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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:02 AM   #1
Cons
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Electrical Problem - Wiring Diagram - Power Windows

Hi

I have a electrical problem with my rear passenger door.

I canīt lock it with the remote, its the only door that doesn't lock.

And I cant control that window from the driver seat, that's the only window I cant control from the driver seat.

Also when i sit at the rear seat I can only use the power window button too but the window down but not up!

Does someone know what could be the problem and where I could get the wiring diagram?

I have already checked the black "tube" that goes in to the passenger door and all the wires are okay. I also tried a new power window button for the rear door but it still only goes down.

Any ideas?



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Unread 02-12-2010, 04:55 PM   #2
Cons
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Some one that knows where I could get the wiring diagram of the ZJ?
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Unread 02-12-2010, 05:21 PM   #3
Falkon
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2004 WJ 
 
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Your problem is most likely a broken wire going to the door. Pull back the rubber cover, and check your wires. Probably a big black ground wire.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 05:30 PM   #4
Cons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkon View Post
Your problem is most likely a broken wire going to the door. Pull back the rubber cover, and check your wires. Probably a big black ground wire.
Where could it be broken? In the drivers door or the passenger door?
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Unread 02-12-2010, 08:11 PM   #5
jeep210
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PM me your email and I will send you the door diagram.

If I am reading the circuit right, I think your problem is a break in the down wire that connects the down side of the door switch to the down side of the drivers master switch.

Last edited by jeep210; 02-12-2010 at 08:37 PM..
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Unread 09-21-2010, 11:44 PM   #6
lazychris2000
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I am having the same issue with my 94 ZJ...any chance you can post the door diagram? Thanks!
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Unread 09-22-2010, 05:46 AM   #7
iPlay1515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons View Post
Some one that knows where I could get the wiring diagram of the ZJ?

Check out the reference to JeepsLimited in the link below. Register and look over the various material that's available as a free download. Did I mention download and free. That's download spelled with a d.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/z...nuals-1103566/
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Unread 10-13-2013, 08:08 PM   #8
kevinkendall
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FIXED - RR Window used to go down, but not up

Got a 95 GCL, & for the past year or so, my Jeep's right rear window wasn't working at all, from either the master switch or the door switch. And I kinda just ignored it. But the other day I discovered this place called U Pull & Pay, where I went in, paid 2 bucks entry charge, & they gave me a list of all their 93 thru 98 Jeeps out in their yard. Quite a few on the list, which was great. Really really cheap prices for their parts, too. But as the name suggests, YOU do the work & get greasy.

Anyway, I decided to dig into that RR window problem. Got it to go up, but it wouldn't come down using either the master or door switches. So I downloaded several wiring diagrams, printed one of them out, and did some research, expecting to be in for somewhat of a long haul once I got started on actually diagnosing the problem at the Jeep itself. I first got out my multimeter & stuck the probes on the unplugged male plug end that connects to the female plug going into the motor. And when I pushed the switch for down, I got 12 volts that would be getting sent to the motor, which I expected. When I pushed it for up though, I didn't get zilch, zero as I was expecting but rather, I got only about 9 volts - not enough to run the motor, and likely not much current available there either, just voltage.

Somebody on here mentioned about wires sometimes breaking where they go thru a rubber boot that runs between the door & the door frame. And somebody else mentioned something about grounding issues causing their problem. So I thought I'd look into that wire bundle going through the door scenario first. Easy to take a boot off.... But I figured that since I'd never had a lick of trouble with any of the other 3 windows, 1 of which, in the driver's door, especially gives the wires a whole lot of flexing, I figured that I probably wouldn't find any probs with those wires in a door that's barely ever used (nope. no kids.). But boy, was I ever wrong about making that assumption.

First thing I saw when got the door frame end of the boot off & got the wire bundle & the connection plug pulled out as far as it would go, & then disconnected the male plug from the female, were 2 wires with copper showing in small spots. Not much, but sure as shoot enough to short something out, for sure. So I electrical-taped those up. So I'm getting ready to try it out, with the bared spots in 2 wires covered up & out in thin air & away from body metal, when I saw something I couldn't believe...... frikkin big ol green wire coming out of the body frame, CUT, with about 3/16 of an inch of pure bare copper showing. Eureka! I knew I'd have my window working soon. That HAD to be it.

Did some digging into the boot & found the other end that had recessed way into the boot. About 1/4 of that end of the green wire was bare, too. Holy cow, I thought. How'n the heck could this have happened? So to make a looong story short, I got out my soldering iron & soldered in a 1 1/2" jumper wire between the two ends, after first pushing some old windshield water hose onto the wire to cover the 2 soldered joints after I'd soldered the jumper in. Tight fit, but that's what I wanted.
Was a real pain in the be-hind dealing with that little short end that'd recessed into the boot (had to push the boot back, & then twist some wire around the boot to keep it from sliding back over the wire I was working on), but I got 2 good solder joints done, rubber hose with elect tape over those, and I stuffed the wire bundle back into the door frame & then had to fiddle around with getting that boot end to go back on & around its special water-resisting round fitting attached to the door frame.
So now..... IT WORKS! yay! Using either switch- the driver's door master & the RR door's.

So you-all who's poking around the net trying to find out why your windows ain't working, best bet's to FIRST take off the rubber boot & see what ya got goin on in there. Sure am glad that I did, right at the beginning.

I don't drink alcohol anymore, but......
kevinkendall
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Unread 10-13-2013, 09:40 PM   #9
throwinwrenches
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Would check for broken wires in drivers door harness wich is easily removable . I small torx bolt in center of plug
In door jamb and 2 plugs just behind drivers left kick panel .release rubber boots and harness is on bench for easy repair.
Rear door jamb harness would have to be repaired on vehicle unless you take whole door apart to rmove harness.
Those are the two most common window and lock issues . All door power options run back and forth to drivers master
Switch for either up or down operation with a series of diodes to prevent power back feed . Wiring diagram is
Tricky to decipher . Hope this helps .
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Unread 10-14-2013, 10:39 AM   #10
mostdanger
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I had the exact scenario pretty much with my rear driver side window. Pulled the boot after 2 weeks of check my motor switches and Internet research. Then I was like f*** why haven't I checked that yet. Found one wire severed and the rest where on their way out. So I fixed them all, then went and check my other doors. I replaced 1 wire and repaired another 7.
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