Ebrake cam/lever replacement write up - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Ebrake cam/lever replacement write up

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineRuffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO

Reply
Unread 09-20-2013, 03:23 AM   #1
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
Ebrake cam/lever replacement write up

About a year ago I repaired my emergency/parking brake on my 96 ZJ and have been meaning to do a write-up. This is for rear disc brakes with a cam/lever system for pivoting/pushing out the ebrake shoes and not for full shoe drum type rear brakes on earlier years.

I've found some other ebrake write-ups around which involve cutting or chiseling the cam/lever out and may have come up with a better method. This involves the use of 2 pairs of med/large size vice-grips for prying the seized cam/lever apart. You should be able to salvage them to avoid these pricey parts but since I already bought new cams & levers I went ahead and installed them. And there's no need to remove the rear axles as stated in the FSM to do this repair.

If you live in the salt/rust belt you're more apt to have the cams/levers seized together and with only one small ebrake shoe working on each side it's about impossible to hold/stop a ZJ. Many will try to adjust the tensioner tighter where the 2 ebrake cables come together under the middle of your ZJ but this is factory pre-set. It should never need adjusting unless you replace the cables themselves or disconnect it.

Enough gab, the photos with explanations start with removing the cam/lever but will offer instructions from the onset.

1. Do one side at a time. Block front wheels, make sure ebrake is off, start jacking up, loosen lugs with tires on the ground, jack fully up, install jackstands, remove wheel.

2. Remove caliper by prying out from top and hang from top of spring with wire or tie. Caliper bolt heads can be 13mm, 1/2" or other sizes if replaced before.

3. Spray rust cutter on rear hub where rotor fits on and you may need to sand the rust off the hub 1st. I've also used a razor knife tip to break the rust seal. While many try to pound the rotor off from the backside it's better to install the lugs on loosely then hit it with a big hammer on the front around the studs to pop it loose. The lugs just protect the threads in case you hit a stud.

4. Once the rotor is loose if it won't come off the ebrake shoes may be holding it on. Remove rubber plug in back/bottom and use a screwdriver or brake lever tool to loosen adjuster. You should stick the tool in angled at the top and rotate down to loosen the adjuster.

5. With rotor off you may want to draw a diagram of the spring and adjuster position or take a photo. Don't take all the springs/adjusters off both sides at once unless you know exactly where they go. It's best to lay the springs/adjuster out as they came off on the old shoes. You can use the brake parts on the other side as a reference.

6. Remove the 2 springs and the adjuster. Then hold the back pins with your finger while you remove the front clips from the shoes. I've found a pair of needle nose vice-grips are about the best tool for removing the springs and the clips.

(continued)

__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 04:01 AM   #2
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
cont.

7. Remove the eyelet on the brake cable behind the dust shield from the hook on the end of the lever. Spray the cam/lever down really thoroughly with rust cutter and it's best to let it soak as long as you can. I used to use PB all the time and just switched to the acetone/ATF mix which seems to work better.

8. Adjust your 1st pair of vice-grips and snap it on the cam real tight as can be seen in the below photo.



9. Take your other pair of vice grips, turn them upside down, and snap them on the lever real tight.



10. Vice grips should be positioned on cam/lever as below and start working them up/down in opposite directions while continuing to spray rust cutter between them.



11. It will take some serious prying up/down to break the pin loose between the cam/lever but they can take it since they're made of thick metal. Below the cam is finally loose and it will come out towards the back as you work it around.



(continued)
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 04:42 AM   #3
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
(cont)

12. Both the cam/lever are being removed from the backside behind the hub.



13. Below are the new cam/lever but like I said before if you had a good wire wheel on a grinder you should be able to clean those old ones up. I applied white/lithium grease to where they meet and anti-seize on the pin since that's what tends to corrode/seizes the worst.

The cam fits either side, OE part #4762132, $8-$20 at the dealer.
Right side lever, OE #5179290AA, $23 at dealer.
Left side lever, OE #5179291AA, $23 at dealer.



Here are how they are positioned before being installed.


The lever being installed.


