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Unread 08-17-2013, 03:01 PM   #31
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Trust me, I have full on Death Wobble. At around 40mph, if I hit a seam in the road, it feels like the hole Jeep is going to shake into pieces. Well at least I only have a few more things to change. The drag link, steering box and control arm bushings.
I seem to think you inadvertently spelled seam wrong. Sounds the same, but two different words...

"Seems seams cause problems for your jeep." ~Wifey when I read this to her...

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Unread 08-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #32
Pugulis
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So an update. I pulled off one of the control arms and the bushings were toast. I decided to replace both lower control arms. The bushings alone would have cost 40 bucks. But brand new arms with bushings cost 50. It was a no brainer to go with the new arms. And now my DW is almost completely gone. I'm going to replace the uppers next and then take it in for an alignment. I think this should solve the problem (knock on wood).
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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:42 PM   #33
Pugulis
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Here's the list. I replaced ball joints, control arms, track bar, drag link, passenger wheel bearing, tie rod end (and the long tube). Finally I've replaced the steering box because when I took it to get an alignment, they couldn't do it because of to much play. I still have DW!! I'm lost. Is there something I'm missing?
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Unread 09-22-2013, 06:39 AM   #34
blueribb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Here's the list. I replaced ball joints, control arms, track bar, drag link, passenger wheel bearing, tie rod end (and the long tube). Finally I've replaced the steering box because when I took it to get an alignment, they couldn't do it because of to much play. I still have DW!! I'm lost. Is there something I'm missing?
How about the steering damper (looks like a shock absorber) ?
Did they replace all bushings associated with the track bar ?
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Unread 09-22-2013, 09:31 AM   #35
newfieZJ
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Did you get the wheel alignment after the new box ? I tinkered once and brought on DW , bad castor can bring it on .

When you installed your BB , what did you do for your shocks ? Don't over look a bad shock , it's the first line of defense against road imperfections . Had DW in my wife's 5.9 , found 4 leaking shocks , replaced all 4 and nothing came back since , nothing else was bad . Does the shock match the application ? Very important . Lifespan of a stock shock for a 2" BB is 6 months IMO . Had an issue on a 3500 Ram . Replaced everything !!! Still had it . Shocks I bought were for stock but had the spacer . Replace just the front with proper shocks for the 2" increase and voila , DW gone . I gotta mention my experience because you are running outta things to replace .

Sway bar frame bushings . Not a cause but in a way , a contributor to the control of the axle . They wear out fast and replacing them is just $10 for the front . Well worth the $10 spent .

Whever pulling the control arms , I mark the castor adjustment . I always put it back to the marks . This should get castor very close , at least , close enough not to get DW . I never have an issue doing it this way and done it lots . Most times , it drives straight after .
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Unread 09-22-2013, 11:04 AM   #36
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x3 for tires
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Unread 09-22-2013, 12:50 PM   #37
Pugulis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueribb View Post
How about the steering damper (looks like a shock absorber) ?
Did they replace all bushings associated with the track bar ?
Done and done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by newfieZJ View Post
Did you get the wheel alignment after the new box ? I tinkered once and brought on DW , bad castor can bring it on .

When you installed your BB , what did you do for your shocks ? Don't over look a bad shock , it's the first line of defense against road imperfections . Had DW in my wife's 5.9 , found 4 leaking shocks , replaced all 4 and nothing came back since , nothing else was bad . Does the shock match the application ? Very important . Lifespan of a stock shock for a 2" BB is 6 months IMO . Had an issue on a 3500 Ram . Replaced everything !!! Still had it . Shocks I bought were for stock but had the spacer . Replace just the front with proper shocks for the 2" increase and voila , DW gone . I gotta mention my experience because you are running outta things to replace .

Sway bar frame bushings . Not a cause but in a way , a contributor to the control of the axle . They wear out fast and replacing them is just $10 for the front . Well worth the $10 spent .

Whever pulling the control arms , I mark the castor adjustment . I always put it back to the marks . This should get castor very close , at least , close enough not to get DW . I never have an issue doing it this way and done it lots . Most times , it drives straight after .
I've done the bounce test on the shocks and they seem fine. But I'll double check because I didn't replace them and it's been 2 years.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 02:16 PM   #38
cwick13
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Im sorry... but with everthing you said Youve replaced as a 10 yr Chrysler jeep tech/ suspension and chassis specialist.. It sounds to me like you need to check your caster.. If its below 6.9 on either side you will get the wibbles with a tire 10.50 or wider... Especially if your running a factory stabilizer
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Unread 09-22-2013, 03:16 PM   #39
newfieZJ
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I've yet to 6.9* caster on any jeep I own . Lifted and 6.9 is not possible without being too far off on the pinion angle . I think at 4.5" lift I was running a hair over 5 on 12.5 wide tires and no DW , shimmy or any issues . 6.9 has never been attainable , even at stock height .

OP , my shocks were brand new , but , not for the 2" lift . Worked great for 6 months , then it hit . Luckily for me , the great techs at my local dealer threw part after part till it was all new , including the steering gear and control arms . I installed new shocks after they had their go and fixed it .
More important was are the shocks for a 2" BB lift ? Bounce test is not really a good way to test shocks , other than by letting the bottom mounting go and testing manually/visually , I don't have a better way either . 2 yrs old should be fine if the correct shock and it hasn't failed
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Unread 09-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #40
Pugulis
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I'm thinking that the steering box I got is defective.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 03:24 PM   #41
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Based on ????
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Unread 09-22-2013, 04:33 PM   #42
Pugulis
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After replacing everything else I took it in to have the alignment. They said they couldn't do it because the steering box had to much play in it. So I replaced it and it doesn't feel any different.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 04:42 PM   #43
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I'm running 5.3 degrees caster because the CV driveshaft has a pinion angle near zero with the stock control arms. No sign of death wobble, even no bumpsteer. Like a rock, using a Dana stock trackbar and an ubercheap steering stablizer from rockauto.
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Unread 12-17-2013, 08:55 PM   #44
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Any updates on progress?
Thank you,
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Unread 12-18-2013, 12:21 AM   #45
Pugulis
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Any updates on progress?
Thank you,
I bought a new steering box and it didn't feel any different. So I returned it and tightened up the old one. I was then able to go at least 55 without an issue. But over that and any bump would cause it. At least that's what I thought until I noticed that it happened when I was braking at any speed above 45 and hitting a rough patch or bump in the road. I checked the front brakes and noticed the passenger side was worn considerably more than the drivers side. I got a good deal on rotors and pads, so I replaced both front rotors and the pads. I've now had it up to 60 without an issue. I'm afraid to go any faster. The last thing I want to do is have it happen while doing 70 with snow and ice around. I still may pick up a new steering box. I think I just got a bad one from Autozone.
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