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Unread 08-02-2009, 04:11 PM   #1
nkatzboy
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DW caused by driveshaft?

The back story is I have a 2004 Grand cherokee with a 4" IRO front long arm lift kit. I'm running 32s on the stock rims. I have had the kit for roughly 2 years and have been fight DW since about 2 or 3 months after the kit was installed. The jeep has had 15 alignments, 30 wheel balances and rotations, the IRO track bar that failed was replaced with a JKS, Dual stabilizers and have even gone as far as adding an upper control arm to the passenger side. It has been to 2 mechanics, 2 4x4 shops, 2 different tire shops and i'm currently sitting at roughly $5000 after the lift kit. If there is a DW list out there I have run through it.

At 45+ mph and you hit certain bumps the entire vehicle trys to shake it self apart (DW). Everything that has been done to it seems to fix it for a week or so then it returns. The newest theory is this, when it's a bump that drops the front axle and extends the front drive shaft it causes the drive shaft to get outta balance or gives it an extreme angle and that is what is currently causing something extremely like DW. Until you slow down and almost stop or stop, which slow down the shaft, it vibrates so hard that it is transfering this out to the wheels into the steering wheel. I do have the IRO transfer drop installed. There is also a vibration that occurs at around 60 or 70 mph just running down the road that occurs around the transfer case.

Has anyone had an issue similar to this or this exact issue. Or does this seem to sound like a reasonable idea. I'm really looking for a 3rd opinion here because like I said I currently have proabably one of the most expensive 4" lifts on the road. Any help is appreciated even if you tell me that me and the 4x4 shops are going crazy. Thanks for the help

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Unread 08-02-2009, 04:19 PM   #2
gatorayde
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No, your driveshaft will not cause DW. Have you checked your track bar mounts to make sure the holes aren't ovaled out? How much play is in your steering wheel? I went through pretty much the same thing you did and my steering box was the cause.

And get that control arm out of there. I'm guessing you added a short arm in there which will throw your steering geometry waaaay out of whack when you hit bumps.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 04:34 PM   #3
Kruzin
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x2.
A DS can cause a vibe, but not DW.
DW is something loose in the steering or front suspension.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 05:25 PM   #4
nkatzboy
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The added control arm is because for some reason the IRO would not maintain alignment and after using an impact and torqueing you could kick a tire and throw it out. It's a JK upper adjustable arm added to maintain alignment. NOT a short arm. Also the track bar holes have been measured and the torques checked more time than I can count. Definatly not the problem. I've been through every list available from ones found on here to ones provided by several lift kit manufacturers nothing works.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 05:34 PM   #5
nkatzboy
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Oh and the steering gearbox has been checked and is as tight as one could possibly make it. Outside tires there is nothing on the unit that hasn't been replaced, torqued, aligned or greased.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 05:41 PM   #6
gatorayde
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkatzboy View Post
The added control arm is because for some reason the IRO would not maintain alignment and after using an impact and torqueing you could kick a tire and throw it out. It's a JK upper adjustable arm added to maintain alignment. NOT a short arm. Also the track bar holes have been measured and the torques checked more time than I can count. Definatly not the problem. I've been through every list available from ones found on here to ones provided by several lift kit manufacturers nothing works.
What is this "adjustable JK control arm"? If you are using the factory mount on the frame, it is a short arm. The only way to get a second arm in there is to duplicate, EXACTLY like the drivers side upper which you would probably have to have IRO do.

Many people run the 3 link IRO setup with absolutely no issues.

List of everything you've done so far to combat DW.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:01 PM   #7
nkatzboy
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The list is as follows: All tie-rod ends have been replace, the IRO track bar was replaced with a JKS due to the end stretching, steering gearbox play and mounting checked, multiple alignments with several suggested settings (currently at IRO suggested), driver side ball joints replaced (very very minor play), bearing inspected, wheels and tires have had multiple balances, It already has front long arms, the stock stabilizer was replaced and the second was added.

The passenger side upper control arm is actually an adjustable arm for a JK and is mount in the stock position. It's primary job at this point has been to help keep the axle from losing it's caster adjustment which like I stated before you could drive off the rack down the road hit a few bumps come back put it back on the rack and it would be off 2-3 degrees. With the extra arm in there it stopped having this problem. After that it worked for about 2 months and my issue has come back with avengance
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:05 PM   #8
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Oh and as suggested by IRO my 32s are running at reduced psi.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:17 PM   #9
Kruzin
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How does the trac bar mount at the axle look?
Does the nut or bolt show any wear outside the heads?
It's very common for the bracket on the axle to oval out.
Even when torqued to specs, if that hole is ovaled, it WILL wobble.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:22 PM   #10
nkatzboy
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We've actually taken calipers to to control arm and track bar mounting holes and i've contacted jeep for the specs everything comes out in spec. I'm literally down to swapping out the steering gearbox and putting in IRO's drop pitman arm just for giggles. Or replace the tires under the assumption that all 4 a bad and everytime we do something the wheels and tires get balance and that's the fix for a short time. Other than that bad shocks which I opted for the Bilstein 5100 series or something is wrong with the springs possibly but unlikly
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:24 PM   #11
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Get that control arm out. It doesn't matter if your passenger side's caster is thrown out of spec a bit (which isn't as crutial as toe-in), mixing and matching long/short arms is asking for DW. Reducing your tires PSI is just masking the DW. If you do a drop track bar you also need a drop pitman arm or vice-versa.

Did you replace both drivers side ball joints or just one? Have you replaced the passenger side ball joints?
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:29 PM   #12
nkatzboy
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The passenger ball joints have also been replaced I forgot to mention that.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:30 PM   #13
UTChavok
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How are the tires tread design and wear wise? I had a bad set of wildtracks and they caused deathwobble. Throw someone elses tires in the 31-33 range and see how it handles. I got my BFGs and it fixed it all. Drives like a dream now compared to it before.

Id also agree on getting that control arm out. On the road you may not have a huge problem but anytime you go to flex youll bind up and could cause some nasty problems.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 06:31 PM   #14
gatorayde
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First things first then, get that control arm out. Then report back on whether it's gotten better or worse.
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