And after both the lever and cam (which is on top) are installed. Note: there's a little meal shelf on the dust cover these ride on. Make sure it is bent back up to stick straight out because it may have been bent slightly down when prying out.



(continued)
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 05:34 AM   #4
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
(cont)

14. After cam/lever are installed connect the eye on the brake cable to the back of the lever. The hook on the lever will always point towards the rear when installed correctly.



15. On the dust shield there are small raised pads the ebrake shoes ride on. Sand these pads off smooth and put some white grease, or brake grease, on them. The shoes will hang up if you don't and both shoes won't be traveling out together. Note the anti-seize I put on the hub so the rotor doesn't rust on but don't get any on the stud threads.



16. With the shoes in place this top spring is a bear to get on with needle nose or pliers with the hub in the way. I found when using the sharp end of a chain saw file this hook on the spring went directly in the hole in the shoe every time. I would wear safety glasses when doing this since not sure about the file breaking and an awl may work too.



I also installed new shoes shown in place with the new top spring attached.


17. These are the needle nose vise-grips I use for putting the spring clips on and clamp them on real tight on the top part of the metal before even holding them on the pin.



18. View of the bottom spring and new self adjuster installed correctly. A new spring kit with self adjusters for both sides is only about $10.



19. After everything is installed pull the lever on the back where the cable attaches and make sure both shoes are moving out together. When installing the rotor just slowly start turning the adjuster a little from it's shortest length before even putting it on. You'll have to have it in neutral to spin the wheel so you can hear if the shoes are dragging on the inside of the rotor drum. Then just pull the rotor back off, adjust it out a little more, put the rotor back on, and keep doing this until you just hear it slightly touching the inside of the drum. Also check to see how tight the ebrake lever is while adjusting this.

Maybe after you drive it a little the ebrake will need adjusted again. Keep in mind if the adjuster is installed correctly to tighten it put the screwdriver or brake tool in the bottom of the slot and rotate the star-wheel on the adjuster up.

Hope this thread helps some and sorry about the length. Some say you don't even need an ebrake and they don't use one. But if you have a brake line blow or something else goes wrong you'll find a working emergency brake comes in real handy.
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 07:12 AM   #5
V65Ozzie
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wilson, nc
Posts: 528
Nice write up. I did mine on my 97, I was able to free up the lever/cam after I worked it out with a liberal application of heat, and sourced missing parts from the JY. The hardware and shoes were purchased new.
__________________
My ZJ has traction control, I call it my right foot.....
V65Ozzie is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 09:33 AM   #6
sebian
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,365
Subscribed! Awesome write-up Uniblurb! Thank you!
__________________
1995 ZJ 5.2L V8 318. 220,000 miles and still rollin.

List of parts not replaced yet:
...
sebian is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 09:53 AM   #7
JeepNicholson
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Burbank, OH
Posts: 755
Nice write up! You live somewhere around here in Buckeye country, I should have you help me do mine!
JeepNicholson is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 10:24 AM   #8
Aceladriver
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Boston
Posts: 398
Nice writeup!

Just did this on mine - but I think this confirms the new levers are dealer only. Is that correct?


gawd I hate living in the rust belt. I swear I'm gonna move to Arizona and never deal with rust or raking leaves again! LOL
__________________
Happiness is clear in the cab and 150 over 150.
Aceladriver is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 10:28 AM   #9
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
Thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNicholson View Post
Nice write up! You live somewhere around here in Buckeye country, I should have you help me do mine!
Yeah, I'd help you out Dan if you're willing to drive down around Carroll which is SE of Columbus and about 2hrs/120 miles away from Burbank!
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 10:39 AM   #10
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceladriver View Post
Nice writeup!

Just did this on mine - but I think this confirms the new levers are dealer only. Is that correct?

gawd I hate living in the rust belt. I swear I'm gonna move to Arizona and never deal with rust or raking leaves again! LOL
Yeah, I've never seen the cam & levers sold anywhere but at the dealer but you may be able to buy them on one of those Mopar online sites but have heard shipping is high.

Curious if you remember what you paid for the cams? Believe I paid $15-$20/each cam, $80 total of 2 levers/cams, but saw somebody else say the cams were only $8 at the dealer.

