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Steering and more from Ruffstuff!Bushed Sleeves & Poly Bushings!Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 09-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #16
congerz83
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Congers, NY
Posts: 345
BTW... This is about where my ZJ normally sits temperature-wise... A little hot, no?

temperature-gauge-56004881_1592.jpg

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Unread 09-16-2013, 10:09 AM   #17
dusterdude
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: hopewell, va
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Thats not too bad,mine runs about 220
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Unread 09-16-2013, 06:47 PM   #18
coralman
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: florida
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http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
Makes for a good read
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Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:29 PM   #19
AnotherRedZj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Good post.
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5.2 crate - fourwheelcustoms 2.25 BB - 31x10.50 BFG at-ko's 249/242 swap - front drive shaft upgrade by driveshaftspecialistincorporated - jcr off-road front bumper - engo 12k lbs winch......
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:59 PM   #20
zjosh93
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Originally Posted by coralman View Post
^^^ This.

On the cars that I maintain I always make sure that the battery cables are in very good condition and usually add a couple extra ground wires to link things that normally ground just through the mounting bolts. I have seen dramatic reductions in corrosion on both battery terminals and cooling system parts.
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Unread 09-17-2013, 03:21 AM   #21
coralman
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: florida
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Thanks for the thumbs up!
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Move over bear.I'm tired of working on the jeep

Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 09-17-2013, 06:04 AM   #22
AnotherRedZj
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Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Thanks for the thumbs up!
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Unread 09-17-2013, 09:49 AM   #23
V65Ozzie
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wilson, nc
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Hopefully you have your heater set to high when flushing the system so it goes through the heater core. Also helps to back flush the core and disconnect your hoses at the front/right of the valve cover rather than possibly damaging the soft copper tubes coming out of the firewall. When I replaced my AC evaporator I also replaced the heater core and while I was trying to be careful I could not get the hoses off of the core w/o bending or half-crimping these soft copper tubes. Didn't matter since was replacing the core anyhow.

No need to worry about the heater setting, the heater core is always at full flow, what controls the amount of heat is the blend doors in the plenum. Agree with back flushing the core, also, check the heater hoses for crunchiness, just squeeze them, if they crunch, slap new ones on, corrosion tends to build up in them, in my 97 they got so bad that the heat wouldn't work, I replaced them, flushed the core, and all was good with the world, and my coolant stayed cleaner also,
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Unread 09-18-2013, 04:47 PM   #24
congerz83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V65Ozzie View Post
No need to worry about the heater setting, the heater core is always at full flow, what controls the amount of heat is the blend doors in the plenum. Agree with back flushing the core, also, check the heater hoses for crunchiness, just squeeze them, if they crunch, slap new ones on, corrosion tends to build up in them, in my 97 they got so bad that the heat wouldn't work, I replaced them, flushed the core, and all was good with the world, and my coolant stayed cleaner also,
Yeah... I'm gonna plan to replace the whole system. Radiator, hoses, water pump.

I'm planning on treating myself to a block heater. I figured it would be easier to punch out a freezeout plug if the block was empty...
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