Exhaust bolt sheared by mechanic - JeepForum.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 Old 07-11-2014, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
pwoodbury1
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 6
Exhaust bolt sheared by mechanic

inline 6 cylinder 1995 ZJ. PepBoy's mechanic says he has sheared the very last exhaust bolt close to tranny and can not drill out the remaining shank. Now they claim the head needs to be removed. All I wanted was to remove/replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Argghhh. Any suggestions on extracting that last bolt shank ? Thanks in advance.

pwoodbury1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 Old 07-11-2014, 03:08 PM
Professur
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mo-Ray-Al
Posts: 114
Find a better mechanic for one. With the manifold off, it should be possible to weld a nut to the remaining shank and spin it out.
Professur is offline  
post #3 of 22 Old 07-11-2014, 03:13 PM
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,557
Quote:
Originally Posted by Professur View Post
Find a better mechanic for one. With the manifold off, it should be possible to weld a nut to the remaining shank and spin it out.
This X2 . The heat will also free up the bolt . Every time I do this , they come out easy after .
newfieZJ is offline  
post #4 of 22 Old 07-11-2014, 03:15 PM
AVR2
Web Wheeler
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 3,591
Ouch. There's very little access right back there, which is the main problem.

Presumably the bolt sheared flush with (or below) the surface of the cylinder head? That's the only reason why you'd need to contemplate pulling it. If the head of the bolt sheared, there'd be plenty of shank left to weld a nut to, as has been said.
AVR2 is online now  
post #5 of 22 Old 07-11-2014, 11:58 PM
PTECH
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Ouch. Presumably the bolt sheared flush with (or below) the surface of the cylinder head? That's the only reason why you'd need to contemplate pulling it. If the head of the bolt sheared, there'd be plenty of shank left to weld a nut to, as has been said.
Bingo. Nobody is gonna pull the head just for fun.
PTECH is offline  
post #6 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 02:07 AM
Professur
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Mo-Ray-Al
Posts: 114
A half assed mechanic who can't weld would. I've seen it done with the bolt half an inch recessed. Take a stick electrode and grind a sharp point on the tip. You can bend it 90 degrees if need be. So long as the coating is intact on the sides only the tip will arc.
Professur is offline  
post #7 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
pwoodbury1
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 6
Yeah I need a new mechanic for sure. I am renting down here, my garage with tools is back near Boston. I believe the bolt did indeed shear at or below the outside face of the head, but I will call them as soon as they open to verify that. Pepboys has no welding capability...I suppose I could argue that they could hire someone to come in. Or tow it to a better shop. Is it a stupid idea to support the engine-tranny, loosen or remove tranny cross-member, loosen or remove engine mounts, then drop engine-tranny carefully to gain more clearance? I dunno....hard to believe a sheared bolt necessitates removing the head (which they will then screw that up somehow). Yeah time to find a mechanic I can trust....like finding a needle in a haystack.....I'm new around here. BUT - thank you all for your input and suggestions !!
pwoodbury1 is offline  
post #8 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 06:07 AM
AVR2
Web Wheeler
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 3,591
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwoodbury1 View Post
Is it a stupid idea to support the engine-tranny, loosen or remove tranny cross-member, loosen or remove engine mounts, then drop engine-tranny carefully to gain more clearance?
Without going to look at my ZJ I'm not sure that would help, in fact I think you'd possibly be making the access worse unless you went all the way and dropped it so far it completely cleared the frame.

Removing the hood and cowl would probably improve access though.

Quote:
I suppose I could argue that they could hire someone to come in
This. Surely if Pep Boys is willing to take on jobs like replacing exhaust manifolds, it needs to be fully prepared for the possibility of sheared bolts?
AVR2 is online now  
post #9 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
pwoodbury1
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 6
okay thanks
pwoodbury1 is offline  
post #10 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 06:50 AM
riot1987
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwoodbury1 View Post
inline 6 cylinder 1995 ZJ. PepBoy's mechanic says he has sheared the very last exhaust bolt close to tranny and can not drill out the remaining shank. Now they claim the head needs to be removed. All I wanted was to remove/replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Argghhh. Any suggestions on extracting that last bolt shank ? Thanks in advance.
There is your problem there. Take these guy's advise for the extraction and do yourself a favor and DO NOT GO TO PEPBOYS

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

Build thread^^
riot1987 is offline  
post #11 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
pwoodbury1
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 6
I hear ya.
pwoodbury1 is offline  
post #12 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 01:07 PM
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central
Posts: 6,714
While you'll never be able to prove it the twit pep boys mechanic probably had a socket/wrench on a bind/angle to snap that back bolt off to begin with it. Get it outta there before they do any more damage!
Uniblurb is offline  
post #13 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 03:01 PM
Oldfrog
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Louisiana/Texas
Posts: 5,092
".... PepBoy's mechanic...."

That says it all. What were you thinking?

Call a reputable shop with real techs, have them tow it to their shop, fix it and bill Pep Boys.
if Pep Boys doesnt pay...here's what to say to the small claims court judge:

"Your honor, when it became apparent that the novice at Pep Boys was in over his head, I decided that a more experienced tech needed to complete the task, in order to mitigate further damage to my vehicle. In short, I no longer trusted Pep Boys."

2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
Oldfrog is offline  
post #14 of 22 Old 07-12-2014, 05:24 PM
Technohead
Old School
 
Technohead's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Exeter, RI
Posts: 7,332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Professur View Post
A half assed mechanic who can't weld would. I've seen it done with the bolt half an inch recessed. Take a stick electrode and grind a sharp point on the tip. You can bend it 90 degrees if need be. So long as the coating is intact on the sides only the tip will arc.
Talk is cheap. Prove it. No pictures. No happen
Technohead is offline  
post #15 of 22 Old 07-13-2014, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
pwoodbury1
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 6
Cost of a Dorman 674-196 exhaust manifold (Amazon) $ 137.57 free shipping
Cost to extract my jeep from Pepboys ------------------ $ 943.16
( yeah but 10 % discount coupon, free oil change, free gaskets, LOL )

Now that furthest exhaust bolt position has been over-drilled and a helicoil inserted.
but finally, I'm driving my jeep again.
pwoodbury1 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome