1
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Yeah I need a new mechanic for sure. I am renting down here, my garage with tools is back near Boston. I believe the bolt did indeed shear at or below the outside face of the head, but I will call them as soon as they open to verify that. Pepboys has no welding capability...I suppose I could argue that they could hire someone to come in. Or tow it to a better shop. Is it a stupid idea to support the engine-tranny, loosen or remove tranny cross-member, loosen or remove engine mounts, then drop engine-tranny carefully to gain more clearance? I dunno....hard to believe a sheared bolt necessitates removing the head (which they will then screw that up somehow). Yeah time to find a mechanic I can trust....like finding a needle in a haystack.....I'm new around here. BUT - thank you all for your input and suggestions !!
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Unread 07-12-2014, 06:07 AM   #8
AVR2
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Originally Posted by pwoodbury1 View Post
Is it a stupid idea to support the engine-tranny, loosen or remove tranny cross-member, loosen or remove engine mounts, then drop engine-tranny carefully to gain more clearance?
Without going to look at my ZJ I'm not sure that would help, in fact I think you'd possibly be making the access worse unless you went all the way and dropped it so far it completely cleared the frame.

Removing the hood and cowl would probably improve access though.

Quote:
I suppose I could argue that they could hire someone to come in
This. Surely if Pep Boys is willing to take on jobs like replacing exhaust manifolds, it needs to be fully prepared for the possibility of sheared bolts?
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Unread 07-12-2014, 06:15 AM   #9
pwoodbury1
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okay thanks
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Unread 07-12-2014, 06:50 AM   #10
riot1987
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Originally Posted by pwoodbury1 View Post
inline 6 cylinder 1995 ZJ. PepBoy's mechanic says he has sheared the very last exhaust bolt close to tranny and can not drill out the remaining shank. Now they claim the head needs to be removed. All I wanted was to remove/replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Argghhh. Any suggestions on extracting that last bolt shank ? Thanks in advance.
There is your problem there. Take these guy's advise for the extraction and do yourself a favor and DO NOT GO TO PEPBOYS
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Unread 07-12-2014, 09:31 AM   #11
pwoodbury1
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I hear ya.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 01:07 PM   #12
Uniblurb
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While you'll never be able to prove it the twit pep boys mechanic probably had a socket/wrench on a bind/angle to snap that back bolt off to begin with it. Get it outta there before they do any more damage!
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Unread 07-12-2014, 03:01 PM   #13
Oldfrog
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".... PepBoy's mechanic...."

That says it all. What were you thinking?

Call a reputable shop with real techs, have them tow it to their shop, fix it and bill Pep Boys.
if Pep Boys doesnt pay...here's what to say to the small claims court judge:

"Your honor, when it became apparent that the novice at Pep Boys was in over his head, I decided that a more experienced tech needed to complete the task, in order to mitigate further damage to my vehicle. In short, I no longer trusted Pep Boys."
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Unread 07-12-2014, 05:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Professur View Post
A half assed mechanic who can't weld would. I've seen it done with the bolt half an inch recessed. Take a stick electrode and grind a sharp point on the tip. You can bend it 90 degrees if need be. So long as the coating is intact on the sides only the tip will arc.
Talk is cheap. Prove it. No pictures. No happen
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Unread 07-13-2014, 05:30 AM   #15
pwoodbury1
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Cost of a Dorman 674-196 exhaust manifold (Amazon) $ 137.57 free shipping
Cost to extract my jeep from Pepboys ------------------ $ 943.16
( yeah but 10 % discount coupon, free oil change, free gaskets, LOL )

Now that furthest exhaust bolt position has been over-drilled and a helicoil inserted.
but finally, I'm driving my jeep again.
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