| #1 | |||
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Grandville, MI Posts: 215 | E-brake shot??
__________________ 1995 ZJ Ltd. 5.2L 46RH Swapped in NP 242 IRO 3.5" Fauxmaster Muffler 30" BFG AT's wrapped around AR 767 wheels | ||
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| #2 | ||
Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: pennsylvania Posts: 4,459 | Quote:
__________________ '97 zj 5.2 limited, white, 4.5" claytons, nv3500, 8.8" eaton e locker, 231 w/ novak shifter, kevins stuff, addco, motor bolt ons. | |
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| #3 | |
Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Northampton, Ma Posts: 85 | Your e-brake is supposed to hold the car when you have it in drive and depress the accelerator to 1300RPM. If not then it either needs adjusting and/or new pads. I don't know how much you know about e-brakes but it's basically a cable that is pulled when you pull handle that runs under the car. This cable splits in two under the middle of the undercarriage at the equalizer. These two cables run to the rear tires that pull two pads apart on the inside of the rear rotors...it's like a drum brake inside the rotors. Take off the rear rotors, if the pads are worn replace them; take a look at the inside of you rotors and look for heavy rust...which isn't good either. You can adjust the e-brake pads at the equalizer and with the star bolt in the brake assembly (you'll see it in there when you take off the rotors). My equalizer was exposed to the road; I had to cut the adjusting bolt off and replace it with a new one. As for the star bolts, get them unstuck while you have the wheel off and then you can adjust from the back after you put the rotor back. I just overhauled my e-brakes so I have a lot to say. Let me know if you need more info. Nik |
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| #4 | |
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Grandville, MI Posts: 215 | Thanks for the info Nik. -Joseph __________________ 1995 ZJ Ltd. 5.2L 46RH Swapped in NP 242 IRO 3.5" Fauxmaster Muffler 30" BFG AT's wrapped around AR 767 wheels |
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