Know what you mean about the rust around here and those close-up pics are almost embarrassing since it looks like my ZJ has been sitting on the ocean floor for years!
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 11:16 AM   #11
JeepNicholson
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Burbank, OH
Posts: 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Thanks guys!

Yeah, I'd help you out Dan if you're willing to drive down around Carroll which is SE of Columbus and about 2hrs/120 miles away from Burbank!
Thanks, man. I actually live closer to Cleveland now than I did in Burbank, so add about 45 mins to that. Lol

I go to Columbus pretty often (born and raised there) so Carroll isn't that much further. Used to take 33 down to go camping in Hocking Hills quite often, always stopped at that Baskin Robbins in Lancaster for ice cream on the way home. Back then, 33 was still just two lanes!
JeepNicholson is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 11:45 AM   #12
Aceladriver
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Boston
Posts: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
....Curious if you remember what you paid for the cams? .....
I did it but I did it the bad way, LOL.

I just wire wheeled the heck out of mine, painted them with some rustoleum "don't rust" paint and then some black over that. A bit of anti-seize on the pins, and back in.

I'll be back in there in a few months or a year, I'm sure but I'll get the levers next time.

My levers were so bad I held them up to shoulder height and dropped them - several times - and they didn't separate. Strangely enough the set I had from a D44A that was actually left outside in the rain - so bad the backing plates were rotted, well those ones were bad enough that they had scale on them - but they weren't seized. Amazing

I've had to do this on most of my niners. I wouldn't bother except they kind of need to be functional for state inspection - but the 5spd, ya that needs to have a good working park brake, LOL
__________________
Happiness is clear in the cab and 150 over 150.
Aceladriver is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 03:34 PM   #13
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNicholson View Post
Thanks, man. I actually live closer to Cleveland now than I did in Burbank, so add about 45 mins to that. Lol

I go to Columbus pretty often (born and raised there) so Carroll isn't that much further. Used to take 33 down to go camping in Hocking Hills quite often, always stopped at that Baskin Robbins in Lancaster for ice cream on the way home. Back then, 33 was still just two lanes!
Small world and I was born/raised in the N. Columbus and fled it for the country almost 30 years ago. I know the Hocking Hills well, used to go down there to camp too, and know the exact Baskin Robbins you're talking about.

Lancaster is so crowded now with so many lights to stop at it's nice they opened the new outer-belt around it about 8 years ago. When 1st opened it was like a race track and I remember reading where they clocked at Corvette at 120mph and never could catch him! Lol.
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 03:43 PM   #14
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,938
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceladriver View Post
I did it but I did it the bad way, LOL.

I just wire wheeled the heck out of mine, painted them with some rustoleum "don't rust" paint and then some black over that. A bit of anti-seize on the pins, and back in.

I'll be back in there in a few months or a year, I'm sure but I'll get the levers next time.

My levers were so bad I held them up to shoulder height and dropped them - several times - and they didn't separate. Strangely enough the set I had from a D44A that was actually left outside in the rain - so bad the backing plates were rotted, well those ones were bad enough that they had scale on them - but they weren't seized. Amazing

I've had to do this on most of my niners. I wouldn't bother except they kind of need to be functional for state inspection - but the 5spd, ya that needs to have a good working park brake, LOL
Kind of the purpose of this thread where you don't destroy the cam/lever when removing them so more power to you for refurbishing them.

Probably the ones which weren't seized while sitting outside in the rain were a whole lot better off than being punished by road-salt every winter.

Yep, I maintain 4 Jeeps all with good ebrakes. Came in real handy a couple months ago on my 93 4.0 5-spd XJ where a dam squirrel bit a hole in my front caliper hose and ended up with no brakes when the hose blew. Was able to limp 5 miles home in rush hour traffic just downshifting and using the ebrake to stop.
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-20-2013, 06:18 PM   #15
coralman
I can wish can't I?
 
coralman's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 4,819
Good write up Uni!. I can't remember if I reused the old ones or got new when I did the rear axle. Good pics too!
__________________
Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
coralman is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.