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Unread 02-19-2013, 11:00 AM   #16
Uniblurb
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: Central, Ohio
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Thanks for pointing out the latches/actuators are driver/passenger side specific. Don't know why the "Chrysler Parts List" wouldn't list the drivers side ones. I know the front/back is also specific because of the child protection flip switch on the door jams of the rear latches.

LOL, on being able to replace them with large hands! Not sure if the 96 and 98 are exactly the same but where I had the most problem was with the short piece of linkage on the back/top of the latch which connects to the key lock.

So I would assume you had to cut the latches apart and glue them back together when you rebuilt your jy latches? I know the grease becomes hard in there most often and the dirt, along w/sand in your case, prevents them from working smoothly.

I haven't been able to find a thread on rebuilding/cleaning these latches but did find a pic of the greasy/dirty latch cut open.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...8/#post9903621

And if you look at the link/photo in post #10 by V.R you can see the actual actuator motor w/gearing. Since my right/rear door actuator just makes a spinning noise I would assume these nylon gears are stripped and may not even be worth trying to take apart.

Depressing to read in older posts just 1-2 years ago how common aftermarket latches/actuators were to find and now they're nowhere to be found. Exception is just for universal actuators which takes some alterations and the latch itself must be working correctly.

Believe as aftermarket companies quit manufacturing these latches/actuators the dealers jumped their prices for Mopar ones about $30-$40+. Know I paid about $85 for a drivers side front Mopar actuator/latch 2-3 years ago and now it's $125 at the dealer.

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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
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Unread 02-19-2013, 11:06 AM   #17
Smokey1r
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Connect the key lock then door button levers first, they are a pain in the butt being somewhat behind the window guide but i used a flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers to get them to lock on the rods, no need to tear anything else apart, just a little dexterity and patience and its in!!!
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Unread 02-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #18
dnuccio
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You can check actuators in the junkyard by using a drill battery. Reverse the polarity to test both functions (lock/unlock)
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Unread 02-19-2013, 04:53 PM   #19
minimika2008
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Thanks guys. havent got around to doing mine yet...been busy. Now its calling for 6-8 inches of snow by morning...so im tackling it friday! I just read, and accidentally posted in someone elses thread and im betting mine are real cruddy inside...it would seem typical of my jeep haha...ill take pics on friday so you guys can see..and hopefully i get a fix!!!
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Unread 02-19-2013, 07:27 PM   #20
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
You can check actuators in the junkyard by using a drill battery. Reverse the polarity to test both functions (lock/unlock)
Great idea/tip dnuccio, thanks! I thought about taking my 12v lawn tractor battery in a bucket to test the jy actuators which would be a pain. But since I'll be taking my Dewalt electric drill anyhow to remove screws it will be a whole to easier to test w/the drill battery and some jumpers wires.

Good luck minimika and the winter has moved back in here with a vengeance too. I can take the cold but would rather not work on my ZJ when it's real cold w/high-winds.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 03:22 PM   #21
atikovi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantheheeler View Post
These are the ones i bought. Bought 4 an did all the doors but the hatch so I hopefully won't ever have to worry about it again.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230780411788?redirect=mobile
The right front one in my '94 isn't working so I just started checking into it and at least in my truck, the lock motor is built into the door latch itself so those ebay actuators won't work.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 04:53 PM   #22
Darkrocker
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I had to replace my front passenger actuator for the same reason, it really isn't that hard. Try and look around on ebay for some used ones, I got mine for $29 with shipping. It worked great, never had any problems. Just to future proof it you might want to take it apart and clean out/replace the old grease before installing. Doing that should ensure it works for a long time. Also it's my understanding that each door technically has it's own specific actuator. But I did notice I was able to use a rear passenger actuator in the front passenger door. The only difference is the rear door doesn't have a key lock so the actuator doesn't have the rod/clip to unlock the door with a key when installed in the front. So basically front/rear actuators are interchangeable if they're on the same side. However if you use one from the rear in the front you'll lose the ability to unlock that door with a key.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #23
atikovi
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I can get one at the dealer for $78 but since I'll be selling it soon I'll check on Ebay first.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 05:14 PM   #24
gmtech22
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I replaced both of my passenger side actuators with some universal ones from crutchfield. They look like the ones posted earlier in this thread and they work better than the factory ones do once you get them installed and adjusted correctly. Can't beat it for $8 a piece. They work on reverse polarity just as the factory ones do so there is no extra wiring involved
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