The Definitive Injector Swap HOW TO - Page 28 - JeepForum.com

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post #406 of 675 Old 03-04-2013, 07:09 PM
Uniblurb
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Originally Posted by Primordial View Post
Well I returned the 703s I paid too much for and got two sets of 8 injectors from another junkyard that I get better deals at...one set is of the 710 variety and the other are the blue top 24# injectors out of a 32 valve DOHC Lincoln. The blue tops are the single pintle type but can flow a bit more if I'm not mistaken. Would these be too much for the 4.0 though? With either of them I was thinking about getting a set of injector rebuild kits since some of the pintle caps have seen better shape and I figure why not freshen them up before I drop them in. What are your thoughts? Go with the 710s or the blue tops? Or go with the 710s now and the blue tops later after some mods are done?
Not sure about what the flow rate would figure on specs for the 700-710's (same specs) in using your 39psi system. But when I suggested using the 700-710's on my 96 4.0 49psi ratmonkey shot that idea down as can be seen below. Guess the difference in plugging the specs into the forumula/chart at 49psi the 3.8 lb/hr decrease in flow rate (700-710 - 19.4 lb/hr vs OE 23.2 lb/hr) is just too much of a flow rate decrease.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/i.../#post14183886

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post #407 of 675 Old 03-04-2013, 09:57 PM
Primordial
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I'm not sure on the 710s either...still doing some digging. I did find out some info on the other injectors I picked up though. They are rated at 24 lb/hr at 39.15 psi delta. Apparently (according to Ford) that's the pressure they rate all their injectors at. So it looks like the blue tops might provide a little more room as I start to add other goodies and push the limits of the stock injectors. I don't think it would hurt anything to go ahead and run them now, but I just won't get the full effect if you will until later. Now I just need to pick up some rebuild kits.
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post #408 of 675 Old 03-05-2013, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Primordial View Post
I'm not sure on the 710s either...still doing some digging. I did find out some info on the other injectors I picked up though. They are rated at 24 lb/hr at339.15 psi delta. Apparently (according to Ford) that's the pressure they rate all their injectors at. So it looks like the blue tops might provide a little more room as I start to add other goodies and push the limits of the stock injectors. I don't think it would hurt anything to go ahead and run them now, but I just won't get the full effect if you will until later. Now I just need to pick up some rebuild kits.
Ok well there is a guy up the street from me with a 5.9. He's got the M1 intake, exhaust, upgraded ignition, and K&N or something like that. He also has the 710 injectors but his truck is running rich. You can smell it. It sounds great but you can for sure smell gas. You think the 710's are dumping to much fuel in?
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post #409 of 675 Old 03-05-2013, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Ok well there is a guy up the street from me with a 5.9. He's got the M1 intake, exhaust, upgraded ignition, and K&N or something like that. He also has the 710 injectors but his truck is running rich. You can smell it. It sounds great but you can for sure smell gas. You think the 710's are dumping to much fuel in?
Possibly. Were the injectors installed right from the junkyard or were they cleaned and rebuilt? It sounds like what happened on a TJ I used to have that had a leaky injector. It ran great but had so much fuel coming out the exhaust manifold got so hot it cracked.
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post #410 of 675 Old 03-05-2013, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Primordial View Post
Possibly. Were the injectors installed right from the junkyard or were they cleaned and rebuilt? It sounds like what happened on a TJ I used to have that had a leaky injector. It ran great but had so much fuel coming out the exhaust manifold got so hot it cracked.
I'm not sure but you would have to be pretty careless to toss them in right out of the yard. His pipe is covered with black soot.
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post #411 of 675 Old 03-05-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Ok well there is a guy up the street from me with a 5.9. He's got the M1 intake, exhaust, upgraded ignition, and K&N or something like that. He also has the 710 injectors but his truck is running rich. You can smell it. It sounds great but you can for sure smell gas. You think the 710's are dumping to much fuel in?
He must be having some other type of problem Polka since the 710's should be running too lean instead of running rich or dumping too much fuel in. On the OE Seimen's 778's in the 98 5.9 they are rated at 23.7 lbhr @ 49psi while the 710's are only rated at 19.4 lbhr @ 49psi. As already mentioned this is a 3.8 lbhr decrease in flow rate which is too low/lean.
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post #412 of 675 Old 03-06-2013, 07:19 AM
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Ok just did the 703 swap on my 93 4.0 last night, idles a lil rough and runs like sh*t driving, running rich also, I saw the post about driving to give the pcm time to "learn" the new injectors. OK not a prob put 30 miles on it today and same running characteristics so far.
Here is my question/problem, Have any of you guys had a hard time starting after the swap, I have to hold the pedal down to get it to start after it sits for about 5 minutes, if I start it let it run and cut it off and start it back immediatly no problems, but after sitting it wont start right up. Any thoughts?
Any help here guys? Update I have put 117 miles on it with no change

93 ZJ, 3.5 RC lift, 31x10.50x15, 3/4 coil spacers, bilstein 5100's, Kolak 2.5 exhaust, 703 injectors, bedliner paint job, clear front lights , Black Magic's on bumper and a pillars
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post #413 of 675 Old 03-06-2013, 12:41 PM
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Any help here guys? Update I have put 117 miles on it with no change
Not sure if the 93 ECU learns the same as the 96 PCM for the 703's. But have you tried removing the neg battery cable again, turn the key clear over to the right for 30 secs or leave it disconnected overnight, then reconnect the battery cable?

Have you done a fuel pressure test because it sounds like your fuel pressure is bleeding off/back since it won't start back up right away? Not sure what the spec is for the 93 4.0 39psi ZJ system but for the 93 4.0 39spi XJ it shouldn't bleed off more than 20psi after the engine is shut down for 30 min. Indicator the check valve in the top of the fuel pump assembly is bad if it does unless you have a leak somewhere else.

