Got a 95 GCL, & for the past year or so, my Jeep's right rear window wasn't working at all, from either the master switch or the door switch. And I kinda just ignored it. But the other day I discovered this place called U Pull & Pay, where I went in, paid 2 bucks entry charge, & they gave me a list of all their 93 thru 98 Jeeps out in their yard. Quite a few on the list, which was great. Really really cheap prices for their parts, too. But as the name suggests, YOU do the work & get greasy.
Anyway, I decided to dig into that RR window problem. Got it to go up, but it wouldn't come down using either the master or door switches. So I downloaded several wiring diagrams, printed one of them out, and did some research, expecting to be in for somewhat of a long haul once I got started on actually diagnosing the problem at the Jeep itself. I first got out my multimeter & stuck the probes on the unplugged male plug end that connects to the female plug going into the motor. And when I pushed the switch for down, I got 12 volts that would be getting sent to the motor, which I expected. When I pushed it for up though, I didn't get zilch, zero as I was expecting but rather, I got only about 9 volts - not enough to run the motor, and likely not much current available there either, just voltage.
Somebody on here mentioned about wires sometimes breaking where they go thru a rubber boot that runs between the door & the door frame. And somebody else mentioned something about grounding issues causing their problem. So I thought I'd look into that wire bundle going through the door scenario first. Easy to take a boot off.... But I figured that since I'd never had a lick of trouble with any of the other 3 windows, 1 of which, in the driver's door, especially gives the wires a whole lot of flexing, I figured that I probably wouldn't find any probs with those wires in a door that's barely ever used (nope. no kids.). But boy, was I ever wrong about making that assumption.
First thing I saw when got the door frame end of the boot off & got the wire bundle & the connection plug pulled out as far as it would go, & then disconnected the male plug from the female, were 2 wires with copper showing in small spots. Not much, but sure as shoot enough to short something out, for sure. So I electrical-taped those up. So I'm getting ready to try it out, with the bared spots in 2 wires covered up & out in thin air & away from body metal, when I saw something I couldn't believe...... frikkin big ol green wire coming out of the body frame, CUT, with about 3/16 of an inch of pure bare copper showing. Eureka! I knew I'd have my window working soon. That HAD to be it.
Did some digging into the boot & found the other end that had recessed way into the boot. About 1/4 of that end of the green wire was bare, too. Holy cow, I thought. How'n the heck could this have happened? So to make a looong story short, I got out my soldering iron & soldered in a 1 1/2" jumper wire between the two ends, after first pushing some old windshield water hose onto the wire to cover the 2 soldered joints after I'd soldered the jumper in. Tight fit, but that's what I wanted.
Was a real pain in the be-hind dealing with that little short end that'd recessed into the boot (had to push the boot back, & then twist some wire around the boot to keep it from sliding back over the wire I was working on), but I got 2 good solder joints done, rubber hose with elect tape over those, and I stuffed the wire bundle back into the door frame & then had to fiddle around with getting that boot end to go back on & around its special water-resisting round fitting attached to the door frame.
So now..... IT WORKS! yay! Using either switch- the driver's door master & the RR door's.
So you-all who's poking around the net trying to find out why your windows ain't working, best bet's to FIRST take off the rubber boot & see what ya got goin on in there. Sure am glad that I did, right at the beginning.
I don't drink alcohol anymore, but......