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Engine overhaul or not
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05-11-2012, 04:36 AM
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#121
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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lots of questions sry if i dont respond to them all its not on purpose! but i am reading and trying everything know that!
@edpmedic as far as the freeze plug goes thats inline with the crankshaft I wasn't sure if removal for it was the same as the others!
hopefully last night the extra plastic and the oil helped to keep things clean!
I am taking the timing chain off! just needed to get the damper to pull the harmonic balancer!
I want to changed so much but it would take me alot longer then I like so I am changing whatever would be a headach to change or possibly cause problems!
I was told the trans leaking down on my exhaust from the bellhousing could cause my rig to get caught on fire!
so i am determined to get this out somehow video is on its way!
just have to take kids to school first then its to work for me
I have all new gaskets, indian hemp, permemex 1, and trans seal, front crankshaft seal, rear main, new pcv valves(i broke mine removing the engine)
I still have to go get the order timing gasket, and switch out my oil pump autozone takes forever!
see ya later!
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05-11-2012, 06:14 AM
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#122
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Baldwin, NY Long Island
Posts: 1,042
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Sounds good
It will take a lot of trans oil leaking to cause a fire mine is leaking and I have had cars that I had to put a quart of atf a week in from a leaking seal and never had a fire. Once you get the Trans Front pump seal on and the Engine Rear seal you should have no problems. Like I keep saying take your time and try to keep things clean on assembly.
I am not sure about the plug to tell the truth. If is a regular freeze plug it should be no problem. Like I said I don't have a manual right now I had a friends Haynes to make a copy of the electrical. I ordered a Factory Shop Manual and still waiting for it. I'm going to go buy a Haynes today or Chilton's which I like better today.
I will look at the video again and see the location. I know it ain't by the crank so I guess you mean by the camshaft.
I know I'm getting a head of myself but while it is on my mind. When you put the torque converter back make you you put it all the way in...Sometimes it feels and looks like it is but it is sticking out enough to cause a problem, Keep it in mind and when it is time Ill explain more. Don't let it be sitting on your mind till the time to install.
Also it is Indian Head Sealer not Hemp....You don't want to be blunting that stuff to smoke.
__________________
Never4get those who gave their lives on 09-11-01 WTC and Pentagon. FDNY-EMS-NYPD-PAPD. Also those who are still dying.
_______________________________________________
"Freedom is never voluntarily given by the oppressor; it must be demanded by the oppressed."
Martin Luther King, Jr.
_______________________________________________
"Always aim at complete harmony of thought and word and deed. Always aim at purifying your thoughts and everything will be well."
Mahatma Gandhi
_______________________________________________
Feel the Sunshine on your face
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05-11-2012, 06:53 AM
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#123
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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http://youtu.be/r3FgE9u3L1U
ok there's the trans! I gonna keep searchin but if any one thinks of anything after watching the video let me know!
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05-11-2012, 07:10 AM
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#124
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edpmedic
Sounds good
I know it ain't by the crank so I guess you mean by the camshaft.
not Hemp....You don't want to be blunting that stuff to smoke. 
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sry me and my making up names for things. but yes its definitely the "camshaft" its in line with! I was told by a mechanic that it does not have coolant there only oil! But like you said it is indeed rusty! but the guy who told me thinks i shouldnt be fixing my jeep myself anyway, and said not to touch it!
I would imagine that would be a cause for oil to leak down the bell housing, and easily mistaken for a rear main leak! just saying! but then again not sure if i can give that area a good smack wit a punch and dead blow to remove it either!
so for now until I get a better way of removing this trans seal im going to get back to my engine assembly, and i love doing things nice and neat, if i was sure i could, i would have painted the thing with some duck tape over all the openings haha! but i'll save it for the one im going to build!
oh and phit pigtail screw driver is one of those like hook screwdrivers?
well i google it! and see! and get back to you!
Oh and i wanted to changed my motor mounts but its gonna cost a lil too much at this point! but I neva had a problem changing them with a bottle jack and a 2x4! now i have equipment if it gets to that point! I did indeed knock a rubber out of one of the mounts ($43 Driver side) but until i feel my engine shaking im gonna hold off! until next pay day! I still have loads of stuff to put on this jeep! new muffler, tail pipe, brakes front and back, just been sitting because i have to finish up this engine!
More trouble im having: http://youtu.be/aq8ENhWvqb4 -removing the damper bolts broke!!!
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05-11-2012, 11:42 AM
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#125
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Victim of Hope & Change
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A shining city upon a hill
Posts: 1,492
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Seal:
The new seal looks like the old one, only the outer lip is not red. If you place the new seal over the old one, don't tear the lip, you'll see that everything lines up. If you look at the old seal from the side, you'll see that the red flange and the front of the tranny are two different pieces. Take a thin screwdriver, and from the side, gently tap the red piece away from the tranny. Tap it evenly all around, and it will come out.
Balancer
You do have the large bolt removed that screws into the crank, right.
