Driveshaft bouncing at the rear diff. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16 of 30 Old 10-14-2013, 12:55 AM
dnuccio
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,483
ive never used gaskets on my diffs, just some black RTV. they havent leaked a drop


Reliability is relative
R.I.P. Ratmonkey
dnuccio is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 30 Old 10-15-2013, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Is there a washer between the yoke and the yoke nut on the dana 35?

Also, is there a thrust washer on the pinion between the yoke and the bearing?

I was trying to keep track of everything, but once I took the yoke nut off, everything just fell apart, the yoke fell off, and the pinion fell out. I did not have to tap or pry on any of it. So I just want to make sure I am not looking for any other pieces.
igids1 is offline  
post #18 of 30 Old 10-15-2013, 10:27 AM
Myusername1674
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 2,310
Quote:
Originally Posted by igids1 View Post
Is there a washer between the yoke and the yoke nut on the dana 35?

Also, is there a thrust washer on the pinion between the yoke and the bearing?

I was trying to keep track of everything, but once I took the yoke nut off, everything just fell apart, the yoke fell off, and the pinion fell out. I did not have to tap or pry on any of it. So I just want to make sure I am not looking for any other pieces.
Shoot it's been awhile since i did my 35. I'm thinking that there IS a washer between the yoke and the nut. But i can't remember for certain.

Sent from my couch using JeepForum app

95 FiveTwo ZJ, DD, Lifted, Locked on 35s,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(in progress)



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Myusername1674 is offline  
post #19 of 30 Old 10-19-2013, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Thought I would give an update if anyone is interested. I reinstalled the pinion and carrier today. What a difference!! I am very happy I went ahead and gave it a go. Jeep no longer shakes like crazy, and the loud howling is gone. I know its only been one day, but so far so good.

If anyone has any questions, I can throw in my experience with this.

I was nervous about attempting this after reading so many posts advising not to undertake the task.

I didn't use any special tools, other than an ingersoll rand impact gun on the yoke nut. I'll be honest, I am not really certain if I crushed the crush sleeve or not. The impact gun is a high end one, it can handle just about anything. I tightened the yoke nut until there was no more play in the pinion. Then I kept the gun on the nut until it went another 1/8-1/4 turn. Turning the yoke felt a little harder than turning a door knob. I figure the bearings will seat a little bit after driving and give a tiny bit of play.

I got the master rebuild kit for 65, and it was another 20 for gear oil. I know people will not like this method, but for $85 I'll be more than happy even if I only get 10,000 miles out of the whole thing. It was a great experience. I would do it again, and I would feel much more knowledgeable next time.
igids1 is offline  
post #20 of 30 Old 10-20-2013, 07:23 AM
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,557
Would have been nice to know the pre-load on the bearings and backlashe spec . Some door knobs are harder to turn than others . I just did one and would compare it to turning a stiff door knob , but it was also in new bearing spec . For the cost of the torque/needle wrench , and the time involved , it would be worth the check . Tighten as needed and it could very well outlast the jeep . Kudo's to you for even taking it on . The way I see it , screw it up once , do it right the 2nd time , and still be cheaper than paying someone else .

1995 Orvis build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1988 MJ build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Slate 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Platinum 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
newfieZJ is offline  
post #21 of 30 Old 10-20-2013, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Newfie, to be honest, after reading probably 100+ posts, mostly on this forum, about the process, I was so scared that it would be nearly impossible to do as a diy project. If I thought it would have come out nearly as nice, I would have invested the extra money to have a torque wrench so I could have gotten an accurate measurement on the pre-load.

If/when I do it again, knowing what I know now, I would certainly get a torque wrench. The whole process seemed a little overwhelming at first, but now that I have done it, I have a much better grasp/understanding of the "big picture", and next time I can focus much more on the precise specs.

Initially, the terms "backlash" "preload" etc, were a completely foreign language, but experiencing them all hands on was more informative to me than reading 1,000 articles.

The jeep was no longer safe to be on the road at the stage it was at, so I was in some part, just using it as a fun experience. It was worth the risk and the experience for $85.

