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Unread 10-14-2013, 12:55 AM   #16
dnuccio
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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ive never used gaskets on my diffs, just some black RTV. they havent leaked a drop

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Unread 10-15-2013, 09:11 AM   #17
igids1
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Is there a washer between the yoke and the yoke nut on the dana 35?

Also, is there a thrust washer on the pinion between the yoke and the bearing?

I was trying to keep track of everything, but once I took the yoke nut off, everything just fell apart, the yoke fell off, and the pinion fell out. I did not have to tap or pry on any of it. So I just want to make sure I am not looking for any other pieces.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:27 AM   #18
Myusername1674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igids1 View Post
Is there a washer between the yoke and the yoke nut on the dana 35?

Also, is there a thrust washer on the pinion between the yoke and the bearing?

I was trying to keep track of everything, but once I took the yoke nut off, everything just fell apart, the yoke fell off, and the pinion fell out. I did not have to tap or pry on any of it. So I just want to make sure I am not looking for any other pieces.
Shoot it's been awhile since i did my 35. I'm thinking that there IS a washer between the yoke and the nut. But i can't remember for certain.

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Unread 10-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #19
igids1
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Thought I would give an update if anyone is interested. I reinstalled the pinion and carrier today. What a difference!! I am very happy I went ahead and gave it a go. Jeep no longer shakes like crazy, and the loud howling is gone. I know its only been one day, but so far so good.

If anyone has any questions, I can throw in my experience with this.

I was nervous about attempting this after reading so many posts advising not to undertake the task.

I didn't use any special tools, other than an ingersoll rand impact gun on the yoke nut. I'll be honest, I am not really certain if I crushed the crush sleeve or not. The impact gun is a high end one, it can handle just about anything. I tightened the yoke nut until there was no more play in the pinion. Then I kept the gun on the nut until it went another 1/8-1/4 turn. Turning the yoke felt a little harder than turning a door knob. I figure the bearings will seat a little bit after driving and give a tiny bit of play.

I got the master rebuild kit for 65, and it was another 20 for gear oil. I know people will not like this method, but for $85 I'll be more than happy even if I only get 10,000 miles out of the whole thing. It was a great experience. I would do it again, and I would feel much more knowledgeable next time.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 07:23 AM   #20
newfieZJ
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Would have been nice to know the pre-load on the bearings and backlashe spec . Some door knobs are harder to turn than others . I just did one and would compare it to turning a stiff door knob , but it was also in new bearing spec . For the cost of the torque/needle wrench , and the time involved , it would be worth the check . Tighten as needed and it could very well outlast the jeep . Kudo's to you for even taking it on . The way I see it , screw it up once , do it right the 2nd time , and still be cheaper than paying someone else .
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Unread 10-20-2013, 01:53 PM   #21
igids1
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Newfie, to be honest, after reading probably 100+ posts, mostly on this forum, about the process, I was so scared that it would be nearly impossible to do as a diy project. If I thought it would have come out nearly as nice, I would have invested the extra money to have a torque wrench so I could have gotten an accurate measurement on the pre-load.

If/when I do it again, knowing what I know now, I would certainly get a torque wrench. The whole process seemed a little overwhelming at first, but now that I have done it, I have a much better grasp/understanding of the "big picture", and next time I can focus much more on the precise specs.

Initially, the terms "backlash" "preload" etc, were a completely foreign language, but experiencing them all hands on was more informative to me than reading 1,000 articles.

The jeep was no longer safe to be on the road at the stage it was at, so I was in some part, just using it as a fun experience. It was worth the risk and the experience for $85.

I do not need absolute perfection to be satisfied, and like I say, if I only get a few months out of it, then to me, it was well worth it!
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Unread 10-20-2013, 02:24 PM   #22
newfieZJ
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$1200 here for a D30 rebuild . You spent $85 . Gives lots of left over money to do it again . The experience is the key . Diffs aren't complicated , just stinky . Anyone can do it . Really , you need a 300lb torque wrench , needle type torque wrench , dial indicator with a magnetic base , depth gauge and a jig/homemade wrench to hold the yoke . Air tools optional . Specs are readily available . No reason why this can't be a straight forward DIY with a little tool investment .

Maybe this thread will encourage others to try and save hundreds . Keep this updated in say , a few months
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Unread 10-21-2013, 11:09 AM   #23
nhcd538
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Good job man. My pinion bearing is on it's way out, too. No way I'm attempting this job, I'll just take an afternoon and swap axles. But good for you for doing it. That's what it's all about!

(Next time take photos...haha).
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Unread 10-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #24
igids1
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Nhcd, thanks. I had originally planned on doing the axle swap. I got.discouraged when I saw the brake lines all rusted, and following them back everything was rusted. I even found someone selling one for $50. Plus I figured I'd still have to deal with the yoke nut and crush sleeve either way.
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Unread 01-18-2014, 04:40 PM   #25
igids1
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Newfie.......An update (mainly for you), here it is, 3 months later. Time has flown by! Seems like just yesterday I was rebuilding the diff. Soo....still running great!! Quiet, smooth, etc. So I am more than happy. I am having other issues, like the dash lights flashing (repaired), volt meter going to 11, then to zero, battery dying etc (fixed), and now I have to figure out my problem with the blower motor.
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Unread 01-18-2014, 06:05 PM   #26
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Never mind......inter webs be trippin
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Unread 01-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #27
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igids1 View Post
Newfie.......An update (mainly for you), here it is, 3 months later. Time has flown by! Seems like just yesterday I was rebuilding the diff. Soo....still running great!! Quiet, smooth, etc. So I am more than happy. I am having other issues, like the dash lights flashing (repaired), volt meter going to 11, then to zero, battery dying etc (fixed), and now I have to figure out my problem with the blower motor.
Good to hear . Thanks for the update

Is your heater issue the blower motor resistor ? Only work on high ?

What was your voltage issue fix ?
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Unread 01-19-2014, 09:21 AM   #28
igids1
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Using the manual switch on the climate control, the blower motor will not engage at all. There is power to the motor. Right now I have it grounded via a regular home light switch, which makes it run only on high. I took the climate control apart, and replaced the relay inside. If I ground or short out the 4 prongs that the relay connects to, the blower will operate at all the speeds, but will not stop when I turn the ignition off.

The voltage issue fix was I got a 120 amp rebuilt alternator from an auto parts store, I do not know if I can name them here (forum rules?) for 60 bucks. It bolted right in, only one wire connector was a little different location. I also cleaned off the ground terminals, but it was mainly the alternator was only putting out some power some of the time.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 01:56 PM   #29
newfieZJ
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Heater issue sure sounds like the resistor . I've had 2 fail . One still worked , high only , the other would not shut off .
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Unread 05-03-2014, 10:17 AM   #30
igids1
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Here we are 7 months later. The rear end is still going strong! Having some issues with various suspension components. Might start looking for another jeep soon!
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