Make sure the end of the large screw of the tool is hitting the end of the crank only, and not pressing on the balancer. Use something that will protect the threads in the end of the crank, yet not so large that it will come in contact with the balancer. My guess from the video is that you are inadvertently trying to push against the balancer instead of the crank.
Edit: I just looked again, what's that large washer doing on the front of the balancer. Take that off, and push against the crank.
You'll have to drill that broken bolt out. Use a left handed bit if you have one.
__________________
-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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05-11-2012, 12:12 PM
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#126
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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I do have a left hand bit I drilled the hole and when i went to use the left hand bit a tapping it in further in the hole that i made in the bolt!
the left hand bit decides to snap! inside the hole i just drilled! this is just my luck happens all the time!!
now how do you suggest I get that left hand bit out the hole? and should i drill further? i went in about 1/3 of a inch or a lil more or is my hole to small?
man i tell you to work on vehicles you need patience!
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05-11-2012, 12:13 PM
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#127
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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Note; I will take that washer off now! and do you think i can snatch the balancer off with 2 bolts instead of 3?
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05-11-2012, 12:54 PM
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#128
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Victim of Hope & Change
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A shining city upon a hill
Posts: 1,492
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SINCITY192
Note; I will take that washer off now! and do you think i can snatch the balancer off with 2 bolts instead of 3?
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I notice a larger diameter hole near the top of the hole with the broken bolt. Would you be able to push a bolt thru the puller, then thru this other hole then thread a nut onto it from behind?
Two bolts will only work if they are 180 degrees apart. When pulling, you must always exert a force that is pulling straight out from the crank.
__________________
-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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05-11-2012, 02:33 PM
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#129
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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ok the nut behind the bolt! thats sounds like a plan! thanks I just back in form picking up my kids im going to get to it now!
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05-11-2012, 06:45 PM
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#130
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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worked like a charm sjz thanks a mil! I ended up swapping the harmonic balancer! from the spare engine! the timing chain doesn't have 1/2 inch of slack or more so im not changing it!
I clean the gasket mating surface so now i'll be putting that all back together and also changing the seal!
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05-11-2012, 07:26 PM
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#131
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Victim of Hope & Change
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A shining city upon a hill
Posts: 1,492
|
Quote:
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Originally Posted by SINCITY192
worked like a charm sjz thanks a mil! I ended up swapping the harmonic balancer! from the spare engine! the timing chain doesn't have 1/2 inch of slack or more so im not changing it!
I clean the gasket mating surface so now i'll be putting that all back together and also changing the seal!
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Good man!
__________________
-Steve
"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not." -Thomas Jefferson
___________________________________________
'98 ZJ Laredo 5.2 Selec-Trac (249 to 242 swap)
'05 KJ Limited 3.7 Selec-Trac
'94 ZJ Limited 5.2 Q-Trac- sold, after 17 years
'67 International Harvester Scout 800; 345ci V8,T18 4spd, Dana 20 TC
'06 Chrysler 300C SRT8 6.1L
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05-11-2012, 09:47 PM
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#132
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Baldwin, NY Long Island
Posts: 1,042
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Finally have a minute i'm at a retirement party and running around all day. Read the threads and glad you got the thing off. SZJ will set you right. Got to go back to the party. Good luck. Yea if you have no slack in the chain and the gears look good. Save the money and also check the mounts on the other engine maybe they are better
__________________
Never4get those who gave their lives on 09-11-01 WTC and Pentagon. FDNY-EMS-NYPD-PAPD. Also those who are still dying.
_______________________________________________
"Freedom is never voluntarily given by the oppressor; it must be demanded by the oppressed."
Martin Luther King, Jr.
_______________________________________________
"Always aim at complete harmony of thought and word and deed. Always aim at purifying your thoughts and everything will be well."
Mahatma Gandhi
_______________________________________________
Feel the Sunshine on your face
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05-11-2012, 09:54 PM
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#133
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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No mounts with the other engine unfortunately! but if worse comes to worse i'll swap the motor mounts after the fact! Im not to worried about them! I have changed them before so shouldnt be to much difference!
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05-12-2012, 01:56 AM
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#134
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 1,758
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I still want to know which head you plan to use.
Old or new ?
I think the new one needs to be carefully checked by a shop .
And as I said before I would give the old one a good bath if you plan to use it.
If it was my choice I probably would use the old one if I was on a tight budget .
No shop fee that way .
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05-12-2012, 05:54 AM
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#135
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHARLOTTE, nc
Posts: 178
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I am going to use the new head phit the one from my broken engine because remember i did have the velves and what not service on the thing! i understand that there might be metal shaving there so i will take your advice and give it a good hose down to try yo clean anything that might have got into it! i dont want to use the other heads (i have 3 altogether) my first head definitely needs its valves done thats why i switch heads in the first place i use to burn oil at idle! Now the head that came with the new block i got I really dont trust it its black, and i would need to do a whole lot more cleaning, besides i would hate to get it back together and realize its burning oil too!
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