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Unread 07-14-2009, 04:07 PM   #31
hitchhikingmike
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Great write up! Thanks for the information.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my '95 ZJ hinges right now. Just finished cutting the bottom pin in half and got it out.

I got my replacement pins at NAPA auto.

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Unread 07-14-2009, 04:35 PM   #32
318jeepcherokee
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did my'n a little while ago... to keep the top pin in a just put a bit of weld on the top and it works good..to replace or remove the pin just knock the weld off the pin.
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Unread 07-14-2009, 05:36 PM   #33
hitchhikingmike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 318jeepcherokee View Post
did my'n a little while ago... to keep the top pin in a just put a bit of weld on the top and it works good..to replace or remove the pin just knock the weld off the pin.
Actually I was thinking. For the top pin I'm just going to fight a tight fitting washer up on the top and then put some JB weld on it. That the pin can still be removed. (Lord forbid I would have to do this again)
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Unread 08-03-2009, 10:04 AM   #34
hatchmt
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Thanks for the write-up. I replaced my hinge pins last week using the c-clips to hold them in, and I couldn't be happier. It's like I have a new door.
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Unread 08-05-2009, 04:18 PM   #35
harrys98zj
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Hatchmt, I have a 98 ZJ also that I want to replace the pins on both driver and passanger doors. Can you use both pins that come in the pack per door, or do I have to get two packs to repair one door?
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Unread 03-21-2010, 10:57 AM   #36
242forme
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I just did this today on my '96 ZJ. Door opens & closes like it was new!!

Thanks to Vestjam's original post I got motivated to do it, and am really glad I did. The hardest part was cutting the old pins to get then out.

I used Motormite/Help! part 38423 for the top hinge 'cause it has the c-clip

For the bottom, I used NAPA part no. 6751594 - w/o c-clip
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Unread 03-21-2010, 01:44 PM   #37
Bekim
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Thanx guys for the write up! Good job, Im on my way to home depot to buy a dremel (always wanted one)!!

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Unread 04-07-2010, 09:38 PM   #38
zj33
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Thank you for this write up.
Installed the 2 pins on my drivers side door a few hours ago. With this writeup I had the door off in 10 minutes, 20 minutes to dremel the 2 pins, 5 to install new bushings and seat the new pins, and 10 to reinstall.
total with wife interuptions was a bit over an hour.

Thank you for this post.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 10:04 PM   #39
rooster51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FortCollinsZJ View Post
Nice writeup. I was going to do this, but Nappa said they couldnt get any pins for me. I guess I'll be going to Advance.
I got my pins and bushings from napa a week ago, still not motivated enough to replace them yet. Your napa guy might be a dork.
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Unread 05-06-2010, 06:22 PM   #40
JohnnyV
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I just did my '95 ZJ drivers side hinges this afternoon. It took about an hour or so. Closes like dang new and very solid... thanks for all the info.

Here's some heads up advice.

The torx needed to undo the electrical connector is a 25mm torx. It works well if you have a short 25mm torx bit as that can be used with a small 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket. Try not to use a pliers to turn the torx bit as the wires plastic coating is easily cut open. Ask me how I know!

The electrical connector is difficult to slide off. Use a fairly large screwdriver to pry it off carefully. Take your time and pry all sides a little at a time.

I used a Sears "Cut and Sand" Dremel accessory kit. About $12.00 for an assortment of bits and things. It comes with two 1-1/4" cutter disks and a container of smaller cutter disks. I used the big disks.

As mentioned cut the pins on an angle as there's really only one way to cut the pins anyway. Each pin takes about a minute to cut through.

Only one pin from the Motormite/Help! 38423 part can be used (the top) as the other pin is too short and bushings are too small for the bottom hinge. The top hinge uses two different sized bushings. This threw me off a little until I checked the other bushings and notice there was a lone bigger one.

For the bottom, I used NAPA part no. 6751594 - w/o c-clip. Don't worry about this coming out. I hammered it in and it's solid and it's in there for another 200,000+ miles.

As an aside I was at a Jeep body shop last year with a buddy of mine. When the body shop owner saw my drivers door sagging he gave me a quick estimate... he said he'd have to replace the whole door for about $700. I knew the fix was under $10.00 but I didn't even flinch. I told him I'd think about it. I got the hell out of there.
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Unread 11-15-2010, 06:53 AM   #41
Nurburgringer
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FYI - I replaced the pins and bushings on my '98 5.9's driver's door in 2007 using the doorman kit on the 1st page of this thread, and the bushings disintegrated shortly thereafter (3 years, but only drive the Jeep over the winter so really not that many open/shut cycles).
Both 'top' (brass?) bushings separated at the bushing flange allowing the bushing part to fall down, and the door to sag again.


