14. After cam/lever are installed connect the eye on the brake cable to the back of the lever. The hook on the lever will always point towards the rear when installed correctly.
15. On the dust shield there are small raised pads the ebrake shoes ride on. Sand these pads off smooth and put some white grease, or brake grease, on them. The shoes will hang up if you don't and both shoes won't be traveling out together. Note the anti-seize I put on the hub so the rotor doesn't rust on but don't get any on the stud threads.
16. With the shoes in place this top spring is a bear to get on with needle nose or pliers with the hub in the way. I found when using the sharp end of a chain saw file this hook on the spring went directly in the hole in the shoe every time. I would wear safety glasses when doing this since not sure about the file breaking and an awl may work too.
I also installed new shoes shown in place with the new top spring attached.
17. These are the needle nose vise-grips I use for putting the spring clips on and clamp them on real tight on the top part of the metal before even holding them on the pin.
18. View of the bottom spring and new self adjuster installed correctly. A new spring kit with self adjusters for both sides is only about $10.
19. After everything is installed pull the lever on the back where the cable attaches and make sure both shoes are moving out together. When installing the rotor just slowly start turning the adjuster a little from it's shortest length before even putting it on. You'll have to have it in neutral to spin the wheel so you can hear if the shoes are dragging on the inside of the rotor drum. Then just pull the rotor back off, adjust it out a little more, put the rotor back on, and keep doing this until you just hear it slightly touching the inside of the drum. Also check to see how tight the ebrake lever is while adjusting this.
Maybe after you drive it a little the ebrake will need adjusted again. There's a rubber oval plug on the back/bottom of the dust shield. Remove this plug and to tighten the adjuster moving the shoes out put a screwdriver or brake adjusting tool
in the bottom of the slot and rotate the star-wheel on the adjuster up.
Hope this thread helps some and sorry about the length. Some say you don't even need an ebrake and they don't use one. But if you have a brake line blow or something else goes wrong you'll find a working emergency brake comes in real handy.
: I added "parking brake" to the title since some may not find this thread in a search with just slang "Ebrake" in the title. Also adding some aftermarket part numbers along with diagrams from the 94-96 parts list for individual OE shoes, hwd and cables.
Below OE cam/lever numbers also found in the photos
The cam fits either side, OE #4762132, $8-$20 at dealer.
Right side lever, OE #5179290AA, $23 at dealer.
Left side lever, OE #5179291AA, $23 at dealer.
Aftermarket part numbers for 94-98 ZJ per Rockauto
Raybestos H7002 parking brake hwd kit w/adjuster, $16
Dorman HW7002 parking brake hwd kit w/adjuster, $13
Parking brake shoes, Raybestos 701 PG, $21
Parking brake shoes, Wagner PAB701 TQ, $18
Cable, rear left, Raybestos BC95347, $20
Cable, rear left, Wagner BC140874, $20
Cable, rear right, Raybestos BC95342, $15
Cable, rear right, Wagner BC140873, $20
Cable, front at lever, Raybestos BC94368, $14
Cable, front at lever, Wagner BC132075, $10
Can't vouch for the quality of the above parts. I'm sure many may use the local parts stores if buying aftermarket parts. Only listed a couple of the more well-known brands which can also be used for online orders.
Below is a diagram of the brake shoes/hwd from the 94-96 parts list. Only included those parking brakes with rear disc brakes and not drum brakes. There's also a diagram on the parking brake cabling for 94-96 ZJ's. Many of the part numbers may be superseded with newer ones.
Here's the 2 diagrams.