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Unread 04-03-2011, 09:39 PM   #1
Grand93Cherokee
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Engine Swapping Questions

So my 93 4.0L has developed a major rod knock. I've done some looking around on the forum and done some looking on the net haven't found anything good. So I checked out the local junkyard's website and found they have 11 Grands there all 93-98 and they offer military 20% discount. I'll be doing a recon tomorrow to see what they have. Now the Questions:
1. Any 4.0L will swap from 93-98 without any harness changes or anything, correct?

2.How am I going to know that the engine I'm pulling is worth the trouble? Are there some visual things I could check out tomorrow that would tell me if it is good or not?

3.I'm looking at pulling the head and block together. Are there any other odds and ends I should be looking out for?

Thanks

Thomas


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Unread 04-04-2011, 02:33 PM   #2
Grand93Cherokee
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Junkyard trip got postponed until tomorrow.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 03:40 PM   #3
TheHalfWit
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1. Yea, but you will have to reuse some parts from your 93 as there are some slight changes.

2. Unless I'm mistaken about the best you can do before pulling is just look for obvious damage to the block, and also how the jeep died. If the jeep was rear-ended the engine probably isn't the cause for its being in a junkyard.

3. You might look into doing this upgrade while you have the block out and access to all of this stuff. It will require yanking some stuff from a wj but it looks to be worth it. The intake manifold from a wj, here's a link that details the swap mallcrawlin
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Unread 04-04-2011, 03:45 PM   #4
rdrbssr11
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get it from a 93-95 if you want it to be 100% exactly the same with no changes needing to be made.

most of the time the yards already have the motor pulled so that leaves you somewhat limited. i'd check to see how clean it is (seal/gasket leaks), obviously the nicer it looks the better the chances are it was taken care of. then i'd do a compression check before you install it.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 08:51 PM   #5
Grand93Cherokee
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So from my reading on the forum, If I end up getting an engine from 96-98 I have to use the sensors and air intake off of the 93 4.0L. I'm really looking for less miles so theoretically the newer models would have a better chance of less mileage.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 09:19 PM   #6
Smedly
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I look at the spark plugs to see if the engine is worth buying. If the plugs are nice and clean the engine should be ok.
You could do a compression test also.

As far as the actual swap.....................
You will have to remove the motor mounts to lower the engine so you can access the engine bolts to the tranny. Unbolt the mounts from the engine and frame, don't take out that big bolt that's in the middle of the mount. Be sure to support the engine.
There is also the "shock" (sorry don't know the correct name) on the front suspension, it sits sideways under the front of the engine. I had to unbolt one end and move it for clearance.
Another thing that is good to do it very clearly mark the position of the flywheel/flex plate in relation to the engine before you pull the engine. I used some spray paint once all the bolts to the torque converter were removed. The holes in the flex plate will give you a near perfect mark. If you don't mark this it will be tough getting it all lined up later.

It would also be good to remove the grill, but I got mine in and out with the grill in place, but it's real close. lol
I removed my intake and exaust manifolds from the engine but left the head on.

It will take some raising and lowering to get everything unbolted, also probably a bit of cussing.
I got mine out by myself, but needed someone to help getting it to drop in correctly.

Have fun and be careful, it's a lot bigger than it looks.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 09:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smedly View Post
There is also the "shock" (sorry don't know the correct name) on the front suspension, it sits sideways under the front of the engine. I had to unbolt one end and move it for clearance.
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Unread 04-05-2011, 02:45 AM   #8
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If you get a 96-98 engine you may also run into some computer issues. The 96-98 use an OBD II system. The earlier ones don't. Hence having to swap some sensors. But in 96 they also changed the block design which reduced horsepower from 190 to 185. And in 95 they slightly modified the cylinder head. So if you get an engine other than one from a 93 or 94, you may have some minor issues. A 93-94 engine will be the easiest "plug and play" engine. If you do get a different year, see if they'll throw in the computer. If you make it seem like something you didn't need, you may be able to haggle a price.
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Unread 04-06-2011, 06:09 PM   #9
Grand93Cherokee
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A little update....

I found an engine!! I has 160k on it (little more than i was looking for), but it is from a 93 so the "plug and play" factor is there and it comes with a 2 year warranty, full compression and leak down test prior to pick up. Picking it up on Friday and going to work Saturday morning. Should be an eventful day!!
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Unread 04-06-2011, 06:29 PM   #10
Thelt
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I wonder how hard it would be to get a 5.2 V8 instead of getting another 4.0?
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Unread 04-06-2011, 09:27 PM   #11
Grand93Cherokee
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I thought about it but it would be a little more involved than I'm willing to tackle right now. Plus I'm still using this as my DD so I'll sacrifice power for a little mpg.
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Unread 04-06-2011, 11:26 PM   #12
Pugulis
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It may be a bit late for this, but why aren't you going to put new lifters in the old engine?
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Unread 04-07-2011, 07:37 AM   #13
Thelt
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Originally Posted by Grand93Cherokee View Post
I thought about it but it would be a little more involved than I'm willing to tackle right now. Plus I'm still using this as my DD so I'll sacrifice power for a little mpg.
I am pretty happy with my 4.0, I was just curious. I only have 116k miles on mine so maybe in another 100k or so I will swap in a 5.2......
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Unread 04-07-2011, 11:13 AM   #14
Grand93Cherokee
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Before pulling the engine should I make sure that cylinder 1 in top dead center to make it easier to line up the crank sensor and other sensors to line up?
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Unread 04-07-2011, 05:37 PM   #15
Pugulis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grand93Cherokee View Post
Before pulling the engine should I make sure that cylinder 1 in top dead center to make it easier to line up the crank sensor and other sensors to line up?
Before pulling the engine, you should make sure you need to actually swap out the engine. Like I asked. Are you sure you don't just need new lifters?
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