Death Wobble won't go away - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 01:07 PM
JeepNicholson
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Well I've gotten to the point where I can at least get it up to 55mph. But if I hit a big enough bump, it comes back. Any other suggestions? Will a bad alignment really cause DW? I don't want to spend money on another alignment if it won't fix the problem.
Yes, I recently replaced front DS bearing, ball joint, u joints, all 4 tires, all 4 shocks, and control arms, and still had wobble until I got the alignment afterward.
Now it's smooth.

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post #17 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Just to update. I also just put a larger bolt in the track bar. When I first replaced the track bar, the hole didn't look oblong. But on a second check, the rear hole looked slightly elongated up and down and both holes seemed larger than they should. I was able to put a 7/16 bolt in without drilling out the holes. Obviously I had to do it on the bar itself. Now hopefully an alignment will allow me to drive on the highway without biting my lips and holding my breath at every bump in the road.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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post #18 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 06:55 PM
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Just to update. I also just put a larger bolt in the track bar. When I first replaced the track bar, the hole didn't look oblong. But on a second check, the rear hole looked slightly elongated up and down and both holes seemed larger than they should. I was able to put a 7/16 bolt in without drilling out the holes. Obviously I had to do it on the bar itself. Now hopefully an alignment will allow me to drive on the highway without biting my lips and holding my breath at every bump in the road.
Hopefully you used a bolt with the appropriate strength rating!
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post #19 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Yes I did. Specialty bolts like this are easy. As long as you get ones that have that same flange piece, they'll be the same grade (I should say usually). Anyway, it's grade 8. I saw some people upgrade, but all the ones I saw had allen wrench type heads and I didn't want to deal with that.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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post #20 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 08:14 PM
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Yes I did. Specialty bolts like this are easy. As long as you get ones that have that same flange piece, they'll be the same grade (I should say usually). Anyway, it's grade 8. I saw some people upgrade, but all the ones I saw had allen wrench type heads and I didn't want to deal with that.
Yeah, I had to order mine from Fastenal

ZJ FSM
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...Fk&usp=sharing
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post #21 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 08:59 PM
durango-bob
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So have you actually removed one of the control arms and inspected the bushings?
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post #22 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Yes. The metal covers are torn up, but the bushings themselves are fine.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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post #23 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 10:01 PM
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Yes. The metal covers are torn up, but the bushings themselves are fine.
Time for new bushings
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post #24 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNicholson View Post
Time for new bushings
Just empty every pocket, why don't you!

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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post #25 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 10:53 PM
Oldfrog
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Here is what came to mind after reading all of these posts:
1. Tighten the track bar mounting bracket on the driver's side. ( frame). Dont just look at it, put a wrench on it.
2. There are some nuts inside the driver's side fender well. Tighten them.
3. LOOSEN your steering box bolts. One isnt easy to get to... I think you have to remove the track bar mount on the driver's side to get to it, if my memory serves me well. Loosen them a tad, start the engine and rotate your steering wheel side to side a little, to "re-seat" the steering box. Dont get crazy with it...just let it settle in. Then tighten the mounting bolts again. ( and reinstall the track bar mount to the frame).
4. Now, get under it, get a trusted friend to start it and slowly work the steering wheel side to side again. Take a flashlight and look at every thing that moves. Pay attention to what is NOT supposed to move and then take care of it.
5. Swap front and rear tires.
6. Replace the lower control arms, if they are the original ones....no matter what they look like. Inspect the frame mounts for the control arms. Look for cracking. ( same with the frame where the steering box mounts, too)

If you have a lift....tell us about it.

2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
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post #26 of 48 Old 08-16-2013, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Did everything you listed except the steering box thing. That's why I replaced so much stuff. And I'm actually looking at control arms right now. It's up between new arms or just bushings. I'm flipping a coin as I type.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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post #27 of 48 Old 08-17-2013, 12:25 AM
jeepster383
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I fell you're pain. I did everything also and then ended up throwing on a hard Kor steering stabalizer on and it stoped it but evey now and then u can feel it try to death wobble but won't.
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post #28 of 48 Old 08-17-2013, 07:00 AM
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
Did everything you listed except the steering box thing. That's why I replaced so much stuff. And I'm actually looking at control arms right now. It's up between new arms or just bushings. I'm flipping a coin as I type.
I hear ya man, I had to replace all that stuff too

Get your control arms from Rock Auto, they won't kill your wallet and you won't have to deal with the horror of trying to replace bushings
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post #29 of 48 Old 08-17-2013, 12:02 PM
blueribb
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I had the infamous "death wobble" about 2 yrs ago and asked the local dealer to replace the track bar, associated bushings and the steering damper (shock absorber). That fixed it !
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post #30 of 48 Old 08-17-2013, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Yeah, I replaced the track bar. But after searching around, I found a video on youtube where the guy said that 90% of the time DW is caused by bolt hole on the axle (track bar connection point) gets elongated. So I removed the track bar and although the hole didn't look oval, it was larger. So I drilled out the track bar bushing and used a larger bolt.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 265,000 miles and still going strong.
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