I do not need absolute perfection to be satisfied, and like I say, if I only get a few months out of it, then to me, it was well worth it!
igids1 is offline  
post #22 of 30 Old 10-20-2013, 02:24 PM
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,557
$1200 here for a D30 rebuild . You spent $85 . Gives lots of left over money to do it again . The experience is the key . Diffs aren't complicated , just stinky . Anyone can do it . Really , you need a 300lb torque wrench , needle type torque wrench , dial indicator with a magnetic base , depth gauge and a jig/homemade wrench to hold the yoke . Air tools optional . Specs are readily available . No reason why this can't be a straight forward DIY with a little tool investment .

Maybe this thread will encourage others to try and save hundreds . Keep this updated in say , a few months

1995 Orvis build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1988 MJ build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Slate 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Platinum 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
newfieZJ is offline  
post #23 of 30 Old 10-21-2013, 11:09 AM
nhcd538
Member
 
nhcd538's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Marcy, NY
Posts: 326
Good job man. My pinion bearing is on it's way out, too. No way I'm attempting this job, I'll just take an afternoon and swap axles. But good for you for doing it. That's what it's all about!

(Next time take photos...haha).

1999 TJ 2.5L AX5 NP231 D35/30 4.11's
*Disclaimer - I've probably had a few beers
nhcd538 is offline  
post #24 of 30 Old 10-21-2013, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Nhcd, thanks. I had originally planned on doing the axle swap. I got.discouraged when I saw the brake lines all rusted, and following them back everything was rusted. I even found someone selling one for $50. Plus I figured I'd still have to deal with the yoke nut and crush sleeve either way.
igids1 is offline  
post #25 of 30 Old 01-18-2014, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Newfie.......An update (mainly for you), here it is, 3 months later. Time has flown by! Seems like just yesterday I was rebuilding the diff. Soo....still running great!! Quiet, smooth, etc. So I am more than happy. I am having other issues, like the dash lights flashing (repaired), volt meter going to 11, then to zero, battery dying etc (fixed), and now I have to figure out my problem with the blower motor.
igids1 is offline  
post #26 of 30 Old 01-18-2014, 06:05 PM
speedbucket
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: chesapeake
Posts: 3,562
Never mind......inter webs be trippin


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
speedbucket is offline  
post #27 of 30 Old 01-18-2014, 07:23 PM
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,557
Quote:
Originally Posted by igids1 View Post
Newfie.......An update (mainly for you), here it is, 3 months later. Time has flown by! Seems like just yesterday I was rebuilding the diff. Soo....still running great!! Quiet, smooth, etc. So I am more than happy. I am having other issues, like the dash lights flashing (repaired), volt meter going to 11, then to zero, battery dying etc (fixed), and now I have to figure out my problem with the blower motor.
Good to hear . Thanks for the update

Is your heater issue the blower motor resistor ? Only work on high ?

What was your voltage issue fix ?

1995 Orvis build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1988 MJ build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Slate 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Platinum 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
newfieZJ is offline  
post #28 of 30 Old 01-19-2014, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Using the manual switch on the climate control, the blower motor will not engage at all. There is power to the motor. Right now I have it grounded via a regular home light switch, which makes it run only on high. I took the climate control apart, and replaced the relay inside. If I ground or short out the 4 prongs that the relay connects to, the blower will operate at all the speeds, but will not stop when I turn the ignition off.

The voltage issue fix was I got a 120 amp rebuilt alternator from an auto parts store, I do not know if I can name them here (forum rules?) for 60 bucks. It bolted right in, only one wire connector was a little different location. I also cleaned off the ground terminals, but it was mainly the alternator was only putting out some power some of the time.
igids1 is offline  
post #29 of 30 Old 01-19-2014, 01:56 PM
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6,557
Heater issue sure sounds like the resistor . I've had 2 fail . One still worked , high only , the other would not shut off .

1995 Orvis build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1988 MJ build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Slate 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1998 Platinum 5.9 build

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
newfieZJ is offline  
post #30 of 30 Old 05-03-2014, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
igids1
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: brockton
Posts: 31
Here we are 7 months later. The rear end is still going strong! Having some issues with various suspension components. Might start looking for another jeep soon!
igids1 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome