F4D, I just finished putting on a new coil AND a new camshaft position sensor. Neither one helped. I have now changed the Crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil, PCM and the BCM. I have grounded out the purple/yellow wire. I don't know what else to do. Any more input from anyone?
Luckduck, thanks for the input. Maybe we could chain them bumper to bumper and find the deepest lake.
Did you troubleshoot the auto shutdown relay circuit to see if there's a problem there? I'd have to look at the wiring diagram, but it memory serves, it's supposed to kill the injectors, fuel pump, and coil. You do have a weird scenario with no spark and a continually running fuel pump but I'd still check it.
stealerships have to pay for their overhead somehow, right? lol ...kinda off topic but my crankshaft sensor was out and the jeep wouldnt start and the quote they gave me with labor was $300 ....friends dad is a mechanic and he got me the part with installation for $20...id say get it from somewhere else
Kolak, I am trying to troubleshoot the ASD Relay circuit now. I have not given in to taking it to a shop just yet. It may be my stubornness, or stupidity - I don't know, but I still think I can figure this out.
There is a DK GRN/ORG wire that pretty much runs from the PCM to the ASD and then to many sensors and ignition parts. When checking this wire, it reads 5.6 Ohms when referenced to the negative battery post. When I disconnect both O2 Sensors, it opens the circuit (it will only do it when both O2's are disconnected). Is this a normal condition? Are the sensors shorting out?
Also, this same DK GRN/ORG wire is connected to each fuel injector. When the connector is connected to the injectors, the GRN/ORG wire ohms out to the block at 2.7 ohms. The other wire (driver?) ohms out at 14.7. When I disconnect the connector from the injector, the driver wire opens the circuit. So are the injectors shorting out?
Testing the O2 sensors again, I have found that if I disconnect the connector, when I Ohm the BLK/TAN wire and the DR GRN/ORG wire together I get 5.0 Ohms. Could my O2 sensors be shorted out due to an extremely rich mixture produced by the starting fluid when I first tried starting this engine? Because at first the engine tried to start, then all of a sudden there was no more spark.
I'd have to poke around in the factory service manual and look at the ASD circuit and troubleshooting section, but did you try starting up the Jeep with the O2 sensors disconnected? It doesn't require they be plugged in to operate in open loop mode.
I did try the grounded screws in the PCM. Unfortunately that is not the problem here.
I did not try to start the jeep with the O2 sensors unplugged. What I am doing now is I have all of the spark plugs out because sometimes it will load up on fuel when testing things and I have to remove the plugs to pump out all the gasoline. So to test the ignition, I have a test light on the coil connector to look for voltage to the coil.
I tested the voltage coming from the keyswitch to the BCM and it checks out good.
I did notice that when I unplug C3 (Grey Plug) on the PCM and then reconnect it, I get the test light to light up for an instant and the ASD relay will click. But the light just flashes and goes back off (not the 3 second that it should stay lit).
There is an orange wire that goes to the PDC, PCM, BCM, ASD Relay, A/C Clutch Relay and a few other componants. When I attach a test light to the + side of the battery and probe this orange wire (with the PCM unhooked with all three connectors) with the key off it lights the test light. When I clip the test light to the - side of the battery and turn the key on, the test light lights. Does this mean the orange wire is grounded somewhere? I would think so, but I would also think that it would blow a fuse. It just doesn't make sense that this circuit would light up with both the positive and negative sides of the battery. The fuse that goes with this circuit is in the PDC. I can do the same test on this fuse. The fuse is a 15 amp fuse, one of the small ones and as you are looking at the PDC from the passenger side of the vehicle, looking over the fender, it's the lower left small fuse.
I need to ask a question I Bought 2 new PCMs and they both don't work right I bought a stranded motor production PCM and a Chrysler PCM with the most up to date software they both don't work I put old one in it works okay like its meant to but the voltage regulator on its way out the door WTF wrong with this two PCM? I got 94 ZJ 5.2 there both pre-programmed dealership ship says it needs more programming on top of whats on there?
I thought i remembered you messing with the PCM...So now i know where the Mopar PCM came from.
Where did the stranded (excellent Freudian slip BTW) motor one come from?
And if they are reman, you should have a warranty.
How do you know it's the voltage regulator?
the mopar PCM has somthing wrong with it sounds like a semi with extreme vibration just as the standard motor production one both are having a huge problem I put the old on back in its fine for now, however the other 2 are having something really wrong I think I was sold a 4.0 unit for my 5.2 apparently its a very common thing to happen getting 4.0 unit sent out by mistake