Did you happen to remove the tube going from the fuel pressure regulator on the rail to the intake when replacing the injectors and is it still in good shape? Know there's also 3-rings (OE-Package, Regulator O-ring, #4418903) on your fuel pressure regulator (OE #53030001, 93 4.0) where it attaches to the rail. Maybe spray some carb cleaner, or starting fluid when engines cold, on this area to see if your engine rpms pick up if it's leaking/sucking in air.

Just some suggestions and good luck.
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post #414 of 675 Old 03-10-2013, 07:24 PM
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Figured out the problem one of the.703s was bad wouldn't close kept leaking fuel changed it out for a new one and it runs like a dream now smooth idle and driving

93 ZJ, 3.5 RC lift, 31x10.50x15, 3/4 coil spacers, bilstein 5100's, Kolak 2.5 exhaust, 703 injectors, bedliner paint job, clear front lights , Black Magic's on bumper and a pillars
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post #415 of 675 Old 03-20-2013, 11:44 AM
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I found these on ebay and they appear to be new Bosch 0280155703 @ $24.95 each (seems like good price for new)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330657234572...84.m1423.l2649

The part number reads on the casting 05277739AB , not just 05277739A. Does anyone know if they are both equivalent to the Bosch 0280155703? I found the P/N 05277739A posted on this thread as an equivalent, I just wasn't sure what the B at the end means.

I have 96 ZJ w/4.0L
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post #416 of 675 Old 03-20-2013, 12:08 PM
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Add me to the confirmed list for 703s on a 95 5.2, the swap has been working great for me so far

Reliability is relative
R.I.P. Ratmonkey
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post #417 of 675 Old 03-20-2013, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Add me to the confirmed list for 703s on a 95 5.2, the swap has been working great for me so far
Added
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post #418 of 675 Old 03-20-2013, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldZJdog95018 View Post
I found these on ebay and they appear to be new Bosch 0280155703 @ $24.95 each (seems like good price for new)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330657234572...84.m1423.l2649

The part number reads on the casting 05277739AB , not just 05277739A. Does anyone know if they are both equivalent to the Bosch 0280155703? I found the P/N 05277739A posted on this thread as an equivalent, I just wasn't sure what the B at the end means.

I have 96 ZJ w/4.0L
As far as I could see from searching there is no difference. Odds are the A/AB are just minor revisions or could identify manufacturing process or something else, they are the same injector if they have the same number.
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post #419 of 675 Old 03-21-2013, 10:28 AM
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Add me to the confirmed list for 703's on a 96 5.2. The swap has worked perfectly for me right "out of the gate".

I own a 1996 ZJ Grand Cherokee 5.2. I followed this forum in replacing my stock injectors with the Bosch 0280155703 just yesterday. Found a vendor on eBay offering rebuilt 703 injectors in a set of six (6) and sent him a message asking for a set of eight (8) which he immediately offered back online. I paid about $174 delivered for the set. I had positive results immediately from the installation. Even from starting the engine idled more smoothly. So far I have not had the impression of any more power or even more responsiveness but rather just much greater smoothness, virtually as though the engine is brand new (at 170K miles!). I have yet to test mileage but I fully expect an improvement.

The installation also offered me an opportunity to clean out the grunge that had permeated the throttle body butterflies and their bores. Surprising amount of yuck to be found there which can't help mileage either.

I used Q-tips soaked in carburetor cleaner to clean out the residue in the intake manifold bores where the injectors are inserted. That worked pretty well but I had a huge panic attack when I accidentally dropped one into the open bore. Fortunately there was enough still showing from inside the manifold that I could extract it with tweezers but I shudder to think what would have been the course of action otherwise!

The biggest hint I can think of for the re-installation of the injector clips is to realize you can rotate the injectors around at least 90 degrees and install the retaining clips on the backside before rotating them forward into position. Makes a huge difference in overall ease of installation. Other tips. I simply used 3-In-1 oil on the seals which seemed to work perfectly well and was super easy to dispense. The biggest difficulty with this whole installation involves all the cleaning up of the accumulated crud and debris that surrounds the injectors and particularly their recepticles in the intake manifold. I used rags and WD40 to get a lot of the area clean then went back with a vacuum cleaner to suck up as much loose stuff as possible. I kept the vacuum cleaner at a standby and used it several times during the course of the installation to make sure no excessive debris fell into the open bores once the injectors had been removed.

One of the first things I did when I started work on the project was to remove the fuel pump relay then I ran the engine for several crank over's in order to burn off pressure in the fuel rail. I should have continued that for about 15-20 seconds perhaps but my battery was starting to crank down. The more you "burn off" in this fashion the less that dumps out when you dislodge the injectors from the fuel rail. I also used the Schraeder pressure valve to help reduce fuel in fuel rail as well.

The whole project lasted about 5 hours overall during which I had the battery disconnected and the ignition switch turned on. After completing the installation I didn't wait overnight but rather reconnected the battery and started the Jeep. It worked perfectly. The point is that I did not keep the battery or car's electrical system disconnected overnight nor did I apparently need to do so. Evidently a minimum of five (5) hours of disconnect time was all that was required for my vehicle to internally reset whatever was needed.

Thanks to all for the guidance and assistance for this project. I'm completely pleased with the result and recommend others to take on the project if they have the confidence in their own mechanical skills to do so.
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post #420 of 675 Old 03-21-2013, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Very descriptive post! I added you.

We only need 1 more success to confirm '95 5.2 w/703s; and 2 more successes to confirm the 5.9. Every other combo is confirmed!

It all makes you wonder why they didn't use 4-holes in the first place lol
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