Yesterday I installed these (only use the longer pin so need 2 per door):
Amazon.com: Dorman HELP! 38423 Door Hinge Pin and Bushing Kit: Automotive: Reviews, Prices & more

I put a coating of never-seize on the pins and bushings this time. Pretty sure last time I used some grease but obviously there was binding/twisting going on.

Hopefully the new ones will last longer. It's much easier to replace the replacement pins (no cutting only a few whacks with a mallet), but still a PITA to take the door off...
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Unread 11-30-2010, 12:26 PM   #42
ssands85
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I reaplaced mine about a month ago, and I have to say my bottom pin worked its way out about two weeks after I did so I had to pull the door off and pound it back in, then I took washers and welded them to the end of the pin. I guess most of you guys dont have acces to an air compressor because it was way easier to grind the end off the pin with a 90 degree air grinder, and an inch or inch and a half grinding disk. All told it probably took more time for me to get the electrical connection off and take the door off and set it down than it did to grind the pins off.
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Unread 11-30-2010, 02:45 PM   #43
friction_jack
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@Nurburgringer - This is all I've ever found outside of cutting off the hinge with the rollers and welding a functioning one on:

--

FROM: Grand Cherokee Problems - CarSpace Automotive Forums
cheap & easy fix for door hinge rollers by wol May 20, 2003 (9:01 am)

The front door hinges on my '97 GCV8 have two little capstan rollers that click past the detent spring. (This is to hold the doors open on inclines) In spite of regular maintenance, these rollers get stiff and creaky.

Recently, one of the rollers shattered when I opened the door, scattering small ball-bearings. The sharp edge of the capstan post soon began to cut into the detent spring and made an 'orrible grating noise on opening the door.

I figured that it was time to fit a new hinge, but Jeep hinges are welded on the door side and bolted only onto the frame side. The rollers are on the door side, making a weld inevitable. The dealer told me that it might cost hundreds to fix. The hinge is only $50, but there is cutting, welding and repainting. (And inevitably, rusting!)

The fix is to go down to the hardware store and buy a "nylon spacer" that is about the same outside diameter as the original roller. 59 cents in Home Depot.

Before starting, check the hinge detente spring. If it is badly chewed up, this fix might not work for you. If it is just a little chewed up, use a fine file or abrasive to ease off any burrs.

Using a drill or dremel with a conical grinding (or abrasive head) ream out the inside diameter of the spacer from both sides until it _just_ sits on the head of the capstan post.

By using a conical grinding head, you'll leave a slight bulge inside the nylon spacer which is a tad smaller than the diameter of the capstan.
(The inside has an hourglass shape.)

Grease the capstan post and sit the nylon roller on the top.

Give the roller one sharp rap with a hard plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer. The roller should pop permanently onto the post. If it doesn't, clean it up and ream it out a bit more, but not so much that it won't stay on the post.

If you get the inside diameter of the roller just right, it should rotate freely but stay on the post. Even if it doesn't rotate freely, it won't matter (read on).

Grease the hinge well with an appropriate hinge lube. I use a grey high-flashpoint lithium grease which seems to hold the creaking at bay between services.

The resulting roller works perfectly and is actually quieter than the original. If it doesn't rotate, it just wears down slightly where it contacts the spring, and you might have to replace it again later. It won't damage or abrade the spring. Mine has lasted well for 8 months.

It's important to pick a spacer made of the hard, slick nylon that is typically used as an axle spacer on small cart axles. That kind of plastic is self-lubricating and hard wearing. They come in a variety of diameters and lengths - i didn't need to cut it for length.

I hope this tip helps someone else save a few bucks on hinge work.

Last edited by friction_jack; 11-30-2010 at 02:49 PM.. Reason: referencing context
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Unread 11-30-2010, 02:56 PM   #44
sadass
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Thanks! Its my next project . Now I know the help products part # 38422 at advanced will work. or maybe not, I just crawled this so I can read what every one else posted about. where to go which part number to use.
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Unread 11-30-2010, 03:19 PM   #45
Nurburgringer
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[QUOTE=friction_jack;10537510]@Nurburgringer - This is all I've ever found outside of cutting off the hinge with the rollers and welding a functioning one on:

Jack - thanks!
I packed some never-seize into the rollers when I re-did the hinges a few weeks ago and haven't heard any noise from them since, but that's a cool idea to replace them when they get noisy and/or fall apart.
cheers!
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5.9 wisdom by Homer Simpson:
"A 5.9 is not a weapon it's a tool, like a hammer or a screwdriver or an alligator."
"this 5.9 Grand Cherokee has a hold on me. I feel this incredible surge of power, like God must feel when He’s driving a 5.9."
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