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Unread 08-11-2013, 05:21 AM   #16
970001zj
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1997 ZJ 
 
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get an mk8/tbird fan

no more problems

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Unread 08-11-2013, 07:53 AM   #17
dusterdude
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Blue devil is the stuff,works damn good
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Unread 08-11-2013, 01:00 PM   #18
Camd94224
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yes i would understand if its overheating in 30 mins or sumthing like that but it only takes 5 mins to get hot. so i would think its not just because im only in traffic. i will be doing a cooling flush within the next week. and a new thermostat. and my clutch fan is working i can hear it, it sounds like my jeep is ready to take off. and then i can sit there and drive it and it doesnt seem to want to cool down after it gets hot. and when i shut the car off and sit it doesnt really do to much for it, the coolant is nice and green but i will try the coolant flush and see what happens.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 01:33 PM   #19
SchizophrenicMC
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It should only take 5 minutes to go from cold to 210 at idle. It's gonna take even less time to go from 200 to 230 at idle, in drive, with the A/C running, in summer temperatures.

Your Jeep is healthy dude, it's just extenuating conditions. You might not be used to it, but here in the south it's just a fact of life: cars get hot in traffic with the A/C on. You roll the window down, turn the A/C off and deal.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #20
Camd94224
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i just dont think its how it should be because my brothers with the i6 can sit there with the ac on all day and idle and never get hotter than 210. is it because the cooling system is just to small for the v8?
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Unread 08-11-2013, 02:45 PM   #21
SchizophrenicMC
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The V8 doesn't have as much airspace around the engine, so there's not as much cooling capacity. As well, the transmission builds more heat, especially while idling in drive, and that adds to the heat the radiator has to deal with. You said your Ram with the 318 doesn't get that hot? Makes sense, the Ram has a bigger engine bay and radiator, so it can transfer more heat.

There's no fixing this "problem". It's just a design flaw. You could try wiring in a big electric fan in place of the clutch fan, that might help, but there's certainly no need to replace the thermostat and flush what looks like good coolant, because it's a waste of money and time, and will not solve your issue.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 03:04 PM   #22
zj97ltd
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Many people have had good luck with installing an e fan. You gain a couple hp and have consistent cfm going through the radiator regardless of rpm. It's a win win in my book. Mine gets about a needle width over 210 in traffic with ac on and 90+ degree heat. I just try not to run it hard until it cools back down. By next summer I'll have an e fan.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 05:09 PM   #23
edpmedic
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Clutch fan, reverse flush the system including the heater core. What temp rated thermostat is in there now 180°/195°? I'm sure you checked for debris and cleaned the condenser and radiator fins. Before you start putting anything in. I would do a compression test and a leak down test if able.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 01:34 PM   #24
StPaul59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusterdude View Post
Blue devil is the stuff,works damn good

Interesting. I will keep this in mind when my heater core blows. And I know it will.
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