[philhenry]

I had left my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee outside for about a week without driving, and when I went to drive it again the car wouldn't remain on and the alarm started going off without my remotes being able to shut it off.

I had the Jeep towed to a dealer's service dept. and they say it's a maze of steps to go through to diagnose the problem - it's been there 10 days and they are still trying to figure it out - I think part of the problem is the service level I'm getting, maybe some is confusing to figure out too. I'm now getting the $750 fix comment (circuit board to replace??) but just don't trust it's that complicated.

Can somebody help knowing how this might be simpler and less expensive to fix?? I'm just trying to get it ready to sell, so I don't want to spend another dime on it.

Symptoms:
1) When the key is turned in the ignition the Jeep starts, the alarm goes off and the engine shuts down with a feeling like wind being taken out of the sails - it 'putters' off.
2) When activated by starting the engine, the alarm will not turn off, the only way to shut it down is to unhook the battery.
3) My remotes can lock/unlock all doors/hatch EXCEPT the driver's side door, which only works with the key's manual lock/unlock on door.

THANKS!!! (from a new user to this forum)

[crazydude2500]

i would try hooking the battery up then manually lock and unlock the pass door hatch and driver door....to unarm the security system someone with a wj will help me out on this in a bit not to sure as i only have a zj....wj=99-04 zj=93-98 if you didnt know

[MeWJWifeZJ]

Unlock the passenger door with the key, it sounds like it simply "lost" the sentry code for the chip in the key. Have them re-program the keys to the BCM and try it, $40 fix and they better not charge you diagnostic if that fixes it. It also sounds like you have a bad drivers door lock actuator, as well as not having an alarm disarm sensor still attached to the lock cylinder. Has anyone been inside the door working on a regulator or anything?

[northpaw]

i have a new key that i am about to programme into the car. just to check if the key fitted in the lock i tried to start the car, and it actually started for 2-3 sec then died and the key lamp came on. so I agree, I think they should reprogram your key, or if the key chip is broken, get a new key.

[VulcanJeep]

I don't think the key would go bad just from not being used for a couple of weeks. As suggested above, try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes, to reset the PCM, and make sure the terminals are clean and tight when you reconnect them.

[horatio102]

Broken wire in the driver's door.

Possible dead chip in the key (sentry key).

And quit telling him to put the key in the passenger's door, there are only 2 places to put a key on WJs - ignition and driver's door lock.

[philhenry]

Horatio 102, I think you are on to something...I have had my window regulator in the door replaced and the door panel has never been the same since, it's always a bit loose so wires behind it can be moving...I told the guy at the dealer to check inside the door because of that and he blew me off saying that's not going to have caused the problem...I don't think the sentry key(s) has a dead chip because neither of my 2 keys have a problem unlocking the 3 non-driver doors and they both get the engine to crank over before it stalls out...any idea what kind of wire behind the door would have broken, I'm not a mechanic-type but can look closer if guided appropriately...

Thanks, this is very helpful stuff, much moreso than the dealer's service dept!!!

[philhenry]

Originally Posted by MeWJWifeZJ

It also sounds like you have a bad drivers door lock actuator, as well as not having an alarm disarm sensor still attached to the lock cylinder. Has anyone been inside the door working on a regulator or anything?

I did have the window regulator replaced (another broken part on this vehicle) and they took the driver's door panel off to fix that...what do you think the actuator and an alarm disarm sensor not still being connected to the lock cylinder have to do with my problem of the car not starting?

[horatio102]

My broken wire was in the rubber boot between the door and the body. Pull the rubber boot off of the door side - I don't think you even need to unplug the harness. Just pull the boot back up off the plug where it goes into the door, and then take a look at the wires. The one that broke in mine was I think tan with a blue stripe or some such thing. It was one of the thicker wires, and it was completely broken in 2 about 3" from the plug. I just lightly pulled on the wires until that one came back and I saw it was severed.

I'm not sure about how the imobilizer works, but if the driver's door lock mechanism needs to talk to it, then that very well could be your problem.

It's one of the common problems I hear, broken wires in the door loom, and a super easy fix - piece of wire, two butt connectors, and a stripper/crimper combo. Pull the kick panel back, pull the lose wire out, strip, butt connect an extension on, send it back through, strip and butt connect to the short end, put it back together and you're done.

You wouldn't be able to really diagnose the problem if you were looking IN the door itself...